What was the last LED light you purchased and why?

Candle Power Flashlight Forum

Help Support CPF:

I suck at actually buying lights...

The last two lights I bought were my Fenix e01 (last october) and L1T (over a year ago) - the e01 as a replacement for a Solitaire style light - small, basic and functional. The L1T as my main light - simple UI, AA batteries, solid and functional.

Between those two I haven't really had any need to buy a new light (ignoring the cost factor) and I have not yet found anything better suited to what I want than the L1T (the LD10 for example is better, but too complicated, Surefires use 123's not AA, etc...)

I am currently debating either another L1T as a spare (after misplacing it a couple of times...) or an LD01 as a halfway between the e01 and L1T - smaller and easier to carry than the L1T, but also more output and better tint than the e01.
 
Narcosynthesis said:
II am currently debating either another L1T as a spare (after misplacing it a couple of times...) or an LD01 as a halfway between the e01 and L1T - smaller and easier to carry than the L1T, but also more output and better tint than the e01.
Click to expand...

4Sevens tactical Quark AA is what you need. It has the same 2 mode interface as your L1T, but it allows you to select the 2 modes with 8 different settings, 5 brightness and 3 flashling. It really isn't as complicated as it sounds.
 
A D10 R2, because I can't bear to be without a light while waiting for my Warm Quark AA.

It's the second D10 I've had, the switch stopped working on the first and it never reached the company I returned it to, but the simplicity of the UI and the ease of carrying it clipped in the coin pocket on my jeans were enough to convince me to buy another one. Sadly the new one seems to be going through batteries at an alarming rate, but it's here to stay at least until I get the Quark.
 
defloyd77 said:
4Sevens tactical Quark AA is what you need. It has the same 2 mode interface as your L1T, but it allows you to select the 2 modes with 8 different settings, 5 brightness and 3 flashling. It really isn't as complicated as it sounds.
Click to expand...

I ordered the Eagletac T20C but haven't got it yet. Does that count?


Eagletac seems to put out more lumens than the M20 and gives you a diffuser. The colored filters are neat but I didn't buy them. I have no real purpose for them.
 
I ordered the UltraFire MCU-C7 from DealExtreme along with a bare MC-E emitter. I wanted to try the emitter swap I read about. Worked pretty well. Runs about 250 lumens but it sure eats batteries.
 
Eagletac T100C2. Excellent regulation with 18650 batteries, and 200+ lumens with a smooth beam using a smooth reflector!
 
L1D and an E01 as my first "real" flashlights for EDC.

Use them both in work, and as good as the L1D is, I still want more. I have a feeling August could be an expensive month, I want a load of lights sorted and ready for the winter!! 😀😀
 
chef4850 said:
I appologize that htis is my first post and have been reading up for quite a while on all information. I have the uf rl-2088 light and think it is worth every $. Well made, quite bright, fair run time and came with out any flaws. I have researched all the lights that I have purchased through the CPF forums. I have used the reviews good/bad and even on this light I found mixed reviews. I still purchased the light and am very pleased with it. My hat is off to all of you for your great reviews as well as bad. I guess you have saved me some $. :twothumbs
Click to expand...

That's why we are here. :thumbsup:

chef4850 said:
I appologie for the previous post as you were speaking of a different light than me. 😗 First post and a little anxious I guess!
Click to expand...

:welcome: I'm sure that 1st post will definitely not be your last! haha
 
*Dusty* said:
L1D and an E01 as my first "real" flashlights for EDC.

Use them both in work, and as good as the L1D is, I still want more. I have a feeling August could be an expensive month, I want a load of lights sorted and ready for the winter!! 😀😀
Click to expand...

Maybe you can save some money by knowing that the L1D head can be interchangable with the L2D(2xAA 180 lumens) and P2D (1xCR123 180 lumens) bodies... L2D for longer runtime and brightness, and P1D for a portable light with the same brightness level as the L2D (180 lumens).

So as not to confuse you.... I am copying Gunner12's post to show you which head is compatible with which body tube:

"The P2D/PD20 head is compatible with the L1D/L2D/LD10/LD20/L1T V2.0/L2T V2.0 body and the same circuit as the respective models(P2D/L1D/L2D, same circuit, PD20/LD10/LD20, same circuit)."

Hope this helps and saves you some money!:twothumbs
 
Quark 123 Tactical Neutral (warm) Tint No Clip.

I ordered this light because I wanted the following features:

2 level operation, with each level selectable
Warm tint emitter for outdoor use (hiking, camping, hunting, fishing, etc.)
Low lows (moonlight .2 lumens and low, 3.5 lumens)
Silly modes (strobe SOS) either absent, or completely out of the way

As a bonus, there are several other desireable qualities:

Very nice beam pattern, good combo of throw and flood
Very good build quality
Lego-izable 🙂 for different battery types
Forward clicky
Great knurling - aggressive enough to hold onto, but probably won't eat pocket linings...time will tell
Aesthetically pleasing styling
 
LiteFlux LF5XT: unparalleled customizing possibilities, build quality, sale price, and the fact that my only other AA lights are a JetBeam Jet 1 (about 30-35 lumens, max) and a JetBeam EP3, which is made of relatively heavy stainless steel.

I've been looking for a AA light with an upgraded LED and a UI that I can conform to my desired qualities, at a good price, and the sale on this light was an opportunity I felt I should jump on.
 
Last edited:
Rayovac Sportsman Extreme 300 lumen lantern and parts for my ROP mod... because I just can't stop buying things that emit light. :shakehead :shrug: :broke: :duh2: :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top