What's the best board for driving an MC-E/P7 with 1x 18650?

[Anto]

I've been trying to locate a single-mode board to drive an MC-E or P7 off 1x 18650 but I can't seem to find a good one. I've seen the DX one here but it doesn't look too stellar. The board doesn't have to be the full 2.8A, 2.4 or even 2.2 would be fine, but I'd rather not run off DD. The only other option I saw was to wire up two amc7135 boards, maybe a 1050 & 1400ma one, but some were saying it won't have enough voltage to keep the light in regulation anyway?
Application will be for a weaponlight.


Any suggestions?

 

[jar3ds]

i'm basically going the same route w/ my weapon light... try a maxFlex driving a MC-E in 2S2P at 1.2 amp (600mA to each die) ... on high you are looking at about 50 mins (~2.5A input current)... about 500 lumens...

keep us posted on your project.... what body host are you using?

 

[Anto]

$35... ouch!
This is my first quad core project, I'm using a RC-G4 as the host - a tad bigger than a p60 host & better heatsinking. Light is gonna be mounted via VTAC mount on an ar-15. I ordered the G4 so we'll see what the dimensions are. I might end up using a P7 since they are slightly cheaper & there are some nice reflectors available.

 

[Justin Case]

A 4P MC-E probably would fit the existing reflector without having to bore out the reflector opening to fit the dome. A P7 would most likely be too big and requiring boring of the opening. Both quad LEDs should have low enough Vf at full power (2.8A drive current) to run in regulation using one of the 8xAMC7135-based drivers. I would get an I Vf bin (not J bin) P7 to make sure. You can't specify the Vf bin for the Cree.

If you go with a 2S2P MC-E, the Vf is too high to use an AMC7135 board. You could use a modified Kaidomain ProductID=1640 board. As-is, it delivers 1000mA drive current, which IMO is plenty of drive current. However, with the right selection of SMD sense resistors, you can get it to run at 1400mA drive to run the MC-E at full power. This board is a buck board, so you would need to run the light with 2x16340.

Those might be your best options for low cost. There is a reason why high powered drivers like the Maxflex cost more. They are reliable, well-designed, and supported by the vendor. You generally get what you pay for.

The Maxflex is a boost board. Thus, it is the wrong choice for a 4P MC-E or a P7. You need Vbatt<Vload, which means running the Maxflex with either a 2S2P MC-E or a 4S MC-E and using 1x18650 or 2x123A in your RC-G4. To run a 4P MC-E or a P7 at high power, you can also use a Shark Buck, assuming it will fit in the light. Then, you'd be best off using 2x16340 for your battery configuration.

 

[kosPap]

I've been trying to locate a single-mode board to drive an MC-E or P7 off 1x 18650 but I can't seem to find a good one. I've seen the DX one here but it doesn't look too stellar. The board doesn't have to be the full 2.8A, 2.4 or even 2.2 would be fine, but I'd rather not run off DD. The only other option I saw was to wire up two amc7135 boards, maybe a 1050 & 1400ma one, but some were saying it won't have enough voltage to keep the light in regulation anyway?
Application will be for a weaponlight.


Any suggestions?

litemania.org has a 3.6V input mod with liek AMC7135 chip at 2A of output...

or you can wait till I figure out how to make the Shinning beam MC-E board to singe mode...

 

[jar3ds]

seriously? you own an AR15 and your worried about a $35 driver?! wow... :thumbsdow

 

[Mettee]

The maxflex is a good board and it does its job. I have to add that I had two burn out for an unknown reason, maybe my fault maybe not. I have also used the amc boards...probably over 60 of them, never had one fail. I think in this case the OP is trying to drive one led. The amc would work great for that. I have a P7/tiablo A8/amc multi mode(2.8A) that runs for over an hour with an A123. Seems to run longer than it should but I wont complain.

OP, what light is this combo going into?

If you used 2x1400ma boards you would be good to go, single mode high.

I would solder them differently depending on the application.

Drew

 

[Anto]

Justincase - Thanks for the great info, I think I might be going with a P7 & boring out the reflector.

kosPap - I've read that the litemania board is just a current limiting board w/PWM & the shiningbeam board isn't on the website anymore :|.

jar3ds - I'm not worried about a $35 driver, the point is to keep cost low. As stated, it's my first quad core project so I don't want to fry expensive components while I'm learning. A Wolf-eyes explorer MC-E is $144 and I'm trying to build a light for less than 1/2 the price.


I think I might go for the 2x amc7135 1400ma boards for now, and jump to the maxflex for my 2nd project.

 

[kosPap]

kosPap - I've read that the litemania board is just a current limiting board w/PWM & the shiningbeam board isn't on the website anymore :|.
.

indeed on the litemania.....unless you do not want total regulation i do not see why that is so bad..

in the shiningbeam board...it comes on and off depending on avilability....I had second thoughts about bying some...the day I decided to, they were out of stock...I ahd to wait about3 weeks? PM them