What's the best way to spec out my new SF G3?

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Enlightened
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On a whim tonight, I picked up a SF G3, as I've always been intrigued by the 3-cell SF's, but I couldn't rationalize a C3, after all, that's a good portion of my car payment per month, however, a G3 was within the realm of affordability....

turns out the G3 i got, the only one they had in the store (Kittery Trading Post) was a return, the previous customer's recipt was still in the packaging, and all three cells were *DEAD* (none voltage-tested above .3 volts), looks like the previous owner "rented" the light, and returned it with dead cells :mad:

luckilly, i have a fully loaded spares carrier in the car, so I dropped 3 new cells in, the P90 LA has a nice, wide hotspot, more ovalish than round, and it has a nice, white hotspot, the P90 is a nice LA

problem is, it has the common drawbacks of an unregulated incandescent, it eats up batteries, and grows yellower as the batteries drain, the A2 has *really* spoiled me on that part, I forgot how noticeable the dimming can be when you're used to a regulated incan, but it also has the advantages of incan, excellent color rendition and depth

I really want to see how an ultra-high-performance Lumens Factory bulb and rechargable cell(s) would perform in the G3 (reccomendations?)

I found out that my Lighthound Cree P60-style module works just fine in the G3, and it seems to be somewhat brighter than in the 6P, I'd imagine it'd have better runtime too, however, it has the expected warm tone deficiencies and the tendency to "flatten" the subject endemic to current LED emitters, it's also dimmer than the P90, but it balances that off with a much longer runtime and no tint shift as the batteries drain, it also fits fully inside the G3, wheras there is a small gap between the bezel and body in the 6P when fully tightened down, enough for an o-ring to fit securely in the gap

Hmm, what to do, what to do....

run it on the incan assembly, and deal with the short battery life and unregulated output and dimming to yellow as the batteries drain, but have that wonderfully bright beam, excellent color rendition and depth, and the ability to punch through rain, fog, and snow....

get a Lumensfactory bulb and rechargable(s), for guilt-free-lumens, but still have to deal with the yellowing as the batteries drain

drop in the Lighthound Cree module, and live with the "flattening" effect, essentially build myself a G3L, something not even *SureFire* has made yet...

if I go with option 3, I'll drop the P90 into my 6P and run it on RCR123a's for Guilt-Free Lumens, even if it requires a "double tap" to fire up the bulb (does double-tapping damage the bulb or reduce it's lifespan?)

hmm, what to do, what to do.....

I'm really liking the form factor of the G3, nice, hand-filling size, good balance, incredible durability, and not too weighty thanks to the Nitrolon, heck, if I throw the Lighthound Cree in it, I'll have a true "knock-around" beater light.....
 
With an answer somewhat related to another post you have, I run my 9P with a P90 LA and two 17500 L-ions. It's probably a slight overdrive of the bulb, as the beam seems a little whiter to my eye.

The output curve of a rechargeable L-ion is much flatter and more pleasing than the primaries, the 'yellowing' effect takes longer to occur.
 
what to do with the light should pretty well and determine what you should configure it with... sounds like you already have a 6P... I'd personally keep the LED in that light and use the larger displacement of the G3 to your advantage for pumping up the incan power. Go with a pair of AWs protected 17500 cells and a LumensFactory EO-9 lamp, trust me, you'll like it.... The trick is to just use this as your "KAPOW" light when you really want a heavy hitter for intermittent stuff, and then use the A2 and 6P for other tasks that require drawn out runtimes... The G3 being made of an insulating material is not ideal for an LED module anyways, as the module won't have as much metal to sink heat to. You'll find that if you are only using the G3 a few minutes here and there when you really want or need the oomf, and then just top off the cells after any day you use it, you'll hardly notice the dimming. li-ion can be "topped up" pretty much whenever you want. There is no negative side effect to this, in fact, it extends cycle life when you use shallow cycles on the cells.

does double-tapping damage the bulb or reduce it's lifespan?
probably has no measurable effect on bulb longevity but it DOES reduce the life of the PCB on the cell, so it would be wise to choose a setup that avoids the requirement of a double "tap." The PCB should not be "bumped" up against in regular use, it should be reserved for mistakes, (like tripping off when you accidentally leave the light on for too long, keeping the cells from over-discharging, or preventing a short if something in the light gets crossed up.)..
 
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I would say to get a HO-9 from Lumensfactory for the bright incan route. A Malkoff Q4 (all brass) for the bright Led route. Run primaries if you can. I like a lower output led drop in that can run all night on 1 set of batts like Gene's upcoming 130 Lumen everlast!
 
Get one of the P60Ls' modules when they come out...The lighthound Cree module runs at 750mah, which is kinda hot for the Nirolon body, just so you're aware...

EDIT: Whoa, whats this 130 Lumen everlast? I'm ALL ears...
 
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