NewBie
*Retired*
I was out having fun tonight:
UV LED with throw- Beamshots
- Thread starter NewBie
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
xpitxbullx
Flashlight Enthusiast
Nice beamshots showing the throw. Seem like a lot of light output. Whats the wavelength of the LEDs?
Jeff
Jeff
MaxaBaker
Flashlight Enthusiast
Cool /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif
NewBie
*Retired*
395nm
Icebreak
Flashlight Enthusiast
Aspherically projected. Am I right?
I like learning about this stuff. It appears that other frequencies of the spectrum are present but the photon soup is very heavy in 395nm. Is that a reasonable conclusion, albeit poorly stated?
----------------------
- Jeff
I like learning about this stuff. It appears that other frequencies of the spectrum are present but the photon soup is very heavy in 395nm. Is that a reasonable conclusion, albeit poorly stated?
----------------------
- Jeff
jtice
Flashaholic
what reflector / optic are you useing??
thats just ONE of them , correct? what mA?
thats just ONE of them , correct? what mA?
NewBie
*Retired*
Yup, just one CREE LED, with an aspherical lens, same thing most my throw shots are using.
There is very little output at other spectral frequencies, you can look below the colored targets that glow because of the UV, and see how the fence hardly lights up. Where as in the first two pictures, the incandescent bulb lights up the fence fine.
What you are seeing is glow due to UV, not the other colors lighting things up.
There is very little output at other spectral frequencies, you can look below the colored targets that glow because of the UV, and see how the fence hardly lights up. Where as in the first two pictures, the incandescent bulb lights up the fence fine.
What you are seeing is glow due to UV, not the other colors lighting things up.
nexro
Enlightened
Any pictures of the LED itself? Where can I get these LEDs? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Donovan
Enlightened
Any lights available with this UV LED?
NewBie
*Retired*
Icebreak, I got to thinking more.
The camera is over correcting, since the glow is very bright, so I've tweaked it a bit so you can see how it appears:
Notice the purple of a typical UV.
As far as optics, the Carclo, NX-05, and ones I made, heavily attenuate the UV output (its kinda cool trying, as some of the plastic used glows itself in the UV). I'm using a glass lens here. Reflectors work, but with the CREE parts, the reflectors have to be alot deeper than normal, since the output is more in the center than to the sides (side output is what a reflector collects and projects forward).
The camera is over correcting, since the glow is very bright, so I've tweaked it a bit so you can see how it appears:
Notice the purple of a typical UV.
As far as optics, the Carclo, NX-05, and ones I made, heavily attenuate the UV output (its kinda cool trying, as some of the plastic used glows itself in the UV). I'm using a glass lens here. Reflectors work, but with the CREE parts, the reflectors have to be alot deeper than normal, since the output is more in the center than to the sides (side output is what a reflector collects and projects forward).
Icebreak
Flashlight Enthusiast
Oh, I get it now.
Fantastic.
Fantastic.
NewBie
*Retired*
[ QUOTE ]
Donovan said:
Any lights available with this UV LED?
[/ QUOTE ]
Not yet, hopefully this will change.
Donovan said:
Any lights available with this UV LED?
[/ QUOTE ]
Not yet, hopefully this will change.
3rd_shift
Flashlight Enthusiast
Where can I get these leds.
I want to make/mod and sell a few lights with these.
I want to make/mod and sell a few lights with these.
NewBie
*Retired*
vacuum3d
Enlightened
Newbie,
Are you saying that one of those 5mm UV led with a lens could fluoresce objects 100 feet away? Did you modify the led in any way?
I remember reading one of your posts in which you had a link to some led company that deals with powerful UV leds... something in a $100 range. Could you provide that link again?
thx,
ernest
Are you saying that one of those 5mm UV led with a lens could fluoresce objects 100 feet away? Did you modify the led in any way?
I remember reading one of your posts in which you had a link to some led company that deals with powerful UV leds... something in a $100 range. Could you provide that link again?
thx,
ernest
NewBie
*Retired*
Heck no, not a 5mm LED, this is a CREE LED that is equal to 20-100 5mm UV LEDs depending on the quality of the 5mm UV LED.
These are 10.00 ea distributed by www.ETGTech.com, you'll have to call them. It is a single die part.
With a slight over drive, the CREE will match the +100 dollar LED, http://www.optotech.com/data_sheets/OTLH-0360-UV-10.pdf This Shark LED is a multitude of dies.
These are 10.00 ea distributed by www.ETGTech.com, you'll have to call them. It is a single die part.
With a slight over drive, the CREE will match the +100 dollar LED, http://www.optotech.com/data_sheets/OTLH-0360-UV-10.pdf This Shark LED is a multitude of dies.
IsaacHayes
Flashlight Enthusiast
Glad you finaly pushed this out into CPF with pictures, now maybe it will become more popular!!
Perhaps a mag reflector would work? I'm trying to think of a nice host that would have a meduim sized spot. Throw is cool but a bit more flood would be pratical for inspection purposes. Perhaps 3x of these w/ 20mm IMS reflectors? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BTW, is this a SMT part? Or can you do it by hand. I forgot what they looked like. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Perhaps a mag reflector would work? I'm trying to think of a nice host that would have a meduim sized spot. Throw is cool but a bit more flood would be pratical for inspection purposes. Perhaps 3x of these w/ 20mm IMS reflectors? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BTW, is this a SMT part? Or can you do it by hand. I forgot what they looked like. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Icebreak
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would like to know if the 20mm IMS reflectors would be deep enough considering Newbie's description of such a narrow angle.
Remember he is throwing this with an aspheric lens basically projecting the grid. An ARC AAA 5mm white can be projected 100' that way. A 3W white can easily be projected 100 yds. that way. This is a 1W but I believe Newbie indicates it's more powerful than a normal 1W (Could be that whole 1W/3W discussion?). Maybe some TIROSs would do the trick. Maybe a Frean triple optic. Doubtful it would attain the distance and intensity Newbie is getting but might do pretty well at 30' ?
Cree.com
I spoke with Anna at EGTTech. She said minimum buy was 10 pcs. but the price was now $50.00 so $5.00 a piece. Also, she said they had a free service where they would apply them to a heat sink board. It measures 20mm in diameter, which is a very interesting spec.
Their new number is 310-202-6400
Newbie –
I would like to echo IssacHayes' appreciation of your posting this to CPF. At 5 bucks a piece including heat sinked board it's very tempting.
-------------------
- Jeff
Remember he is throwing this with an aspheric lens basically projecting the grid. An ARC AAA 5mm white can be projected 100' that way. A 3W white can easily be projected 100 yds. that way. This is a 1W but I believe Newbie indicates it's more powerful than a normal 1W (Could be that whole 1W/3W discussion?). Maybe some TIROSs would do the trick. Maybe a Frean triple optic. Doubtful it would attain the distance and intensity Newbie is getting but might do pretty well at 30' ?
Cree.com
I spoke with Anna at EGTTech. She said minimum buy was 10 pcs. but the price was now $50.00 so $5.00 a piece. Also, she said they had a free service where they would apply them to a heat sink board. It measures 20mm in diameter, which is a very interesting spec.
Their new number is 310-202-6400
Newbie –
I would like to echo IssacHayes' appreciation of your posting this to CPF. At 5 bucks a piece including heat sinked board it's very tempting.
-------------------
- Jeff
vacuum3d
Enlightened
Newbie,
This is very interesting. The spec says Forward Voltage = 18.5 to 20. Did you cook up a driver to deliver ~18.5v? Could you suggest anything I can buy that would drive this baby? If so, I'm gonna give EGTTech a call and order some. I remember some time last year, there was some GB on a UV light that had an led looked very much like the CREE led. It was installed in a Pelican PM6 host.
Jeff,
Thanks for the phone number.
ernest
This is very interesting. The spec says Forward Voltage = 18.5 to 20. Did you cook up a driver to deliver ~18.5v? Could you suggest anything I can buy that would drive this baby? If so, I'm gonna give EGTTech a call and order some. I remember some time last year, there was some GB on a UV light that had an led looked very much like the CREE led. It was installed in a Pelican PM6 host.
Jeff,
Thanks for the phone number.
ernest
NewBie
*Retired*
I didn't utilize the Shark LED from OptoTech (that datasheet you looked at), it's too spendy and for under 10% the price, the UV CREE is alot better, especially with it's single die.
In case it is not clear, the CREE UV looks like this:
http://www.cree.com/Products/Lighting/downloads/XLamp7090.pdf
The CREE only takes 3 something volts.
The group buy was for the Shark from OptoTech, not for the CREE from ETGTech.
Wow, nice, the price has dropped:
"I spoke with Anna at EGTTech. She said minimum buy was 10 pcs. but the price was now $50.00 so $5.00 a piece. Also, she said they had a free service where they would apply them to a heat sink board. It measures 20mm in diameter, which is a very interesting spec.
Their new number is 310-202-6400
Newbie –
I would like to echo IssacHayes’ app"
You are welcome, together we can advance the State of the Art much faster than any one person can.
As far as mounting these...
I take to strips of Kapton tape and put it under the power pads on the back side, on the copper sheet. The big isolated center pad, I directly solder to a large slug of very thick copper sheet. I use an ohm meter to assure there are no shorts, before the slug cools much, it is alot easier to heat it back up and adjust, rather than wait until it is cool. Then I solder the wires to each side, after it is mounted. This method will give you *much* better thermal transfer than the SMT board they have.
With these you'll want to utilize a very deep reflector, that looks more like the end of a banana. Acrylic/polycarbonate optics/lenses/windows really attenuate the output. Some of them even glow a bit themselves, under UV. So, I'd recommend reflector and double side coated AR glass (like the UCL stuff).
As far as the power output, these CREE UV are much more efficient. Compared to the OptoTech Shark, these are 4.3 times more efficient. If you push them a tad, to 1.3 Watts, you end up matching the output of the OptoTech Shark when it is at 6 Watts. Bonus? Yeah, the UV CREE is a single die, instead of an array of 50 die, so you can focus and throw it alot better.
In case it is not clear, the CREE UV looks like this:
http://www.cree.com/Products/Lighting/downloads/XLamp7090.pdf
The CREE only takes 3 something volts.
The group buy was for the Shark from OptoTech, not for the CREE from ETGTech.
Wow, nice, the price has dropped:
"I spoke with Anna at EGTTech. She said minimum buy was 10 pcs. but the price was now $50.00 so $5.00 a piece. Also, she said they had a free service where they would apply them to a heat sink board. It measures 20mm in diameter, which is a very interesting spec.
Their new number is 310-202-6400
Newbie –
I would like to echo IssacHayes’ app"
You are welcome, together we can advance the State of the Art much faster than any one person can.
As far as mounting these...
I take to strips of Kapton tape and put it under the power pads on the back side, on the copper sheet. The big isolated center pad, I directly solder to a large slug of very thick copper sheet. I use an ohm meter to assure there are no shorts, before the slug cools much, it is alot easier to heat it back up and adjust, rather than wait until it is cool. Then I solder the wires to each side, after it is mounted. This method will give you *much* better thermal transfer than the SMT board they have.
With these you'll want to utilize a very deep reflector, that looks more like the end of a banana. Acrylic/polycarbonate optics/lenses/windows really attenuate the output. Some of them even glow a bit themselves, under UV. So, I'd recommend reflector and double side coated AR glass (like the UCL stuff).
As far as the power output, these CREE UV are much more efficient. Compared to the OptoTech Shark, these are 4.3 times more efficient. If you push them a tad, to 1.3 Watts, you end up matching the output of the OptoTech Shark when it is at 6 Watts. Bonus? Yeah, the UV CREE is a single die, instead of an array of 50 die, so you can focus and throw it alot better.
