What is a Mag85?

sygyzy

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Jan 29, 2003
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Are there any other one-stop shops besides Light-Edge? Most of their inventory seems to be backordered 2-3 weeks.
 

graphicator

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Apr 10, 2006
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The supermag configuration from Light-edge is pretty tempting to me too.
I'm a total newbie, no electrician and for what I have read here the components in the supermag are okay. It even holds one of fivemega's batterypacks.

A ceramic bi-pin holder from fivemega would pretty much complete the set.
It does not require soldering or modification of any kind, am I correct?
Just unscrew the old socket and insert the new one?

On the other hand I have some concerns about charging those 1650 Nimh batteries. I will have to buy a charger in my own country as I'm from europe.
I don't understand much about volts and the difference between 1650 or 2500 Nimh batteries. For what I know the 2500 Nimh batteries are the most common ones and a charger for these is not hard to find. Do I need another kind of charger for 1650 Nimh batteries than for these 2500's?

I'm in doubt if I should buy components or the complete supermag configuration. For one reason, I own a 4D-maglite. But I don't see configurations with that. Is it not possible to get more burntime from a configuration with more batteries in it?
 

Delvance

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Nov 26, 2005
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Graphicator, welcome to CPF :).


Both the 1650 and 2500 batteries you refer to are just rechargeable NiMH. The 1650 has less runtime but will make the light brighter (these batts. perform better under load than the 2500s) whilst the 2500s will give more runtime but less light output (the voltage of each cell sag more than the 1650 when the batt. is put under load ie. the lamp).

If you buy the light-edge turn key [email protected] would recommend getting a universal smart charger. These chargers allow you to charge ALL the batteries in the holder (so you don't have to remove them each time) and they also do it quite fast and auto cutoff when they sense the battery is fuly charged. Most of these chargers are capable of taking 110/240V in so all you have to worry about is a power adapter to fit the wall socket that your country uses.

A ceramic bipin holder from FM would make that light very nice :), yup no soldering etc with this method. I read that FM will be receiving stock of these little gems soon.

You can use alkaline batteries...it won't be bright and it won't run very long though... reason being alkaline batteries don't tolerate high amp draw very well. The WA1185 lamp will draw about 3.15amps i believe...way too much for alkalines to handle.
 

graphicator

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Apr 10, 2006
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Thank you,

Your info is very helpful. I understand the differences between the batteries. I think I can make a better choice now. And thank you for the advice about the universal smart charger.

I'll be on the lookout for these components or for the complete configuration.
 

powernoodle

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Feb 25, 2004
Messages
2,512
Location
secret underground bunker
Just received a Magcharger and am very impressed with its output. [Newbies see it at www.brightguy.com under the Mag-lite section, and its review at www.flashlightreviews.com ]. Haven't done a side by side with a Mag85, and I'm sure the latter will win, but the Magcharger is a worthy contender and puts out a bunch of light right out of the box. Have some WA1160 bulbs to try in it as well for increased output. May start a new thread on the subject after I play around with 'em a little so as not to hijack this one. Maybe the Mag85 makes more light relative to the Magcharger or Magcharger/1160 than I think it does.

The punch line is that while Mag85 remains the standard bearer, the Magcharger (even with standard bulb) is a worthy second best, with the bonus of factory parts and warranty, and for fewer coins. Just FYI.

cheers
 

sygyzy

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Joined
Jan 29, 2003
Messages
749
Delvance said:
Graphicator, welcome to CPF :).


Both the 1650 and 2500 batteries you refer to are just rechargeable NiMH. The 1650 has less runtime but will make the light brighter (these batts. perform better under load than the 2500s) whilst the 2500s will give more runtime but less light output (the voltage of each cell sag more than the 1650 when the batt. is put under load ie. the lamp).

If you buy the light-edge turn key [email protected] would recommend getting a universal smart charger. These chargers allow you to charge ALL the batteries in the holder (so you don't have to remove them each time) and they also do it quite fast and auto cutoff when they sense the battery is fuly charged. Most of these chargers are capable of taking 110/240V in so all you have to worry about is a power adapter to fit the wall socket that your country uses.

A ceramic bipin holder from FM would make that light very nice :), yup no soldering etc with this method. I read that FM will be receiving stock of these little gems soon.

You can use alkaline batteries...it won't be bright and it won't run very long though... reason being alkaline batteries don't tolerate high amp draw very well. The WA1185 lamp will draw about 3.15amps i believe...way too much for alkalines to handle.


Are there any recommendations on alternatives to CBP1650's? I have a mishmash of 2xxx mAh NiMH's and they don't seem that bright. So far I am not awed by my Mag85 over a LuxIII modded Mag 3D (Direct Drive). CBP has been sold out for at least two weeks now. I was thinking about placing an order at Thomas Distributing for a charger as well as some cells. What AA's would you recommend?

Thanks.
 

Delvance

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Sydney, Australia
Sygyzy,


What Dreamscape said :). Sanyo 2500s perform fairly well (2nd best behind CBP1650) under high amp draw. The thing is, at ~3.3A draw (the 1185 bulb), the Sanyos and the CBPs are fairly similar in performance.

I noticed you don't have a location posted next to your name so i'll chuck this option in as well. Some countries can get Sanyo Eneloop NiMH batteries already...these are rated at 2000mAh but have the saving grace of having extremely low self discharge. Normal NiMHs discharge ~1% a day whilst the eneloops...i think they lose about 15% over one year (not exact on the % but something close to 15) and these eneloops also seem to handle high amp draw fairly well looking at some discharge graph tests.

Oh, Sanyo 2700mAh AA are out now!
 

Rochestercop

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Jun 28, 2004
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Michigan
Just curious. I use a MagCharger as a backup duty light. Could I swap out a WA bulb and LOP reflector and still use the stock battery? Would this give me a noticeable improvement in output and throw?

BTW: I am still waiting for my factory upgrades for my Tiger Light.
 

jdriller

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Feb 9, 2003
Messages
1,059
Location
New York
Not possible, charger has a special reflector. Custom charger reflectors were most recently offered by CPF'er Fivemega, but that was long ago.
 

jdriller

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Feb 9, 2003
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New York
Sorry, forgot my manners. Welcome to CPF! Sit back, learn a lot, and say goodbye to your money : :) :
 

dragoman

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Mar 23, 2006
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Maryland
Rochestercop said:
Would it be worth the trouble (or possible) to swap out the reflector as well?

No real need unless you want a stippled/orange peel reflector. MC comes with aluminum reflector so no danger of melting.

dragoman
 

Josey

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Jan 5, 2004
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NW Rainforest
Rochestercop:

Welcome to CPF. For your MC, you can also get a 4000mAh battery pack made of 5 1/2D NiMH cells (to replace the 2500mAh stock pack) to go with the 1160 bulb to get both more light and runtime. --Josey
 

Bob_G

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Apr 25, 2005
Messages
682
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Kentucky, USA
I've Dremeled a couple bulbs and it works well and is very easy and you don't have to worry about dying or anything. The medium grit sanding wheel (multi layered fabric thing) works best. I've done full bulb and top half, but not bottom half. Full is a waste of time, not needed. I'd like to compare top to bottom, but I also don't want to waste bulbs on meaningless experiments, since I pretty much decided the proper reflector works better. But ... with bulbs other than small WA, you don't necessarily have a lot of reflector options, so may end up doing more.

The basic problem if you're obsessed with beam purity like me, is that the small ream reflectors put their extra light right into spot artifacts, so you end up with a heavier reflector surface to compensate. Put it another way, the best beam I have overall is a 1185, top half frosted (Dremeled) but in a spec ream LOP. That huge hole keeps the filament from messing up the spot, and the frosting smooths things out, and it's a beautiful beam. But it's not as bright as it could be because of that ream. And life goes on ...
 
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