What's the brightest single-cell incan?

Mikeg23

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Sep 4, 2006
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823
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Indiana
paulr said:
How about a cut-down Streamlight TL2 with 1xRCR123A and a Strion bulb.
I think the TT1L would accept a Strion bulb, but have no idea if the LEDs could handle it. Still I wouldn’t think that a Strion bulb running off a RCR123A would be all that impressive, though that is purely speculative.
 

Flashdark

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Jul 4, 2004
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USA
FlashInThePan,

I have been sitting here thinking, and the only idea I have that might work is the "Milkyspit MilkMite". Don't laugh. Sir "Milky" is a premium "modder". Everyone on the forum knows him. I have four of his creations - 2 MilkMites, and 2 ML-1s. He has one mod, called a "MilkMite", where he takes the E1e head and discards it, and replaces it with an old, modded, L1 head, which is very slightly longer. By the time he gets through with it, you have a radiation-stickered, nuclear-powered, OH-MY-GOD!, E1e pocket-rocket putting out about 50+ lumens. He estimates quite a bit higher. The only thing that I can tell you is that it puts out a little less light, and does not throw as far as a G2/C2/M2 with a P-60 bulb and fresh batteries, and they tend to exceed 65 lumens in the first 5 minutes or so.

He uses a hand-picked emitter. No luxeon lottery here! You may have some choice in choosing the resulting tint. The beam is "perfect" as is, and does not require an F04. It has VERY good throw AND spill. To give you an idea of HOW good the beam is, I have a beam shaper filter on EVERY Surefire I own, EXCEPT HIS MILKMITE! These things are not cheap and are extremely labor-intensive to build. I think mine were $180 each, plus shipping. Keep in mind that these things are "race horses", and as a result, are a little "twitchy". They demand the right length E1e body, and you have to screw the head down tight to make contact with it. It was only while using these "very particular" heads that I discovered a bad Surefire tail cap with a high resistance in it. After I replaced the tail cap, the light performed flawlessly. I had been using this tail cap for a year and didn't know it was bad! See what I mean?? Very particular about the parts. Once you have the right parts mated up, it runs like a Swiss watch. Milky says that the runtime should be about 40-60 minutes. One of mine slightly exceeds 60 minutes, the other is FAR better and is a "perfect" battery-drainer. It will suck the last electron out of a battery that won't even turn on anything else. Excellent! Because of the power output, the light runs VERY warm if you leave it on for a while. This light is made to be used as a short-duration, sun-gun. My two had a slight variation in tint. One was "warmer" than the other, but both were just fine. I use the "warmer" one all of the time only because of the longer runtime and battery-draining characteristic. The tints are that close. This thing amazes me every time I turn it on.

Send Milky a PM here on the forum. Since he is very much in demand, and has about 10 e-mail addresses, it may take him a day or two to get back to you, but you won't be sorry. If you could tolerate the length of an E2e, I would have recommended his ML-1 mod, where he mods an older Surefire L-1, and doubles or triples the power output.

Hope some of this helps.
Flashdark sends,
Flashdark spends.
 

Paul_in_Maryland

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Mar 27, 2005
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Maryland, USA
Flashdark,
When you wrote "a hand-picked emitter," I got the feeling that you're recommending an LED. The original poster wants an incan.
 

Flashdark

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Jul 4, 2004
Messages
381
Location
USA
Paul in Maryland,

That's true. I am. Incans tend to have a short and fragile lifespan. If you can "have-it-all" with an LED, that's what I recommend.

Flashdark sends.
 
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