Wave of Haiku High CRI

ploink

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Mar 16, 2017
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See the first post by Don in this thread for ordering information....McGizmo's are great!

Just sent an email. Any idea what his backlog is like on those / fulfillment time?

Thanks. Such a friendly forum!
 

McGizmo

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does mcgizmo add tritium himself or do i have to send it to someone else after?

I was one of the first if not the first to put tritium in a light so I have some lights now that have been around the sun with their tritium a number of trips. I have some PD lights that have tritium in the piston tails that are now pretty dim due to the 12 year half life and I decided not to continue installing the tritium myself in the lights as I want the lights to last longer than the tritium will remain bright. I personally have a couple Mules that I have installed trits on the MCPCB next to the LED but I can easily replace them down the road if I want. I leave it to the user to add trits on their own.
 

chotu

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I was one of the first if not the first to put tritium in a light so I have some lights now that have been around the sun with their tritium a number of trips. I have some PD lights that have tritium in the piston tails that are now pretty dim due to the 12 year half life and I decided not to continue installing the tritium myself in the lights as I want the lights to last longer than the tritium will remain bright. I personally have a couple Mules that I have installed trits on the MCPCB next to the LED but I can easily replace them down the road if I want. I leave it to the user to add trits on their own.

thanks for the info, I guess I will weigh my options on buying a new one from you and adding tritium or buying a used one with trits already installed.
 

F89

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Random post here but I have to say that the Haiku, particularly Hi CRI, is THE light.
I've spent way more money than I can afford or would like to admit on this hobby and have some super nice customs etc but let me just emphasize this point. Get a Haiku and be done with it.
The Haiku is pure genius in design, form and function. If there can only be one Haiku this is the breakdown, CR123 body, 119V, 3S. Yes 3S, trust me it's a better LE than the Hive (insert can of worms).
 

kaichu dento

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If there can only be one Haiku this is the breakdown, CR123 body, 119V, 3S. Yes 3S, trust me it's a better LE than the Hive (insert can of worms).
I've been wanting to either get a HIVE engine or Tana mod for my Haiku and it sounds like you've at least had the HIVE and not found it preferable, so please share why others might not want to go that route. :)
 

EEflashaholic

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May 7, 2017
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I just put together a Haiku single 123 pak, with the Tana "super le". That is the single led light engine with the h17f Dr. Jones driver. The led is the Nichia 219c 4000k. It is a fantastic combination. You can get really hi highs, really low lows and everything in between. Don and Tana are great to work with. The tint and beam are fantastic. I have been experimenting to find the perfect mode spacing and number of modes for my tastes. It also allows you to have two separate group setups for those that have a hard time settling on one. With this much flexibility the sky is the limit. It's difficult to settle on THE optimal setup once anything is possible. Hope this helps, but I think this combo is hard to beat except for maybe a Tana triple Haiku😀, but that is more about beam preferance.
 

Ghostwalker54

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This is a kit I put together several years ago when Don did a bead blast Haiku with XP-G,an extra Haiku head with a 119 Nichia and an XM-L mule. The Ti battery holder is a custom made by a gentleman that made only 10 total here on the forums (couldn't tell you who though).


8d5c243e34b0577482b04ad2d0ebd093.jpg
 

Ghostwalker54

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Thanks, archimedes! That was one I took in the kits to Tibet and China on medical missions but had half a dozen others at the time. So this one has been boxed and locked in the gun safe for the last three years.
 

F89

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I've been wanting to either get a HIVE engine or Tana mod for my Haiku and it sounds like you've at least had the HIVE and not found it preferable, so please share why others might not want to go that route. :)
Someone mentioned the H17F Dr Jones so I'll start there. This driver while not ideal can be made so by it's excellent firmware.
The Lucidrv firmware is a good example, if not the best, of clicky based firmware. Coupled with something like the H17F it is imho the best out there. Very efficient, adaptable, reliable, feature packed, simple to program and so on. I'll leave it at that as it can be read up on via the Dr Jones site.
The Hive however, is lacking, mildly complicated, unstable (visible PWM and flickering on the lower non PWM levels). It basically feels unfinished by design and miles behind the (H17F) Lucidrv.
Back to the 3S, this LE is solid and reliable and offers me what I need without the bells and whistles. It just plain works.
What drew me to the Hive was a lower low but I found the lows unpleasant/unusable. The Hive isn't terrible and I don't mean to completely rubbish it but the good old 3S is just much better from a basic functionality point.
I will also add that the Tana LE, while great for a mule, may not be ideal for a Haiku, for me anyway. The Tana LE doesn't sandwich the MCPCB between the can and the head, the PCB is a smaller diameter and sits up into the head which will seat the reflector further into the head. May or may not be an issue?
Back to the Lucidrv, a H17F or better still a modified one with less chips and certainly no FET would be perfect. Working with the standard format simply program a lower high. Moonlight works great so does every other level. Heaps of options, simply an awesome driver and firmware.
If this driver could be mounted in a McGizmo style can (sandwhiching the PCB) that would be perfect.
The Lucidrv (H17F) is excellent, the Hive is quite lacking.
End of story is basically this, I'm very happy with the 3S. It's the workhorse LE of the McGizmo.
 
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kaichu dento

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Someone mentioned the H17F Dr Jones so I'll start there. This driver while not ideal can be made so by it's excellent firmware.
The Lucidrv firmware is a good example, if not the best, of clicky based firmware. Coupled with something like the H17F it is imho the best out there. Very efficient, adaptable, reliable, feature packed, simple to program and so on. I'll leave it at that as it can be read up on via the Dr Jones site.
The Hive however, is lacking, mildly complicated, unstable (visible PWM and flickering on the lower non PWM levels). It basically feels unfinished by design and miles behind the (H17F) Lucidrv.
Back to the 3S, this LE is solid and reliable and offers me what I need without the bells and whistles. It just plain works.
What drew me to the Hive was a lower low but I found the lows unpleasant/unusable. The Hive isn't terrible and I don't mean to completely rubbish it but the good old 3S is just much better from a basic functionality point.
I will also add that the Tana LE, while great for a mule, may not be ideal for a Haiku, for me anyway. The Tana LE doesn't sandwich the MCPCB between the can and the head, the PCB is a smaller diameter and sits up into the head which will seat the reflector further into the head. May or may not be an issue?
Back to the Lucidrv, a H17F or better still a modified one with less chips and certainly no FET would be perfect. Working with the standard format simply program a lower high. Moonlight works great so does every other level. Heaps of options, simply an awesome driver and firmware.
If this driver could be mounted in a McGizmo style can (sandwhiching the PCB) that would be perfect.
The Lucidrv (H17F) is excellent, the Hive is quite lacking.
End of story is basically this, I'm very happy with the 3S. It's the workhorse LE of the McGizmo.
I've been leaning towards having Tana install an H17F in my Haiku for a few months now and am more convinced than ever that it is the move for me to make. I've always loved my 3S 119 Haiku but have long wished for both a higher high, and even more, a lower low.

Thanks for sharing your input and helping me to make this important decision with my only Haiku.
 

F89

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I've been leaning towards having Tana install an H17F in my Haiku for a few months now and am more convinced than ever that it is the move for me to make. I've always loved my 3S 119 Haiku but have long wished for both a higher high, and even more, a lower low.

Thanks for sharing your input and helping me to make this important decision with my only Haiku.

No worries.
The standard Tana LE with Tana's own firmware (guppydrv style, Tana3) is also a good option.
For me, a lower low might be nice to have but I don't require a higher high in a McGizmo as I find the 3S adequate and also don't wish to chew through the battery quickly or generate too much heat.
One thing worth mentioning is that the 3S (and Hive) function great on primary and liion where a Tana LE will be liion only.
I really feel that the 3S and AA converter are where it's at in a Haiku but I'm happy with 3 modes with memory, like I said they are the workhorse LEs of the McGizmo.
The AA converter is another story in it's self, an awesome LE that can handle a wide range of voltages although is definitely better suited to a single eneloop or primary.
I'm sure you'll enjoy your Haiku whatever the LE but those 119 Don has are magic, I hope for everyone's sake he has a large supply as to me the B and C has not yet surpassed the McGizmo 119A for a pleasing beam.
 
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