WA-1185 vs WA-1331

[lexina]

Here is how to proceed:
1. Turn off tailcap (but leave the batteries inside the light)
2. Click the switch so it is in on position
3. Set your DMM (Digital Multi Meter) to DC current measurement, be sure that the red test probe is connected to the 10A/20A terminal.
4. Turn DMM on
5. Put black test probe to end of battery adapter, and apply some pressure so that it get good connection where the foremost adapter connects to the switch.
6. Put red test probe to the edge of the light where there is no anodizing, be sure to point the front of the light away from anyones face. I find it best to hold the light between/with my knees so it points toward the floor and I have my hands free for the test probes.
7. If everything is done properly the light should now light up and you should be able to read off the current from the DMM.

You should get ca. 3.3A for the WA1185 setup and 2A for the WA1331 setup.

:thanks: , MSI. I have been searching through the treads looking for clear instructions on how to measure current through a light.

 

[LuxLuthor]

FM, as far as I understand this method of measuring the current while keeping the batteries in the light with switch on, and making the circuit by touching the black lead to bottom of battery, and red lead to edge of flashlight tube (while bottom cap is off) gives the reading with the light shining.

Making contact with the Digital MultiMeter makes the contact/circuit and the light comes on and gives the amp readings I posted above.

I tested the Volts with the batteries outside of the light.

 

[fivemega]

What I meant was measuring voltage at the bulb.
Remove head and switch, run a wire from upper spring cup (top of spring) to out.
Reinstal the switch, bulb, battery adapters and tail cap but no head.
Make sure wire in not touching anything and connect red lead of volt meter to wire and black lead to bulb holder ring then switch the light on.
Now you can read forwarded voltage AT THE BULB
You should read at least 10.5 volt. If not, switch has excessive resistance.

 

[MSI]

If you know the current, then you know the voltage at the bulb as well, so there is no need to measure the voltage at the bulb, you only need to measure the current. However, you will not get the resitance of the tailcap and tailcap spring included if you measure the current. I don't know how much resistance those add.
Using the formula found here and using LuxLuthors numbers, you arrive at the following numbers:

1300L: V=10.80V -> 1233 bulb lumens

700L: V=10.62V -> 760 bulb lumens

You should have no problem telling the difference, but it may be the smaller filament of the 1331 that tricks you to think it is brighter than what it really is.

 

[MSI]

This is where I get lost. Very baffled am I. . . :thinking:

Unless you haven't noticed, a test probe has two ends. :nana:

 

[MSI]

At 25-50 feet I can transpose the 1331 beam on top of the 1185 focussed hotspot, and it slightly "overpowers" it. It's hard to tell if that is a function of brightness or whiteness.

Light is additive, what that means is that when you shine two lights at the same spot it will be brighter than if you only shine one light at the spot. That you can see the 1331 beam inside the 1185 beam therefore doesn't mean it overpowers it, it only means more light is shone onto the same spot.

Btw, measuring the resting voltage of batteries/battery adapters doesn't tell you anything about how the batteries will perform in the light, it will only tell you if you have connected the batteries correctly in the adapters and if there is a dead cell in there.

 

[ZeissOEM2]

edit

 

[LuxLuthor]

I'll wait for fog....but I'm still saying that 15 independent people looking at both lights one at a time, side by side, say at 50, 100, 200, 300 meters shining at various walls, trees, side of homes show no significant difference, with half choosing the 700L 1331 light as slightly brighter. That is pretty conclusive as far as I am concerned.

PS) They all want to know where they can get one of the 700L lights!