What was the last LED light you purchased and why?

[Dirge]

I ordered a Wurkkos TS10 V2 (4000K, black aluminum) about a month ago but was sent a 6000K version by mistake, so I returned it and received a 4000K replacement two weeks ago. Unfortunately, the positive battery contact button is missing from the head (there’s just a bit of solder where the button should be); it actually works so long as I use a button-top battery and don't shake or jar the flashlight, but I of course contacted Wurkkos to arrange for a replacement. After providing Wurkkos with the flashlight code and a photo of the problem area, Wurkkos sent a replacement, which arrived just the other day. This one had a bad tailswitch, so I screwed the battery tube and tail assembly from the old broken flashlight to the head of the new broken flashlight and -- voilà! -- one non-broken flashlight.

Be advised that the first broken TS10 V2 has the old 0713 firmware, while the second broken TS10 V2 has the new 0000 firmware, which limits Turbo output to 50% FET (vs 100% FET) to prevent burning out the none-too-robust little CSP2323 emitters—this I learned from various jon_slider posts. Like it or not, the new 0000 firmware trades a substantial amount of output for greater emitter safety. Wurkkos has not updated the TS10 V2's information/specs to reflect the lower output associated with the new 0000 firmware. A few Andúril 2 options and default settings have changed as well.

 

[jon_slider]

sorry to hear of the QC problems, you had a bad streak, glad you ended up being made whole

agree Wurkkos has no motivation to update specs to a lower Turbo claim.. I confirm that my TS10 lights w 0000 firmware produce about 50% lower max output..

for me that is fine, as I always felt the 1400 lumen Turbo output was excessive.. and I would routinely disable Turbo (I actually still do, as I dont need 700 brief lumens from such a small light.)

The new 0000 firmware comes with a ceiling that produces 450 lumens, which imo is still about double what I feel the light can reasonably sustain without overheating.

The TS10 beam is very floody, and wont reach much past 7 yards anyway.. I dont see much point to trying to use brute force to reach any farther..

An alternative to the TS10, when more reach is needed, from the same size package, is the TS10SG. it has a nice throwy beam that has more than double the reach of the TS10..

The downside is the TS10SG is not suitable, for me, indoors. Because it uses a Low CRI LED.. It works fine outdoors though..

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

Finally pulled the trigger on an M21F. I wanted to test how the SFT70 3000K was like and if it measures up to the SFT40 3000K.

Next will inevitably a T7 519A 2700K, now that it's back in stock.

 

[dc38]

I now have an acebeam h16 on the way..cuz reasons I guess. 7075 aluminum high CRI nichia sold me I guess. If it's any of those I'll be satisfied. If it's all of those I'll be happy.

I cancelled the order, because the light has PWM. Pwm is apparent when I start moving around, unless the light exceeds a certain intensity or pwm frequency. Dealbreaker 🙁

 

[jon_slider]

the cute little i3e has landed.. I wasted no time changing the LED (and switched to a more diffused optic):

Good Tint, Good Beam, Good Times!

 

[jon_slider]

today I gifted this Wurkkos HD10 headlamp with magnetic tailcap to a friend that does appliance repair.. the magnet will provide a lot of flexibility to aim the beam inside the appliance, if he does not choose to wear the headband.

I immediately ordered a new one for myself. Its a total package, with built in USB charging for the included 14500 battery.. The light runs Anduril, its actually the same driver as the Wurkkos TS10, plus built in charging.. Has a great floody beam for working on things at arms reach.

 

[jon_slider]

New arrival, D3AA w sw45k
love the regulated output, with NoPWm

D3AA Anduril options I change:

disable smooth steps and Turbo
set both Advanced Ceilings to 120/150= 520 lumens max for use w LiIon
set Simple Ceiling to 90/150= 200 lumens max for use w AA batteries
set floors to 2/150= 0.01 lumens
change stepped mode to 12 steps, both advanced and simple
change smooth ramping to speed 2 (slower)
set Aux to low Red,
set POVD to 2 seconds
set battery check blinks to Red

USB-C battery option:

 

[lampeDépêche]

Fenix Silvglow AAA my latest. Glad I got it, already pondering another.
It comes *close* to one of my all-time favorites, the 4/7s Revo in SS. (Had one, sold it, *sob*).
The tint, CRI, and beam are better than the old Revo, and that was great. The body is comparable -- robust SS with good hand-feel for easy rotation. Fenix slightly shorter -- 71mm vs. 72mm. This body has a steadier tail-stand than the Revo.
I preferred the Revo low of 1.5 lumens for 60+ hours vs. the Fenix low of 5 lumens for 25 hours, but I know tastes differ on low lows.
Anyhow --I recommend. First Fenix that I've purchased in years.

 

[lampeDépêche]

Just to add -- another thing I like about the Silvglow is the UI: always comes on in low, goes L-M-H, and has no strobe. Just L-M-H for ever if you want to cycle through it.
I don't like memory, I don't like turning on in M or H, and I don't like strobe on a light like this one (it's has its place, but not on a little AAA).
Those are all personal preferences, and many of you will not share them. But I figure that when I tell you what I like about the light, it at least gives you information about the light.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Fraz Labs QT-SS 18650.

Wanted another tough and durable light.

 

[srvctec]

Nitecore EDC 29 because I LOVE the off switch (lockout) on the side (ALL lights need this, IMO) and I like the form factor and all the features. It's been my main EDC light for the last few weeks when I got it.

 

[jon_slider]

Wurkkos TiTS10, because I wanted to mod it with some e21a:

to compare to some other options:

 

[PaladinNO]

Coming up on that 4th decade Very Soon™, I wanted to treat myself with a "midlife crisis" light.

So I opted for an Emisar D4K Titanium Colourful mule.

Emisar D4KTI COLORFUL 21700 HIGH POWER EDC FLASHLIGHT

<p><span style="font-size: medium; color: #000000;">This is single channel version, for the dual channel version, please <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/dual-channel-d4kti-colorful-21700-high-power-edc-flashlight.html">click here</a></span></p> <p>&nbs

intl-outdoor.com

16x E21A, 8x 3500K + 8x 4500K.
RGB switch LED, and ordered with an additional copper bezel and raw titanium magnetic tailcap.
...Whether Hank actually understood what I wanted and made it 8x of each and not just 16x 3500K, and actually included the copper bezel and titanium tailcap as extras and not just as replacements remains to be seen.

Image from the site.

Guy works fast, that's for sure. He had my order out the door in less than a day! The English needs work though.

If he gets this light right, and I told him this, I got orders for another 350-400 USD ready.

 

[PaladinNO]

Wurkkos TiTS10, because I wanted to mod it with some e21a:

View attachment 74869

CRI 98... 😍

Do you have anything with a 50/50 mix of E21A 3500K + 4500K? I find that particular tint perfection, but I would really like to see a CRI-measurement on it.
I find the standalone E21A 3500K (Noctigon K9.3) little bit too warm and 4500K (DT8K) a little bit too cold.

 

[jon_slider]

Do you have anything with a 50/50 mix of E21A 3500K + 4500K?

no.. have not tried any mixes

 

[Monocrom]

no.. have not tried any mixes

Wondering if a mix would be problematic to the batteries used inside.

 

[PaladinNO]

Wondering if a mix would be problematic to the batteries used inside.

In what way? Hank already offers E21A mixes in several of his lights. Dual-channel DW4 and D4K to name a couple. In case you haven't tried any of those, you can use it with channel 1, channel 2 or both channels at the same time. 🙂
There is also the Fireflies PL47MU 3800K with the same mix, with 4x E21A 3500K + 5x 4500K on the same channel.

Whether each channel has its own voltage regulation, or if 3500K and 4500K runs on different voltages, I don't know but I doubt it, as Hank told me to order the D4K Ti as the single channel, after I asked if I should order the single- or dual-channel version as a base light.

He also told me from a previous order that the mule version (of the DW4) does not offer channel switching or tint ramping. Just all 16 LEDs lighting up or down at the same time, and that order was also with a 3500K / 4500K E21A mix.

 

[Monocrom]

In what way? Hank already offers E21A mixes in several of his lights. Dual-channel DW4 and D4K to name a couple. In case you haven't tried any of those, you can use it with channel 1, channel 2 or both channels at the same time. 🙂
There is also the Fireflies PL47MU 3800K with the same mix, with 4x E21A 3500K + 5x 4500K on the same channel.

Whether each channel has its own voltage regulation, or if 3500K and 4500K runs on different voltages, I don't know but I doubt it, as Hank told me to order the D4K Ti as the single channel, after I asked if I should order the single- or dual-channel version as a base light.

He also told me from a previous order that the mule version (of the DW4) does not offer channel switching or tint ramping. Just all 16 LEDs lighting up or down at the same time, and that order was also with a 3500K / 4500K E21A mix.

Wasn't aware of that. Thank you for the 411.

 

[russprechtl]

I just got a Mini Pineapple, because I wanted another high CRI AAA to rotate with my Maratac Brass, Lumintop penlight, and Skilhunt E3A.

 

[jon_slider]

The Olight i3e Blue Porcelain model is Free today (if you have an account and login, the item is automatically added to your cart).

And IF you register a new email address, shipping is Free also.. including anything else in the first order.

So I picked up another Headband too:

Because, the headband is very inexpensive and very easy to attach and detach a light to it. And because the i3e makes a great little modding host for a Nichia LED swap ;-)