What is the hottest Solarforce L2 Drop-In?

[Roberts30]

Howdy, I'm somewhat new here and I was recently visiting Bass Pro Shop and played with the Streamlight Scorpion (Xenon).. I was really impressed with how much heat it put out. I was wondering what Drop-In I could add to my L2, to make it just as hot or hotter.. lovecpf
Thanks!

 

[Linger]

Hello:welcome:
Just a caution, you'll have to be prepared to deal with the dangers associated with running a high-discharge lithium powered light.

With-out any changes, probably a lumensfactory e0-6, will do ~200lumens on two fresh cr123's.

Best place for info on incandencent lights is the incan forum. People are friendly there and they love new adherents to the power of burning fillaments. Read the beginners guide to incans there and it'll tell you all about cells, lamp assemblies, and how to make it all work out in your favour.

Best may be lumens factory drop-ins (your size is d26). A few things determine which drop-ins you can run.
1) batteries. for the brightest and best, you'll need some IMR batteries.
2) tailcap - any regular surefire / solarfoce / whatever clicky tail-cap may fry under the current from an IMR powered LA (lamp assembly). You'll need to get a twisty -or- an AW soft-start clicky (rated to 75w) Netkids clicky (3a) may do you.
3) If you do those, you can get an Eo-IMR-9, put in two fresh AW IMR 16430's and have blazing hot lumens for 8 minutes.
4) You'll need an extender for more cells if you're going to run for any meaningful length of time at high levels.

 

[old4570]

The solarforce R2 purple 5 mode drop in - 3 to 4.2v pill is the hottest R2 I know off . Also do a search for nailbender on this forum , or you can put together a SSC P7 drop in yourself .

Head on over to DX for a MC-E drop in , but be prepared to do a driver swap if the output is not to your liking .

 

[kramer5150]

I think the P91 with 2x18650 IMR cells runs pretty hot. I've never seen it measured for temperature though.

 

[Marduke]

Why do you want hotter? Hotter != brighter

 

[SilentK]

get a mini-turbo from lumens factory and put a d36 imr 700 lumen dropin running off of 2 imr rcr123a.

 

[Roberts30]

Hello:welcome:
Just a caution, you'll have to be prepared to deal with the dangers associated with running a high-discharge lithium powered light.

With-out any changes, probably a lumensfactory e0-6, will do ~200lumens on two fresh cr123's.

Best place for info on incandencent lights is the incan forum. People are friendly there and they love new adherents to the power of burning fillaments. Read the beginners guide to incans there and it'll tell you all about cells, lamp assemblies, and how to make it all work out in your favour.

Best may be lumens factory drop-ins (your size is d26). A few things determine which drop-ins you can run.
1) batteries. for the brightest and best, you'll need some IMR batteries.
2) tailcap - any regular surefire / solarfoce / whatever clicky tail-cap may fry under the current from an IMR powered LA (lamp assembly). You'll need to get a twisty -or- an AW soft-start clicky (rated to 75w) Netkids clicky (3a) may do you.
3) If you do those, you can get an Eo-IMR-9, put in two fresh AW IMR 16430's and have blazing hot lumens for 8 minutes.
4) You'll need an extender for more cells if you're going to run for any meaningful length of time at high levels.

Thanks!
I was wondering if I got the e-06 if I would blow the bulb if I used my two rechargable 3.7 V cr123s? Also will this bulb burn paper? (Just wondering, I thought it would be a great camping tool)

 

[Black Rose]

Thanks!
I was wondering if I got the e-06 if I would blow the bulb if I used my two rechargable 3.7 V cr123s?

Not sure if it would blow, but feeding 8.4v max to a bulb designed for 6V will most likely shorten it's life.

 

[ImGeo]

If I'm not mistaken... maybe mod yourself a infrared emitter. Infrared=heat, right?

 

[Linger]

Also will this bulb burn paper?

You've got to get to the incan forum. You'll fit right in with that attitude.

Re: follow Black Rose's advice, you may the bulb with-out seeing any light at all.
You must read the incan guide. It's long, but if you read it you'll learn things like:
The cr123, while rated at 3v, will not hold that voltage for long under a high-draw incan lamp assembly, or tactical incan. While the eo-6 is designed to take 6v at start up, the cells quickly sag to 2.7v and the lamp assembly is designed to eke out a pleasing white beam with a lower running voltage (~5.4v). 16430's (rcr123's) are 4.2v hot off the charger, two of them in your solarforce L2 give 8.4v on start up. That may poof the bulb without a moment of brilliant incan goodness. Further, they'll hold at ~3.7v a piece (7.4v) running, which you now know isn't just 1.4v above rated spec, but nearer 2v above expected drive current. These tactical LA's have little headroom. They're pushed to give highest / whitest output but that means when Lux Luther does his 'destructive incan tests,' bulbs are poofing at .02v above rated spec.

There are lots of options for burning things. Lots of cpf incan users have lights that can't be left loaded. I dunno if the Lumens factory IMR EO-9 (or 12) will do it. Easiest is probably a Five Mega sunlight drop-in. But again, you're now using IMR cells and an upgraded switch.

Best,
Linger

 

[Linger]

Roberts30,

Please, take the time to print this off. I suspect you'll finish it before putting it down.
:devil:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536
:devil:
Once you've read that 1/2 a dozen times, don't buy / make anything yet.



Read this
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=201375

Then
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=228965

and you can do some shopping.