Wave of SunDrop and SunDrop XR-U

nbp

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My intended application is shining this light on the trees in my yard. I have no plan to climb these trees... I can't even do one pushup. :)

Interesting. See if it has suffcient throw for your needs. It may or may not suit you as well as the Haiku in that instance.
 

wimmer21

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Interesting. See if it has suffcient throw for your needs. It may or may not suit you as well as the Haiku in that instance.

I have an xpg2 in my Haiku so there'll be a massive difference between the two.

Another common application is putting light on my light table, hanging art and other such things while sitting in my favorite chair approximately 15 feet away. Unfortunately, at full power the SunDrop does not meet my needs.
 

archimedes

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....

I wanted to love the SunDrop but as you correctly noted above, the beam isn't for everyone. That said I kept it a long time before I could actually cut it loose recently.

I have (and had) more SunDrops than any other single type of (titanium) McGizmo ....

When you recently sold yours @nbp , I was a bit worried if you were ok, my friend :)
 

wimmer21

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I've been sitting in my chair and shinning light on my legs, and this SunDrop really is an amazing light for closeup applications. Apparently I've had a spot of ketchup on my jeans for a while now and never knew it.
 

archimedes

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since you've owned multiple sundrops, what LED did you find produced the most uniform beam in intensity and shape?

I couldn't tell you which was the "best" beamshape ... because I don't really care about the peripheral beam artifacts (although multi-die emitters, like the MC-E are not an ideal choice due to central beam artifacts)

Best color rendering ... N083
Best tint ... N119

Note also that the original SunDrop has some substantial differences compared to the more prevalent SD XR-U
 
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kaichu dento

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Pretty sure my Sundrop was an 083 version and I loved the perfect circle of light it made. Although I didn't keep it long I think I'll end up with another someday.
 

ma tumba

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I couldn't tell you which was the "best" beamshape ... because I don't really care about the peripheral beam artifacts (although multi-die emitters, like the MC-E are not an ideal choice due to central beam artifacts)

Best color rendering ... N083
Best tint ... N119

Note also that the original SunDrop has some substantial differences compared to the more prevalent SD XR-U
I think you said you preferred 119 over 219, didn't you. If so, could you elaborate on that a bit more, since we talking tints of mcgizmo lights?
 

archimedes

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I think you said you preferred 119 over 219, didn't you. If so, could you elaborate on that a bit more, since we talking tints of mcgizmo lights?

Well, to my knowledge, McGizmo has not used the N219 as a stock emitter to this point.

And, of course, the N119/119v, N219, and most other LEDs, are available in a wide range of flux and tint bins.

That said, the particular N119 emitters used by McGizmo have a very pleasing tint and color rendering for my vision.

Many of the N219 that I have seen in other lights, to me, seem to have an odd and almost "desaturating" quality. Although the tint appears neutral and the colors appear correct, the light appears sort of washed-out and lifeless with no "pop" .... I sometimes think of it as a "neutral gray" light, but that's not exactly it either.

It is not every N219 emitter, however, as I have a Tana TripLED and a Vinz P60-Triple that both provide beautiful bright white light .... I would think that they have used hand-picked and matched emitters, though.

That Vinz P60 dropin, in particular, is one of the very cleanest neutral white lights that I have experienced.

My CCT preference tends more towards the warmer side, and both of those are "cooler" than ideal for me (although the Vinz is likely very near 5000K neutral)
 

nbp

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I have two Haikus one with McGs 119 and one with a datiLED 219 LE. I will have to put them side by side to see how I feel about the two compared.
 

ma tumba

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Well, to my knowledge, McGizmo has not used the N219 as a stock emitter to this point.

And, of course, the N119/119v, N219, and most other LEDs, are available in a wide range of flux and tint bins.

That said, the particular N119 emitters used by McGizmo have a very pleasing tint and color rendering for my vision.

Many of the N219 that I have seen in other lights, to me, seem to have an odd and almost "desaturating" quality. Although the tint appears neutral and the colors appear correct, the light appears sort of washed-out and lifeless with no "pop" .... I sometimes think of it as a "neutral gray" light, but that's not exactly it either.

It is not every N219 emitter, however, as I have a Tana TripLED and a Vinz P60-Triple that both provide beautiful bright white light .... I would think that they have used hand-picked and matched emitters, though.

That Vinz P60 dropin, in particular, is one of the very cleanest neutral white lights that I have experienced.

My CCT preference tends more towards the warmer side, and both of those are "cooler" than ideal for me (although the Vinz is likely very near 5000K neutral)

Thank you!

Actually it was Tana who convinced me about neutral nichias while at that time my preferential cct was around 3700K. Tana's triple is still one of my favorite tints, on par with the 083B Sundrop, by the way. Tana thinks that he used 4500K 219B at that time, which he believes have been unsurpassed so far. I will have his 4000K 219B mule soon, so would be able to compare.
 
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kaichu dento

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I have two Haikus one with McGs 119 and one with a datiLED 219 LE. I will have to put them side by side to see how I feel about the two compared.
Still in possession of a 119 Haiku, I'll be looking forward to your report both in terms of output and general appearance.
 

staticx57

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The only difference between the 119 and the 219 of the same generation is the packaging. The 219 should actually be superior to use as it offers DTP so it has better cooling capabilities. And remember there are different binnings of the 219B. If someone tells you they have a 90 CRI 219B it doesn't even mean it is the best 219B. There is exists the R9050 which is 90 CRI min and 50 R9 min. There is also the R9080 which is 90 CRI and 80 R9. The latter will give far superior color.
 

ma tumba

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The only difference between the 119 and the 219 of the same generation is the packaging. The 219 should actually be superior to use as it offers DTP so it has better cooling capabilities. And remember there are different binnings of the 219B. If someone tells you they have a 90 CRI 219B it doesn't even mean it is the best 219B. There is exists the R9050 which is 90 CRI min and 50 R9 min. There is also the R9080 which is 90 CRI and 80 R9. The latter will give far superior color.

I wonder what was R9 for those 083B?

Also I finally took a closer look at those R1-R8 colors and it occured to me that they are all pretty dull ones. The vivid colors that include yellow, red, are not part of the equation, as well as the skin tones (r13,r15). So basically CRI is the ability to accurately reproduce the dull side of the world, rather than the bright one, isn't it? It was kind of revelation to me.
 

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