What are my options for upgrading my SF M3-CB & E2D?

Adirondack47

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
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29
Let me start by saying that I like the aesthetic appearance of both of these lights and I dont want to change them in that regard if at all possible.

Both were purchased 5 or so years ago and have remained bone factory since then. The E2D has an incan 60 lumen bulb and the M3-CB has a 225 lumen incan bulb

Some perameters that I want to stay within:

1)I want to use standard cr123's or rechargable 3.6V which I already have.

2) I want to keep the mods as close to "drop in" as possible as in: "order bulb/lamp xx from acme inc., unscrew your old SF bulb/lamp and screw in your new whizbang bulb/lamp xx" .

I have some small tools and a decent ability to follow detailed directions but no experience with electric work per se.

3) As earlier stated, I dont want to be replacing any parts or swapping heads

4) I want to keep the mods around the $20 mark

What I am looking for in the upgrade's:

I would like to get the E2D up into the 150 Lumen range and the M3-CB into the 350-400 lumen range. For sake of full disclosure, I prefer tighter, narrower beams with long throw.

The E2D is a nightstand light which stays in my nightstand with my 1911.

The MC-3B will be finding a new life on one of my ar-15's.

I have been looking hard at (2) different options from The Lumens Factory but I still have no idea if these are "drop in" parts that I could replace given my perameters as stated above:

E2D Replacement:
http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart_detail.php?id=26

M3 Replacement:
http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart_detail.php?id=44


Any info on these 2 replacements from LF would be greatly appreciated and Im willing to entertain any other upgrades which fall within the parameters I listed above.

As always, lovecpf
 
I have the eo-e2r in a e2e and really like it. The hotspot is ever-so-slightly oval, but is still fairly tight. I'm really enjoying mine.
 
Thanks for the inoput guys, looks like I will go with the LF lamps that I was looking at.

Gauging your responses, I will assume that the 2 bulbs that I listed would be considered "drop-in" parts?
 
Yes-drop-in parts. As has already been recommended, the HO-M3 is probably a better choice than the EO version, especially for use with primaries. It will have a rounder spot, and put less stress on the batteries for better runtime.
I've had several of the HO and EO Lumens Factory options for both the E series, and the M series, and the HO-M3 and EO-E2R were my favorites(and the HO-M3T for a turbohead, which is my only remaining incan).
 
Yes-drop-in parts. As has already been recommended, the HO-M3 is probably a better choice than the EO version, especially for use with primaries. It will have a rounder spot, and put less stress on the batteries for better runtime.
I've had several of the HO and EO Lumens Factory options for both the E series, and the M series, and the HO-M3 and EO-E2R were my favorites(and the HO-M3T for a turbohead, which is my only remaining incan).

Runtime is probably a second or third consideration behind brightness as this will primarily be a weaponlight not a general purpose hiking/walking light. Im looking for as much light as possible on this one without respect to battery runtime.

Would the EO-3T OR HO-M6R drop right into my M3-CB as well? I didnt really consider them as the spec's listed that those bulbs were compatable with the M3T/M4/M6 etc.

:popcorn:
 
Runtime is probably a second or third consideration behind brightness as this will primarily be a weaponlight not a general purpose hiking/walking light. Im looking for as much light as possible on this one without respect to battery runtime.

Would the EO-3T OR HO-M6R drop right into my M3-CB as well? I didnt really consider them as the spec's listed that those bulbs were compatable with the M3T/M4/M6 etc.

:popcorn:
Of course they will not fit, unless you buy a SureFire KT4 Turbohead kit. The brighest lamp you can use in your M3 is the IMR-M3, but you'll need a different battery tube... Because there is no 17500 IMR cell available.
 
Of course they will not fit, unless you buy a SureFire KT4 Turbohead kit. The brighest lamp you can use in your M3 is the IMR-M3, but you'll need a different battery tube... Because there is no 17500 IMR cell available.

I should have known :rant:

Looks like Ill have to decide between the EO-M3 or HO-M3.

It seem's like most of you who have been kind enough to offer your input like the HO @320Lm over the EO@ 380Lm. Ill take that on good authority and let you know what I pick up tonight when I get home from work :twothumbs
 
I should have known :rant:

Looks like Ill have to decide between the EO-M3 or HO-M3.

It seem's like most of you who have been kind enough to offer your input like the HO @320Lm over the EO@ 380Lm. Ill take that on good authority and let you know what I pick up tonight when I get home from work :twothumbs
My suggestion is: buy both!
 
My suggestion is: buy both!

If only I had another Host for it, I probably would :devil:

It took a boat load of restraint not to pick up one of those P7 Seraph heads that LF has after I tripped onto a review of them last night.

@ $20-$25 for one of the LF M series bulbs, I feel like im walking away with a pretty good deal for a damn good upgrade
 
If only I had another Host for it, I probably would :devil:

It took a boat load of restraint not to pick up one of those P7 Seraph heads that LF has after I tripped onto a review of them last night.

@ $20-$25 for one of the LF M series bulbs, I feel like im walking away with a pretty good deal for a damn good upgrade
Bear in mind that you'll only see the full potential of those lamps, when you use large Li-Ion cells or IMRs.

This is one of the best upgrades you can buy to your M3: http://www.lighthound.com/LeefBody-...tery-or-4x123-Battery-HA-III-Black_p_938.html
 
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Just wondering why you feel the need for 300+ on a rifle mounted light?

At contact distances, inside of a building or house, 300 lumens will really be no more effective than 100 lumens. Another thing to consider is bounce back. You throw 300 lumens across the room your eyes will be effected too just from the light bouncing back at you off the walls.

I run a 951 on my rifle, for an upgrade I went with a Malkoff M60L which puts out 140 lumens and will run 4 hours or so on a set 123's. I rellly was not even going for the extra lumens when I upgraded I was going for the run time. Believe me when I say it is more than enough on the rifle.
 
Just wondering why you feel the need for 300+ on a rifle mounted light?

At contact distances, inside of a building or house, 300 lumens will really be no more effective than 100 lumens. Another thing to consider is bounce back. You throw 300 lumens across the room your eyes will be effected too just from the light bouncing back at you off the walls.

I run a 951 on my rifle, for an upgrade I went with a Malkoff M60L which puts out 140 lumens and will run 4 hours or so on a set 123's. I rellly was not even going for the extra lumens when I upgraded I was going for the run time. Believe me when I say it is more than enough on the rifle.
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Thats a fair question but I dont use my ar's for "home" defense as it were. I have a Kimber Warrior with an X300 and a Remington 870 w/ a 65 lumen SF 618FA on it for that purpose. Im not a big believer in using a centerfire rifle for home defense.

I do occasionally partake in outdoor nightfire excercises with my ar's where I shoot anywhere from contact distance to 75 yards using all manner of illumination tools (Pocket & weapon mounted). I wont ever have to worry about flashback or having "too much" light utilizing the rifle where my M3 resides in the conditions that I normally shoot it in.

Im glad you brought this topic up as im looking to upgrade my 618FA as well. What kind of LED upgrades are out there that I could update my 618FA with?

I seem to remember a few reccomendations for a Malkoff dropin or the P60L bulb the last time I broached the topic a year or so back.

Any suggestions?
 
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