What watch you're wearing?

[Dave D]

This watch building lark is getting quite addictive, after making a black face metal case MoonSwatch I decide to also make myself a white face version. I don't like the moon phase dial on the originals so went for this option featuring Snoopy and Woodstock!

 

[Monocrom]

Now to build a Pilot's watch so that Snoopy is prepared to take on the Red Baron! 😉

 

[iacchus]

One of my builds.

 

[Bucur]

I have a dilemma that I hope the gurus at this forum would be kind enough to help me sorting out. The short version of my question is: does chronograph function usually add some sportiness to time only three hand watches that tend to be a bit dressy? The long version of the same question would require a comparison between the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 and Portugieser Chronograph (more specifically; IW358303 and IW371604) as well as some insight on their lack of COSC certification.

This headache is due to my wife. She insists that I must celebrate my 70th​ birthday party in July with a new watch on my wrist as a present from her. I cannot convince her that this will be an unnecessary expenditure. She refuses to be contended with a more rational gift. I have to comply. Needless to say, her wishes are above all.

What she wants for me is a sort of hybrid like a dressier sport watch or a sportier dress watch with brown leather strap and no complication, especially no date. Since the AD accepts to swap straps, the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 ticks most boxes but when I tried it on my wrist, I felt that it could be a bit dressier than what I want. The AD suggested the Portugieser Chronograph. Indeed, it looked like the right combination between dress and sport but the chronograph complication scares me even if I can (and most probably will) refrain from using this function a lot. There are some horror stories on the web, even with the recent in house caliber 3716 with column wheel. Besides, I would feel better if I could trust COSC or METAS instead of IWC's own criteria, especially for accuracy.

This brings the Breitling alternative on the table. Somehow, the Premier line which tics most boxes on paper, did not appeal to me on my wrist, no matter the dial color. The Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss Warhawk (A233802A1L1X1) however, was much better on my wrist, despite its theoretical lack of dressiness. This entire shift towards chronographs confused me. Nothing is wrong with the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, maybe with a vague question mark about accuracy but something doesn't sit well. Consulting others is the way to go and this forum seems to be the right place for this. Please note that value retention is not a concern, since I don't sell watches (and I don't buy pre-owned). Could someone please help in sorting out this nice dilemma (within the approximate price range of the above mentioned watches)?

 

[Monocrom]

Honestly, simple solution.... Which of the above watches that you are considering feels best on your wrist? Some have argued that the best Sports watch is the Rolex DateJust. I don't agree. If you plan to never use a chronometer watch, don't buy one with that complication. You'll likely regret it. The dials will seem as though they are getting in the way of telling time. Are the specific watches you've mentioned above the ONLY options. Or are there others you're considering?

 

[bykfixer]

Hamilton Jazzmaster

 

[iacchus]

I have a dilemma that I hope the gurus at this forum would be kind enough to help me sorting out. The short version of my question is: does chronograph function usually add some sportiness to time only three hand watches that tend to be a bit dressy? The long version of the same question would require a comparison between the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 and Portugieser Chronograph (more specifically; IW358303 and IW371604) as well as some insight on their lack of COSC certification.

This headache is due to my wife. She insists that I must celebrate my 70th​ birthday party in July with a new watch on my wrist as a present from her. I cannot convince her that this will be an unnecessary expenditure. She refuses to be contended with a more rational gift. I have to comply. Needless to say, her wishes are above all.

What she wants for me is a sort of hybrid like a dressier sport watch or a sportier dress watch with brown leather strap and no complication, especially no date. Since the AD accepts to swap straps, the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 ticks most boxes but when I tried it on my wrist, I felt that it could be a bit dressier than what I want. The AD suggested the Portugieser Chronograph. Indeed, it looked like the right combination between dress and sport but the chronograph complication scares me even if I can (and most probably will) refrain from using this function a lot. There are some horror stories on the web, even with the recent in house caliber 3716 with column wheel. Besides, I would feel better if I could trust COSC or METAS instead of IWC's own criteria, especially for accuracy.

This brings the Breitling alternative on the table. Somehow, the Premier line which tics most boxes on paper, did not appeal to me on my wrist, no matter the dial color. The Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss Warhawk (A233802A1L1X1) however, was much better on my wrist, despite its theoretical lack of dressiness. This entire shift towards chronographs confused me. Nothing is wrong with the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, maybe with a vague question mark about accuracy but something doesn't sit well. Consulting others is the way to go and this forum seems to be the right place for this. Please note that value retention is not a concern, since I don't sell watches (and I don't buy pre-owned). Could someone please help in sorting out this nice dilemma (within the approximate price range of the above mentioned watches)?

In my book, the Port 40 is the clear winner here. It certainly seems to be in the lead from what you write.
It has a seconds hand, so isn't strictly a dress watch. The Port line has a nice heritage as a working watch, is sporty enough by its nature of being inherently legible, and sounds like the most comfortable to you. The classic sport aesthetic was clear and legible, simple uncluttered dials.
I'll echo Mono's sentiment with a suggestion to avoid a Chrono unless you specifically want a Chrono.

Well wishes for your 70th!

 

[dc38]

@Bucur DISCLAIMER, I HAVE NO FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE WITH THIS BRAND,

But allegedly they use some techniques that are attributed to Grand Seiko.

Knot | Made in Japan wristwatch brand

Knot is a high quality, ‘mix and match’ and Japan made watch brand. Every straps are made using traditional Japanese crafts with unique designs. From over 100,000 different combinations you can enjoy with your wrist fashion.

en.knot-designs.com

 

[Bucur]

Honestly, simple solution.... Which of the above watches that you are considering feels best on your wrist? Some have argued that the best Sports watch is the Rolex DateJust. I don't agree. If you plan to never use a chronometer watch, don't buy one with that complication. You'll likely regret it. The dials will seem as though they are getting in the way of telling time. Are the specific watches you've mentioned above the ONLY options. Or are there others you're considering?

Thank you for your suggestion about chronographs. The watches I have mentioned are not the only options but the only ones that I tried on my wrist, so far. I am considering also visiting the Omega Boutique for trying the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds with power reserve indicator (435.13.40.22.06.001) but I think that it would feel even dressier than the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40. I recon the Omega offers a better movement but aesthetically, the IWC is closer to what I am looking for.

Am I right about the movements in question? The METAS certification of the Omega would offer me piece of mind but I have no sufficient knowledge on IWC's mechanical prowess. IWC offers eight years warranty but what they warrant is not as clear, especially in terms of accuracy which matters for me. I think their criteria is 0 to +7spd but would they accept say, +8spd or -1spd as defect? Even if they would, how likely is a mechanical ill luck scenario? This is why COSC or METAS certifications make sense for me. On the other hand, I cannot dare ruling out IWC (or any other reputable brand) due to lack of certification, based on my limited knowledge.

 

[Bucur]

In my book, the Port 40 is the clear winner here. It certainly seems to be in the lead from what you write.
It has a seconds hand, so isn't strictly a dress watch. The Port line has a nice heritage as a working watch, is sporty enough by its nature of being inherently legible, and sounds like the most comfortable to you. The classic sport aesthetic was clear and legible, simple uncluttered dials.
I'll echo Mono's sentiment with a suggestion to avoid a Chrono unless you specifically want a Chrono.

Well wishes for your 70th!

Thank you for your reply. The Port 40 is actually very close to being the winner but I need (and like) to further investigate and I have plenty of time. Would you like to comment on my fixation with COSC or METAS certification? How valid is my concern about IWC watches not being certified?

 

[iacchus]

Thank you for your reply. The Port 40 is actually very close to being the winner but I need (and like) to further investigate and I have plenty of time. Would you like to comment on my fixation with COSC or METAS certification? How valid is my concern about IWC watches not being certified?

What's IWC in-house standards, something like ±7 seconds? Not half bad. It wouldn't bother me. If I was going for supreme accuracy, I'd be looking at something from Citizen or Seiko HAQ lines anyway. So lacking COSC wouldn't be a deal breaker.

METAS is a little different, but again it depends on what you need. For a mission critical, life depends on it watch, METAS certification would be a plus. Given the circumstances of the gift you are considering, I'm not sure that would be a deal breaker either. For me, anyway.

Those sorts of considerations are very personal though, so hard for me to weigh in with anything particularly useful.

 

[Monocrom]

Thank you for your suggestion about chronographs. The watches I have mentioned are not the only options but the only ones that I tried on my wrist, so far. I am considering also visiting the Omega Boutique for trying the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds with power reserve indicator (435.13.40.22.06.001) but I think that it would feel even dressier than the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40. I recon the Omega offers a better movement but aesthetically, the IWC is closer to what I am looking for.

Am I right about the movements in question? The METAS certification of the Omega would offer me piece of mind but I have no sufficient knowledge on IWC's mechanical prowess. IWC offers eight years warranty but what they warrant is not as clear, especially in terms of accuracy which matters for me. I think their criteria is 0 to +7spd but would they accept say, +8spd or -1spd as defect? Even if they would, how likely is a mechanical ill luck scenario? This is why COSC or METAS certifications make sense for me. On the other hand, I cannot dare ruling out IWC (or any other reputable brand) due to lack of certification, based on my limited knowledge.

The nice thing regarding Omega's website (and Tissot's as well) is that both brands list the weight of their watches. Something incredibly important that most brands, and watch reviewers don't even bother mentioning for some bizarre reason. Should help when picking out an Omega. I'd say take a serious look at their 150 meters Aqua Terra line. Not just the older Teak dial versions. The newer ones as well. Sports watches with just a bit of dressiness to them. Often comes up when folks talk about getting a One And Done Luxury watch.

As far as COSC and METAS, it's more marketing BS than anything else. Helps in getting customers to buy watches. The guarantees are nice, but go away the very first time you have your watch serviced. No more guarantee after that. However, any competent watch-maker can help regulate any watch to run more accurately.

As far as IWC goes, quality watches across the board to be sure. Customer service? Literally the worst in the luxury watch world. I mean it's not even close. The arrogance, the attitude. Buy an IWC and servicing your watch becomes a nightmare experience fit only for hardcore masochists! They'll service your watch, violate your wallet in the process, and expect you to be grateful to them for having done so.

 

[Bucur]

The nice thing regarding Omega's website (and Tissot's as well) is that both brands list the weight of their watches. Something incredibly important that most brands, and watch reviewers don't even bother mentioning for some bizarre reason. Should help when picking out an Omega. I'd say take a serious look at their 150 meters Aqua Terra line. Not just the older Teak dial versions. The newer ones as well. Sports watches with just a bit of dressiness to them. Often comes up when folks talk about getting a One And Done Luxury watch.

As far as COSC and METAS, it's more marketing BS than anything else. Helps in getting customers to buy watches. The guarantees are nice, but go away the very first time you have your watch serviced. No more guarantee after that. However, any competent watch-maker can help regulate any watch to run more accurately.

As far as IWC goes, quality watches across the board to be sure. Customer service? Literally the worst in the luxury watch world. I mean it's not even close. The arrogance, the attitude. Buy an IWC and servicing your watch becomes a nightmare experience fit only for hardcore masochists! They'll service your watch, violate your wallet in the process, and expect you to be grateful to them for having done so.

The Aqua Terra would be a strong contender, if no date versions were available. However, my Longines Spirit Titanium 42 is also in the One and Done category and I am very happy with it. Your emphasis on luxury is the key for this special occasion case. The higher up you go the more diminishing returns in terms of practical value and sky is the limit. I am therefore trying to either slightly deviate from One and Done category without getting into pure dress watch territory or maybe remaining there but adding some diminishing returns without exaggerating. All this is subjective, for sure. Therefore, objective contributions like yours are very helpful in remaining on the "right" track.

Breitling and Longines are also among those who list the weight of their watches in their websites. The former informs about head only weight as well. IWC does not but the Portugieser Automatic 40 is not heavy at all. I wish I knew more facts about IWC than I know about their reputation. What this very positive reputation is based on is a bit of a mystery for me. I know the story behind the Portugieser series and their pilot watch history but facts about their mechanical prowess is missing for me. This is not a deal breaker but a concern. Thank you for warning me about their customer service. I was not aware. Maybe this is why they feel the need to extend the warranty period to eight years. I don't know how this works over there but at this end, the AD who sells the watch takes care of the logistics. One does not have to get in direct contact with the service department. The points you underlined would have indirect effects but the AD would cushion some, except for the wallet violation phase, of course.

 

[bykfixer]

Saying good nght to the birds:

Rudy the parrot says "good night"

Minimag says "fwee-fwew"

I've had it for a couple of years but hadn't worn it yet.

 

[russprechtl]

Today, it was tuna time. Seiko Tuna.

 

[Monocrom]

The Aqua Terra would be a strong contender, if no date versions were available. However, my Longines Spirit Titanium 42 is also in the One and Done category and I am very happy with it. Your emphasis on luxury is the key for this special occasion case. The higher up you go the more diminishing returns in terms of practical value and sky is the limit. I am therefore trying to either slightly deviate from One and Done category without getting into pure dress watch territory or maybe remaining there but adding some diminishing returns without exaggerating. All this is subjective, for sure. Therefore, objective contributions like yours are very helpful in remaining on the "right" track.

Breitling and Longines are also among those who list the weight of their watches in their websites. The former informs about head only weight as well. IWC does not but the Portugieser Automatic 40 is not heavy at all. I wish I knew more facts about IWC than I know about their reputation. What this very positive reputation is based on is a bit of a mystery for me. I know the story behind the Portugieser series and their pilot watch history but facts about their mechanical prowess is missing for me. This is not a deal breaker but a concern. Thank you for warning me about their customer service. I was not aware. Maybe this is why they feel the need to extend the warranty period to eight years. I don't know how this works over there but at this end, the AD who sells the watch takes care of the logistics. One does not have to get in direct contact with the service department. The points you underlined would have indirect effects but the AD would cushion some, except for the wallet violation phase, of course.

As far as the quality of IWC watches goes, you should have no concerns. Honestly, the only people I know who refuse to buy IWC watches are the same ones who refuse to buy Laco, Wempe, Stowa, and A. Lange & Sohne.... The 5 watch brands that supplied time-pieces to the German military air-force during World War II. (I can understand, as you will never find a Vostok on my wrist. Has nothing to do with quality.)

For others, they just refuse to deal with IWC's attitude. Worst in the industry. Best would be Baume & Mercier.... I just wish they made better quality watches. B&M as Entry-level as it gets for a Luxury watch.

But honestly, if the brand's horrendously awful reputation for customer service isn't an issue for you. Nor the brand's history during the War, I'd say get the watch since quality is not a negative of IWC. In terms of diminishing returns, that's practically EVERY Luxury Watch brand out there. Out of all of the recognized ones. Only certain Rolex, or certain Cartier models are going to hold their value well over the years. Others, you buy them because you enjoy wearing and owning them.

 

[Bucur]

As far as the quality of IWC watches goes, you should have no concerns. Honestly, the only people I know who refuse to buy IWC watches are the same ones who refuse to buy Laco, Wempe, Stowa, and A. Lange & Sohne.... The 5 watch brands that supplied time-pieces to the German military air-force during World War II. (I can understand, as you will never find a Vostok on my wrist. Has nothing to do with quality.)

For others, they just refuse to deal with IWC's attitude. Worst in the industry. Best would be Baume & Mercier.... I just wish they made better quality watches. B&M as Entry-level as it gets for a Luxury watch.

But honestly, if the brand's horrendously awful reputation for customer service isn't an issue for you. Nor the brand's history during the War, I'd say get the watch since quality is not a negative of IWC. In terms of diminishing returns, that's practically EVERY Luxury Watch brand out there. Out of all of the recognized ones. Only certain Rolex, or certain Cartier models are going to hold their value well over the years. Others, you buy them because you enjoy wearing and owning them.

Thank you for broadening my perspective. I now feel better. I was already feeling that IWC would not stay behind in quality but now I feel reassured.

I empathize with those who cannot forget the horror of the World War II but I think that refusing any brand (of watch, car, consumables, anything) based on their history during the War would be an unintentional continuation of the same war, albeit at reduced intensity. On the other hand, since the USA and USSR both fought against the Nazi military, I get it that your dislike of Vostok watches would arguably be based on the subsequent Cold War.

Anyway, IWC's actual bad reputation regarding attitude is valuable information for me. I will look into how this would affect me if I go the IWC route. For instance, I will also visit their mono brand boutique to see how this differs from the multi brand AD where I have been treated quite nicely. For some reason, the Portugieser is getting more and more appealing to me. Do you have any personal or first-hand experience with IWC customer service?

 

[russprechtl]

Today it's my specially molded Seiko Turtle. I like rectangular indices better than dots, so I replaced the stock dial with a luminous deep blue dial. I added a fully luminous bezel for timing in darker areas (helpful for timing medication doses during those 03:30 AM cardiac arrests). I also replaced the metal bracelet with a more comfortable Isofrane Diving Band that snags less on my fire coat.

 

[bykfixer]

Four more arrived today.
Left are two in trade for an Orient Bambino
Right are one I bought and fire right was a gift from the seller

- Left 1974 automatic Timex
- Right 1980's gold plated Belair made watch for McCormick jewelers with all staiinless and saphire crystal. Ronda 715 movement

- Left 1968 Seiko 6105-8079 recently serviced
- Right a 1970's Paul Montigue.

 

[Toulouse42]

My father's Oris watch with Bund strap. The strap is pretty much done so I'm putting it on a NATO for the time being. It keeps stopping so I'm getting it checked out by a watchmaker. I guess a clean and lubrication will sort it out.