What can i run with 3 x C cell li-on

Crenshaw

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I aquired some C sized Li-ons,

i originally wanted to use them in a mag85 but upon checking Luxluthor's destructive bulb test charts, a WA1185 looks like it would flash on 3 hot off charger li-ons

i have plenty supply of osram bulbs in the shops around here...any of those might work? i dont seem to find one on the charts really worth building since the output wont outdo my ROP hi by much...

thanks! sorry for being such an incan noob...:ohgeez:




Crenshaw
 
I have a Mag85 running off 3 AW Li-ion C cells and am very pleased with it. I don't know as I've ever hit the bulb with three freshly charged hot cells, but I'm still on the original bulb. Normally, I use a 2 cell charger so the first 2 cells have time to rest while the third is charging.
 
i originally wanted to use them in a mag85 but upon checking Luxluthor's destructive bulb test charts, a WA1185 looks like it would flash on 3 hot off charger li-ons
Most hosts have enough resistance that this won't be a problem. I've build three different 3x Li-ion 1185's (including a 3x AW "C") and now a 3x IMR 1185, and I have yet to flash a bulb in any of them, even with fresh cells.

The 3x AW "C" M*g85 (w/AW incan driver) is by far my most used incan.
 
Most hosts have enough resistance that this won't be a problem. I've build three different 3x Li-ion 1185's (including a 3x AW "C") and now a 3x IMR 1185, and I have yet to flash a bulb in any of them, even with fresh cells.

The 3x AW "C" M*g85 (w/AW incan driver) is by far my most used incan.

awsome....

now to get the Bi pin holder from FM....

is this Mag85 gonna make my ROP look wimpy?

i do hope so.....but does the 300odd lumens really make alot of difference?

Crenshaw
 
Lighthound.com has them.Finding a charger for them is tough,....
I use the two cell 18650 charger from LightHound to charge mine. It just needs slight modification to allow the C cells to fit. Just desolder the side terminals and cut away some of the plastic body.



....is this Mag85 gonna make my ROP look wimpy?....
Yes, it is.
 
Most hosts have enough resistance that this won't be a problem. I've build three different 3x Li-ion 1185's (including a 3x AW "C") and now a 3x IMR 1185, and I have yet to flash a bulb in any of them, even with fresh cells.
I've flashed 1185s on a stock 3C with no resistance mods, aside from replacing the bulb pedestal with a Kiu socket (required to hold the Bipin bulbs).

Throwing a "NTC" resistor in the tailcap, and then doing as many resistance mods as possible elsewhere is probably the best way to build a 3C 1185, without doing something like designing an active circuit to regulate the output.
 
I have (2) 3C M@G85 that I run with AW's "C"cells and have never flashed a lamp. I often use them fresh off the charger and my lights have all of the resistance fixes completed.
 
I have several 1185 combinations including 3/C, 3/18650, 3/17670 and all are capable of flashing the bulb if I charge to 4.2V. I'm not sure if that's due to the warmer climate or just that my lights have lower resistance for some strange reason. All are different...some mags, some Surefire, some FM. I'm not complaining about the combination though since the 1185 and li-ion is one of my favorite formulas. It will make the ROP look like a sissy but it's still very practical too.
 
Can I interest you in reading through this Big Hitters: BigLeef and Surefire M6 thread?

I wish the Leef C parts are more readily available, or at least I am hoping they will become so soon. C-cell lights would be another great addition to my hobbyist kit. Something that has higher capacity to CR123 cells and very bright. :whistle:

With Aloha,

Clarence
 
If you can get your hands on one of AWR's regulated switches, you'll open up more options. I have one running an 1164 with 3x Emoli cells. The regulation is set at 9.5V, so I'm getting around 1300 lumens, without stressing the lamp.

JimmyM is also currently working on a new batch of regulation circuits for D Mags. They shouldn't be too much longer in coming to fruition.

I prefer the 1164 to the 1185. It seems to be more rugged, and has higher outputs at lower input voltages.

Caution..I'm pretty new at hotwires, and still learning.
 
awsome....

now to get the Bi pin holder from FM....

is this Mag85 gonna make my ROP look wimpy?

i do hope so.....but does the 300odd lumens really make alot of difference?

Crenshaw

300 lumens makes a HUGE difference!!! OH yea.... it's insane.. especially when you are comparing a 1 lumen light to a 301 lumen light... man, it's like night and day!

Sorry for the sarcasm :)

Think in terms of percentages. The 1185 is slightly brighter than an ROP in this respect, and most of the difference you will see is actually an improvement in color temperature as the 3xli-ion cell driven 1185 is pushing the bulb a lot harder than most ROP configurations. When color temperature and beam shape stays the same, it usually takes 30% or more of a difference to even be able to see a difference in brightness, in the case of the 1185 vs ROP, there will be some variations in the beam shape and color temp that will probably help the 1185 stand out vs the ROP...
 
cl0123,woah...thats an interesting thread....i always wondered what Leef C and big leef were about...never bothered to find out..

donn_, i was actually considering using the PHilips 5761 bulb... because i would run it on two LI-ons, in perhaps a Mag 2C and it MIGHT be a more redi;y available bulb to me.

at the moment, my only source of 11185 s seems to be litho, and i have to get around to getting them...lol

its good to know that most people are running 3 x li-on Mag85 with no flashes

but just in case, 2xtrinity what is an NTC resistor?:stupid:

Crenshaw
 
300 lumens makes a HUGE difference!!! OH yea.... it's insane.. especially when you are comparing a 1 lumen light to a 301 lumen light... man, it's like night and day!

Sorry for the sarcasm :)

Think in terms of percentages. The 1185 is slightly brighter than an ROP in this respect, and most of the difference you will see is actually an improvement in color temperature as the 3xli-ion cell driven 1185 is pushing the bulb a lot harder than most ROP configurations. When color temperature and beam shape stays the same, it usually takes 30% or more of a difference to even be able to see a difference in brightness, in the case of the 1185 vs ROP, there will be some variations in the beam shape and color temp that will probably help the 1185 stand out vs the ROP...
Another thing that is nice about the 1185 is that its filament geometry is significantly more compact than the Lamp used in the ROP. It is a light source for medical equipment, so it is designed to be as much like a true point source a possible.

For 2C, a better choice than the ROP, IMO, is the Philips 5761, which is even brighter than the 1185. It's also a microscope bulb, so similar to the 1185, has a nice compact filament arrangement.

but just in case, 2xtrinity what is an NTC resistor?:stupid:
Negative temperature coefficient. It means it has high resistance when cold, low resistance when hot. Incandescent lamps are the opposite, they are positive temp. coeff. That means you get a large inrush current when they are cold. Matching the lamp with a NTC will negate this effect, reslting in a more or less constant current -- good for preventing "instaflash", as well as keeping some protected LiIon short circuit detectors from tripping.

There are several threads/examples if you search (I'm currently too lazy to look them up...).
 
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What kind of mag body would you use for 3 "C" cells? would you take a 3c mag, use the add-on for 2c from lighthound and chop some of the spring off , of use a "D" sized mag?
 
There are even more ways you could do it. You could cut down a 4C mag if you like the C form factor and like the stock appearance. Or, you could just use a 4C and use a spacer or a longer spring if you don't mind a bit of extra length. There are also special tailcaps that will allow 3C Li-ion cells in a Mag 3C.
 
The 1185 may be my favorite bulb. Sure, there are brighter setups, but not many that are as white or pleasing to the eye :thumbsup:. I recently assembled a 3C using FM's tailcap and a KIU socket - no instaflashing with the 1185 or a 1331 which is a little more voltage sensitive. My Tenergy charger terminates right around 4.12 volts on my cheap DMM.

The 5761 hits the C Cells pretty hard and I find output dims quickly. It is still pretty bright, but no brighter than an 1185 after about 5-10 minutes of run time. Sony IMR-style cells seem to run the 5761 brighter and whiter than 2 Cs, but again run time is limited.

Interesting graph of the 5761 from Mudman cj: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=160048
 
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The 1185 may be my favorite bulb. Sure, there are brighter setups, but not many that are as white or pleasing to the eye :thumbsup:. I recently assembled a 3C using FM's tailcap and a KIU socket - no instaflashing with the 1185 or a 1331 which is a little more voltage sensitive. My Tenergy charger terminates right around 4.12 volts on my cheap DMM.

The 5761 hits the C Cells pretty hard and I find output dims quickly. It is still pretty bright, but no brighter than an 1185 after about 5-10 minutes of run time. Sony IMR-style cells seem to run the 5761 brighter and whiter than 2 Cs, but again run time is limited.http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=160048
IMO what we need is a hotwire regulator for C-maglites. A 5761, driven via regulated PWM off of 3C's would be amazing. Its color temp could be pushed as high as a typical Mag-85 build, and it woudl be regulated at that intensity. As it is, the 2C mag '61 is a good "showoff" light for firigin quick bursts. This is enhanced by the fact the light is so small.

I once brought a 2C Mag'61 out camping in a true dark environment, with SMO reflector. Another guy asked if he could borrow my 2C (w/ 5761). his reply -- wow! that's pretty bright, usually the small mags are dimmer. That's almost as bright as a 6D maglite! :ohgeez:
 
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