What is a truly robust survival flashlight

motigg

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Has anyone mentioned the Peak Logan with the kit for different batteries? CR123, AA, AAA, potted electronics, twisty. Hard to beat in stainless as a versatile, reliable light.
 

thermal guy

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Ya I did and that’s probably one one the best option to be honest. I love mine. And solid is a understatement to the extreme.
 

StagMoose

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I need to do some research on the peak led lights. Their website is terrible and you can’t tell what you are even buying. I’m in the market for a USA made AAA keychain light. Need to do some research.

As far as robust, people have their own personal experiences and biases usually based on what they own or are familiar with.

I have a streamlight that hasn’t ever failed and has been around a long time.

But all mechanical and electrical devices can fail. Nothing is perfect. I like ones that I can fix with parts on my own. Malkoff offers that for me.
 

motigg

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I recently got the high cri Eiger and use a 10440 in it. Stainless body. It’s just a simple rugged light that is bright and exudes quality and durability. The dimming mechanism is a bit finicky but that doesn’t bother me. In my experience HDS, Malkoff, Peak, and Surefire are extremely durable and reliable. You can feel and see the difference just by handling the light a bit. I have not tried all or nearly all brands but I’m comparison to Fenix or Jetbeam or Nitecore or Eagletac, the former makers I mentioned are just much better. Not that the latter brands are bad. I just put a premium on quality things that last and are dependable.
 

bykfixer

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There has been a lot of discussions regarding the concept of a bombproof light which would never fail. Which is more bombproof: HDS, Elzetta, Malkoff, etc.

In my opinion the most robust light should not have anything but a LED, body and batteries. Which means no driver and no switch.

So I am left with well potted 5mm LEDs, 2x AA/AAA cells and springless twisty.

I have experimented with some multiple 5mm yuji configurations to understand, what is the minimum number of the how LEDs I need in an edc light. Looks like 5 is quite sufficient. And an mcpcb with 5 5mm leds fits greatly an aleph mule head or maglite AA.

A z44 bezel can fit 12x 5mm leds or more, so a 6p with a zerorez tail and a short pill would, in my opinion be the king of bombpoofness.

Why springless?

The fabled minimag has a springless twisty up front. With ultimate lithiums, not bad right out the box. Not sure about solid the engine is mounted though as I've not taken their LED version apart before.
 

davemp

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Fish14, Why do you think Streamlights are garbage? I have a Protac HLX and a Protac 1l/1AA for over two years now and never have a problem. They get used a lot. davemp
 

Fish 14

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Fish14, Why do you think Streamlights are garbage? I have a Protac HLX and a Protac 1l/1AA for over two years now and never have a problem. They get used a lot. davemp
Stick one on a gun and fire 100 rounds and watch it crap out. I have thousands of rounds threw my MALKOFF and surefire's and they are still working. I can't say that for the latter.
For general purpose they are fine. But those with experience in the gun world will never buy one and depend their life to it. They just don't hold up. Their marketing is a lie.
 
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lion504

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What’s the definition (requirements) for ‘robust’ survival? Seems like we’re headed down the “tactical” light path...
 

StagMoose

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For “survival” I’d think you would want something that can run off about any cells you can find. Ideally small and light weight as possible in case you need to be on the move. But also durable with extra parts to fix it.

I have also had the same experience with lights on firearms as Fish. The streamlight protac seems like a great idea. And it is if you aren’t going to use it for maybe that one time you need a light and a rifle together. But they do crap out eventually.

I have a Surefire 1L that has been working for years off li-ions. It is more of a pocket carry light or for glovebox since they take a bunch of different cells. Seems like the best application for them.

Have Surefires that just stay on rifles and they keep working.
 

thermal guy

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With that said I’m saying go with a logan17500 in SS.And not saying that because I have one “or two” or a MD3 with proper kit and dropin you can run a ton of cell’s. And carry spares For everything that can go wrong with it. These threads are fun but they are not geared for us.I like them because someone doing a google search who knows very little about lights will find it and buy a really good light that they need for an emergency. But if we are honest with ourselves am I, are you going to grab A light in an emergency and be done with it? NO of course not. In a situation like that I’m going to look like a moving Christmas tree and have on hand enough cells to jump start a C5.😁 So in typical CPF ways bring a FEW lights with you. Good lights and unless you get run over with a dump truck you will be fine.
 

thermal guy

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My point exactly. For us this thread is a fun way to post our opinions. NO ONE here is going to grab 1 light in any situation that requires a flashlight. Be honest.
 

Random Dan

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I think that the weight of the light is also important. A small aaa twisty, like fenix e01, sofirn c01, peak eiger, and the like simply can't generate enough force in a fall to cause damage. Something the size of a malkoff hound dog can break from the right fall no matter how well made it is because it's just too much mass.

Plus, for equivalent weight, volume, and price of a larger light you can carry a bunch of aaa twisties. The odds of all of them failing are essentially zero.


With that being said, if I head out with my hds rotary and malkoff mdc I don't worry much about being without light.
 

xxo

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Simple is good, but I think you can take it too far and sacrifice performance.


The Photon I with a LED with a couple of coin cells in a little plastic case is about as simple as it gets, but performance is limited.


I like lights that are simple, well made, throw well, have a low mode to increase battery life and can run on multiple “fuels”.


OQ8DkS9.jpg
 

Whitelight1

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It is interesting that this topic has come up here and now, because last night, when I was supposed to be sleeping, I was wide awake thinking that I do not have anything in the HDS-LRI-Malkoff-McGizmo-Muyshondt-Okluma-Oveready-Peak-Pelicans-Prometheus-TexasLumens-TNC and Surefire and Zebralight class of flashlights yet, and that I would have to continue reading vast quantities of material to decide on which is "best" or simply open a new topic thread to ask which is "best" for me to start in this class of lights.
All of a sudden, here we are!
So, where does someone who is solidly and happily in the Fenix-Nitecore-Olight universe make his first move into the HDS-Malkoff-Zebralight universe, in search of the truly most robust survival light?


Just out of curiosity, which Chinese brand do you like the best?

Personally I only own Olights and American lights now. As for your next step, I would go with Malkoff. You can buy extra spare parts and swap them out if you need to which is unlikely. Any of the major three Surefire, Malkoff and Elzetta will work. You get good tools, over toys with massive lumens, even though they are fun and can be very useful.

All threads need pics:


sLl9lX3.jpg


2tcpAnc.jpg
 

ma tumba

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One important thing about lights in the field is that you often reload it under heavy rain, or have a chance to drop it to water so the internals get wet and the light would operate with some water inside.

There are 2 issues here: 1) li cells do not like water and 2) all the electronics must be well potted, including electronic switch if any.

Let us discuss this
 

thermal guy

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Who saw the video running around with elzetta changing batteries under water? Not real good for primaries even but worked just fine.
 
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