WD40 or Deoxit ?

[abvidledUK]

I've used WD40 exclusively for many years now for general "light" lubrication.

Now then for torches use...

Is there any real benefit to using Deoxit on torches as new, no oxidation or wear ?

Which Deoxit ?

Is it Deoxit first, followed by Deoxit Gold ?

Real world experiences if possible.

Contact cleaner also ?

 

[TITAN1833]

I've used WD40 exclusively for many years now for general "light" lubrication.

Now then for torches use...

Is there any real benefit to using Deoxit ?

Which Deoxit ?

Real world experiences if possible.

Have you tried Nanolube by Christian St Claire,I have used it on everything with great results.Others here have used it with the same report.I can't comment on Deoxit as I doubt I'll ever try it,I have no need to.BTW there is a special(price for Nanolube) for CPF members here http://www.nanolube.com/CPF.html

 

[will]

I have always used WD40 as a means of freeing up a rusted object or cleaning something. Once that is done - I use a regular lubricant. Nanolube is a excellent product, The thread over in the marketplace is by Chris Arnold and he has the special deal for CPF members.

by the way - WD40 - the WD stands for Water Displacment.

 

[Anglepoise]

Be careful with WD40 around electrical connections. It has a tendency to insulate and can cause all sorts of problems with switches etc.

I have seen car battery terminals that have been 'protected' with a spray of WD40, not pass enough juice to turn the starter motor.

 

[DM51]

One feature of WD40 is that it is a strong anti-oxidant. For this reason it should not be used on any object where an oxide is supposed to be present, such as the color-hardening (blueing/blacking) on guns. This may also apply to some finishes or coatings on lights.

 

[SCEMan]

Hmmm. For many years I've regularly wiped down my my blued and stainless firearms with WD40 w/no adverse affect on the finish....

One feature of WD40 is that it is a strong anti-oxidant. For this reason it should not be used on any object where an oxide is supposed to be present, such as the color-hardening (blueing/blacking) on guns. This may also apply to some finishes or coatings on lights.

 

[Patriot]

Please tell me more DM51.

I've used WD on bluing for over 25 years without any adverse reactions or degradation (as far as I can tell) to the finish. My dad has done the same thing before me. Is there something that's in WD that isn't in other gun oils? Does Break free oil have the same negative effect because I use that also, and like WD I don't think is was designed as a "gun" oil. I've just never heard that before and I've been around firearms and shooting my entire life. You've got me genuinely interested in more information about this. Thanks



To Original Post:
I started using Deoxit on flashlight contacts and connections after reading about it in here in CPF as a visitor. It seems to work well, but then so does WD. Here in AZ with our dry climate, oxidation doesn't seem to be a huge problem. WD-40, as least from my experience really seems to work just as well as the Deoxit. I little WD on a cotton-tip seems to remove thin rust film, crusties, and varnishes just as well. Since Deoxit is kinda pricey, I'm not certain that I would purchase it again since I couldn't tell any difference from products like WD. I may continue to use the Pro-gold because it seems to protect without insulating the contact point and I don't know what other products do that. I does seem to protect vs. having nothing applied at all.

 

[will]

I think that WD40 will not affect the blueing that is already there. However - if you were to re-blue an area, it might not take as well over a coating of WD40 ( not an expert on this matter )

 

[DM51]

Patriot36, Will, you may be right - I'm not a chemist, and I'm only going by what I was told by a gunsmith who specialised in barrels. I had to have a pair of barrels "re-blued" a few years ago. The guy asked if I used WD40 on a regular basis, which at the time I did, and the conversation went from there.

The blueing process is actually controlled rusting/oxidation, which eats away a bit of the barrel each time it is done, so eventually you lose barrel thickness and the barrel will go below recommended wall thickness and out of proof. The blue coat is essentially a polished layer of oxide, and an anti-oxidant eats that away, so the barrel may need re-blueing again.

Obviously, it is a slow process, but if a gun is in daily use and is treated with WD40 every time, it may not take too long.

That's what I was told, anyway, and it did seem at the time that my barrels had lost their blue quite quickly. I still use WD40 very occasionally to help get rid of water if a gun has had a serious soaking, but I make sure it is cleaned off afterwards.

I imagine Deoxit would be even worse at this, so although I use it quite regularly on my lights, I am careful where I apply it - and I would not use it on guns.

 

[will]

slightly off topic here - I restored some old ( 1932 ) Lionel Trains. The wheelsets are blued. After I removed the rust and polished them I got some gun blue and used that to blacken them again. The stuff comes in a tube and is green in color, wipe it on the steel and it turns black. Some pieces came out better than others, that might have been due to the pieces not being cleaned exactly the same way. Now that I think about it, the best were pieces that were just sanded down with 1000 grit wet or dry and then wiped with lacquer thinner.

I can't imagine the blueing process taking off enough metal to render the barrel out of spec..( here again - not a gun expert )

 

[mchlwise]

What I'm really kinda surprised about, and would like to confirm, is the gist of what I have gotten from this thread:

WD40 is an effective and comparable substitute for Deoxit on flashlights.

:shrug:

 

[will]

What I'm really kinda surprised about, and would like to confirm, is the gist of what I have gotten from this thread:

WD40 is an effective and comparable substitute for Deoxit on flashlights.

:shrug:

I am not familar with Deoxit, but I only use WD40 to break up rust, I don't use it as a lube.

 

[Anglepoise]

I would agree with Will, to NOT use WD40 as a lube. Also I personally would keep it well away from electrical contacts that have to pass voltage or current.

 

[mchlwise]

I would agree with Will, to NOT use WD40 as a lube. Also I personally would keep it well away from electrical contacts that have to pass voltage or current.

I know it's not the greatest lube, and I have much better things to use as far as actualy flashlight lubes.

What surprised me and brought up my question comparing it to Deoxit was this:

I started using Deoxit on flashlight contacts and connections after reading about it in here in CPF as a visitor. It seems to work well, but then so does WD. Here in AZ with our dry climate, oxidation doesn't seem to be a huge problem. WD-40, as least from my experience really seems to work just as well as the Deoxit. I little WD on a cotton-tip seems to remove thin rust film, crusties, and varnishes just as well. Since Deoxit is kinda pricey, I'm not certain that I would purchase it again since I couldn't tell any difference from products like WD.

along with subsequent discussions of WD40 being an oxidant remover (which sounds like Deoxit).

:shrug: