What battery chemistry is best for 1xAA EDC?

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johnnycr

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Hi all. I'm planning on getting an Eagletac D25A sometime soon as an EDC light, but I'm not sure what type of battery to use with it. I'm sure I'll be using standard alkaline batteries in a pinch, but for daily use I'm not sure if I should get rechargeable NiMH batteries, Li-ion batteries, or if I should just spend the money on primary lithium batteries. I know that Li-ion batteries will run a lot hotter and brighter,due to the higher voltage. But it also sounds like I'll lose some modes from the higher voltage as well. How would the primary lithium and NiMH batteries compare to primary alkaline? Would they run brighter? Longer?

I'm still new to battery chemistry and have read many forum posts on the differences, but I'm wondering what is best for daily EDC use in the Eagletac D25A specifically.

Thanks!
 
johnnycr said:
Hi all. I'm planning on getting an Eagletac D25A sometime soon as an EDC light, but I'm not sure what type of battery to use with it. I'm sure I'll be using standard alkaline batteries in a pinch, but for daily use I'm not sure if I should get rechargeable NiMH batteries, Li-ion batteries, or if I should just spend the money on primary lithium batteries. I know that Li-ion batteries will run a lot hotter and brighter,due to the higher voltage. But it also sounds like I'll lose some modes from the higher voltage as well. How would the primary lithium and NiMH batteries compare to primary alkaline? Would they run brighter? Longer?

I'm still new to battery chemistry and have read many forum posts on the differences, but I'm wondering what is best for daily EDC use in the Eagletac D25A specifically.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I've got a 2014 D25C Ti clicky coming in, perhaps tomorrow and I'll run it on my Li-Ions and see what works and what doesn't.

You should already be running NiMH batteries, so if you don't have them already, invest in a decent smart charger and try some batteries like Eneloops, or DuraLoops.

Alkalines aren't the best batteries to use in flashlights and their price will add up, over time.

Chris
 
It really depends on the light and your use and needs.
- Alkaleaks are the worst option. At some point, they will leak and ruin your light. When, not if they leak.
- Li-ions will provide the highest output. But you can lose some modes and they aren't the highest capacity option. If you just need a bright light for short periods, these are a good option. Not all lights support li-ions and even the ones that do will get hot pretty quickly. If you need long runtime and all the modes, other options are better.
- NiMH, especially Eneloops, provide good capacity and economy if you use the light a lot. Current Eneloops are LSD (low self-discharge) and are OK if you don't use the light regularly. If you need long runtime and use the light frequently, these are a very good option. They are also a good option if you don't want to lose modes.
- Lithium primaries are a good option if you use the light once in awhile (i.e. emergencies) or if the light is extremely efficient. There are lights that don't provide high output and are very efficient. A lithium primary that can last a year is more economical than NiMH and a charger.

A lot depends on the light. I don't have experience with the Eagletac D25A an I'm interested to hear what Chris has to say about the D25C. I do have an OLight i3S (AAA) and run it with li-ions (10440). I don't lose modes, it is very bright and runtime is sufficient for my needs. I don't have that many AA lights (and too many AAA lights) and I run most of them with either Eneloops or lithium primaries because I don't use them frequently and when I do, I want long runtimes.
 
I have a few D25As, collect in the AA/sub-lumen niche, and I use all AA-sized chemistries. I only like using Eneloops or L91 Lithium primaries in this light. 14500s and 3V CRAAs will shift all modes up on the 2014s (the 2012s go 2-mode direct drive) - I like my low lows. Also the head is to small for adequate heat sinking.

The moonlight mode circuit isn't the best either - it's voltage sensitive and may exhibit PWM-like pulsation at low voltages. My N219 will run 0.5 lms on 1.5V+ (Alks & L91s) and about 0.15 lms on 1.3V- (NiMhs).

Quark have better drivers for full support/efficiency with all battery chemistries.
 
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I use an Eneloop XX in my EDC D25A clicky Titanium.

Although I could use lithiums in it, I'm more than happy with the performance on NiMH - the ability to use it for a long time on moonlight mode if necessary is reassuring to me. I'm also not too keen on the risk of "vent with flames" possibility with Lithium Ions even if the chances are quite low.

Lithium primaries don't make sense for my use since I can be always sure that the Eneloop is full or nearly so and doesn't cost money to keep charged instead of having to replace a primary lithium regularly to be sure of having plenty of capacity on standby if needed.
 
Thanks for the advice and helpful information everyone. I think NiMH batteries will be prefect for what I need. I think I'll pick up a pack of eneloop batteries.
 
Good quality alkaline,s would be my choice,many of the big retailers do loads of deals so you will be fine on a good deal.
 
johnnycr said:
Thanks for the advice and helpful information everyone. I think NiMH batteries will be prefect for what I need. I think I'll pick up a pack of eneloop batteries.
Click to expand...

Don't forget, regarding the capacity issue of these smaller AAA/AA batteries, carrying a small plastic case with 1, 2, 3 or 4 extra batteries, or li-ions isn't that big of a deal, especially if you're using AAA sized lights.

I carry a lot of stuff on me when I go out my front door and while I wouldn't want to go out with a two pack of 18650s, if I didn't have to, carrying a 4 pack of AAA, or AAs wouldn't be that imposing.

Chris
 
mcnair55 said:
Good quality alkaline,s would be my choice,many of the big retailers do loads of deals so you will be fine on a good deal.
Click to expand...

Besides the potential for leakage, a big problem with alkalines is that they can't provide very much current. And compared to multi-AA lights, 1xAA lights draw HUGE current on the higher modes from anything that's not a 3+V lithium primary or rechargeable lithium ion battery. If you plan to get one of the brighter 1xAA lights (like the Zebralight SC52) and use it on its higher modes, alkaline batteries are a TERRIBLE choice. You will likely only get a few minutes with an alkaline battery on high.

With this said, the best choice for most is going to be NiMH. With NiMH, you have ample current capacity for a 1xAA light. You also have rechargeability, which is rather important when you can easily drain a AA battery in less than an hour.

14500s can be a good choice, provided your light can handle them. Many can, but you want to make sure your light can before using them. Otherwise, the light will die an early death. Like any Li-Ion battery, they require more care. But IMR 14500s are available for those wanting a safer chemistry. And if the light will run 3.7V 14500s and CRAA batteries, IFR 14500s are another possibility.
 
mcnair55 said:
Good quality alkaline,s would be my choice,many of the big retailers do loads of deals so you will be fine on a good deal.
Click to expand...

Besides the potential for leakage, a big problem with alkalines is that they can't provide very much current. And compared to multi-AA lights, 1xAA lights draw HUGE current on the higher modes from anything that's not a 3+V lithium primary or rechargeable lithium ion battery. If you plan to get one of the brighter 1xAA lights (like the Zebralight SC52) and use it on its higher modes, alkaline batteries are a TERRIBLE choice. You will likely only get a few minutes with an alkaline battery on high.

With this said, the best choice for most is going to be NiMH. With NiMH, you have ample current capacity for a 1xAA light. You also have rechargeability, which is rather important when you can easily drain a AA battery in less than an hour. Lots of people will recommend Eneloop 2000s. But given how quickly a 1xAA light can draw down a AA battery, I prefer a higher capacity battery like the Duracell Ion Core (Eneloop XX).

14500s can be a good choice, provided your light can handle them. Many can, but you want to make sure your light can before using them. Otherwise, the light will die an early death. Like any Li-Ion battery, they require more care. But IMR 14500s are available for those wanting a safer chemistry. And if the light will run 3.7V 14500s and CRAA batteries, IFR 14500s are another possibility.
 
StorminMatt said:
Besides the potential for leakage, a big problem with alkalines is that they can't provide very much current. And compared to multi-AA lights, 1xAA lights draw HUGE current on the higher modes from anything that's not a 3+V lithium primary or rechargeable lithium ion battery. If you plan to get one of the brighter 1xAA lights (like the Zebralight SC52) and use it on its higher modes, alkaline batteries are a TERRIBLE choice. You will likely only get a few minutes with an alkaline battery on high.

With this said, the best choice for most is going to be NiMH. With NiMH, you have ample current capacity for a 1xAA light. You also have rechargeability, which is rather important when you can easily drain a AA battery in less than an hour. Lots of people will recommend Eneloop 2000s. But given how quickly a 1xAA light can draw down a AA battery, I prefer a higher capacity battery like the Duracell Ion Core (Eneloop XX).

14500s can be a good choice, provided your light can handle them. Many can, but you want to make sure your light can before using them. Otherwise, the light will die an early death. Like any Li-Ion battery, they require more care. But IMR 14500s are available for those wanting a safer chemistry. And if the light will run 3.7V 14500s and CRAA batteries, IFR 14500s are another possibility.
Click to expand...

Alkies work fine for me and I can buy them any where. More bogey man leak scares I see in your reply.
 
mcnair55 said:
Alkies work fine for me and I can buy them any where. More bogey man leak scares I see in your reply.
Click to expand...

It's not bogey man scare tactics. Alkaleaks will leak. If you haven't been affected by leaks, consider yourself lucky. I gave up on them a couple of years ago, when I was getting an average of about 2 electronics destroyed per year. Now, everything is Eneloops.
 
I voted in both of those, lol.

Just had two CVS AAs leak in a MiniMag that sees truck duty, last week.

I got it cleaned out and working, but I had to hammer the tube against a wooden block for a good 50 whacks to get the last one out.

Funny, but I got into my truck and threw some change in the center console and noticed that the light was on in its holster. Odd, as I didn't bump anything when I got some change out, on the way in. I hit the rear NiteEyz button to turn it off and nothing. Still on. I tried some more, but no dice.

I removed the tail cap and the light was still on! I smacked the tube against my hand to get the first battery out and after doing so, the light was still on!

Since I couldn't get the top one out, I drove home with this light on and with only one battery inside and no cap installed! It finally dimmed out, but the leaking crap in the tube must have created a connection somehow?

Strange.

Chris
 
mcnair55 said:
Alkies work fine for me and I can buy them any where. More bogey man leak scares I see in your reply.
Click to expand...

My point was that leaks are but one concern. I'm not sure how familiar you are with 1xAA lights. The truth is that 1xAA lights are not at all kind to batteries. We're not talking about your typical 2xAA incandescent Minimag here. With just one battery to power the light and a (typically) rather inefficient boost driver, current draw has to be MUCH higher than alkaline batteries are comfortable with in order to produce decent output. In other words, unless you will be running the light on lower outputs, the kind of current draws you will see won't be good for the lifetime of alkaline batteries. You will want something that can tolerate higher current in order to run a high output 1xAA in the brighter modes. Also, since NO battery will last too long in a 1xAA light, having the option to recharge will save LOTS of money.
 
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StorminMatt said:
My point was that leaks are but one concern. I'm not sure how familiar you are with 1xAA lights. The truth is that 1xAA lights are not at all kind to batteries. We're not talking about your typical 2xAA incandescent Minimag here. With just one battery to power the light and a (typically) rather inefficient boost driver, current draw has to be MUCH higher than alkaline batteries are comfortable with in order to produce decent output. In other words, unless you will be running the light on lower outputs, the kind of current draws you will see won't be good for the lifetime of alkaline batteries. You will want something that can tolerate higher current in order to run a high output 1xAA in the brighter modes. Also, since NO battery will last too long in a 1xAA light, having the option to recharge will save LOTS of money.
Click to expand...

I am very familiar with AA and AAA cell lights as it happens and have over 50 in my collection.I combine both cells Alkies and Eneloop type. For edc Alkies are good enough and leaks are something reserved for the peddlers of doom.

When I bought my first decent light after those terribly old fashioned technology wise Maglites I saw no reference to not using Alkies on the instruction sheet.
 
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StorminMatt said:
My point was that leaks are but one concern. I'm not sure how familiar you are with 1xAA lights. The truth is that 1xAA lights are not at all kind to batteries. We're not talking about your typical 2xAA incandescent Minimag here. With just one battery to power the light and a (typically) rather inefficient boost driver, current draw has to be MUCH higher than alkaline batteries are comfortable with in order to produce decent output. In other words, unless you will be running the light on lower outputs, the kind of current draws you will see won't be good for the lifetime of alkaline batteries. You will want something that can tolerate higher current in order to run a high output 1xAA in the brighter modes. Also, since NO battery will last too long in a 1xAA light, having the option to recharge will save LOTS of money.
Click to expand...


I have had more electronics ruined due to leaking Alkaline batteries than I care to try to recall. Flashlights, Remotes and Portable CD players to name a few. I even suffered an accidental, but serious, alkaline burn due to leaking alkaline batteries. I've even had them leak in storage (less than 3mos. old & w YEARS to go to Exp. Date) while still in their unopened package. For me at this point, alkaline batteries are a last-ditch, emergency option ONLY. For long term non-use storage such as in a BOB I use Lithium Primaries, and Eneloops for everything thing else that uses AA or AAA batteries. I even use Eneloops in adapters in my 3D cell LED Maglight. And while my experience matches what StorminMatt says about 1xAA lights and inefficient drive circuits, etc., it isn't just 1xAA lights that have problems with alkaline batteries. I recently received my Nitecore EA4, and wondered why Turbo mode did not seem much brighter than High mode. I had stuck some AA alkaline batteries in it to try it out because the AA Eneloops I'd ordered for it had not arrived yet, and all of my other Eneloops were in use. After the AA Eneloops arrived and I topped of their charge, I put them in in place of the alkaline batteries and WOW! Turbo mode was much brighter than High mode, and Turbo was much brighter with the Eneloops than with the alkalines. And I had checked the voltage of the alkalines with a DVM before I installed them. So, goodbye alkaline batteries. I gave the alkalines I had left away to friends and neighbors who needed batteries right then, but the store was closed, or whatever. I also cautioned them about alkaline battery leakage/damage, and told them about Eneloops.
 
Yeah, I think if you're going to risk alkaleaks, then make sure to only use fresh batteries, and throw them away if they are anywhere near the expiry date, regardless of whether they're still fresh. And never run them down, again throw them out before they're fully drained.

They have enough power for low-power lights like mini Maglites or other cheap lights. But you're dumb to use them in high-powered lights. They just won't last very long, as they're not designed for high current use.
 
flitter296 said:
I have had more electronics ruined due to leaking Alkaline batteries than I care to try to recall. Flashlights, Remotes and Portable CD players to name a few. I even suffered an accidental, but serious, alkaline burn due to leaking alkaline batteries. I've even had them leak in storage (less than 3mos. old & w YEARS to go to Exp. Date) while still in their unopened package. For me at this point, alkaline batteries are a last-ditch, emergency option ONLY. For long term non-use storage such as in a BOB I use Lithium Primaries, and Eneloops for everything thing else that uses AA or AAA batteries. I even use Eneloops in adapters in my 3D cell LED Maglight. And while my experience matches what StorminMatt says about 1xAA lights and inefficient drive circuits, etc., it isn't just 1xAA lights that have problems with alkaline batteries. I recently received my Nitecore EA4, and wondered why Turbo mode did not seem much brighter than High mode. I had stuck some AA alkaline batteries in it to try it out because the AA Eneloops I'd ordered for it had not arrived yet, and all of my other Eneloops were in use. After the AA Eneloops arrived and I topped of their charge, I put them in in place of the alkaline batteries and WOW! Turbo mode was much brighter than High mode, and Turbo was much brighter with the Eneloops than with the alkalines. And I had checked the voltage of the alkalines with a DVM before I installed them. So, goodbye alkaline batteries. I gave the alkalines I had left away to friends and neighbors who needed batteries right then, but the store was closed, or whatever. I also cautioned them about alkaline battery leakage/damage, and told them about Eneloops.
Click to expand...

I am sorry but i do not believe a word you are saying unless you have been buying those horrid test batteries that come with some things mainly toys. Ok i know many people who have had leakers(my kids) but mainly because they have left the batteries in after they run out of power.

I use alkalines and never get a problem ever.
 
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