What's your favorite UI design on flashlights?

UIs for this sort of thing are more often a negative value, "what do I not want in the UI". For example I don't really care that much about switch types or sizes or whatnot (although if pressed I'd say "mechanical switch on the body right where your thumb would be when you hold it"), but the one thing I never, ever, ever want to see again is those insane multi-model switches where you have to cycle between High, Medium High, Medium, Medium Rare, Well Done, Rare, Medium Low, Low, Strobe, Conga, Waltz, Macarena, SOS, Shave-and-a-Haircut, and Off every time you use it, which it seems like every one I pick up has to show how cool the designers are. High, Low (for long-duration use to save battery), and Off is all you need.
 
For a long time I was a die hard Surefire-Malkoff guy. Until I finally broke down and got a ZebraLight....and then a bit later I got my first Emisar. I can understand people's reluctance to learn Anduril. Looking at the official manual it IS daunting. But the truth is you don't need to learn Anduril (unless you just want to). This is ALL you need to know to use the greatest flashlight UI ever devised (and this applies to v1 and v2):

From OFF:

single click - mode memory
click-hold (starts at bottom of ramp)
click-hold-continue to hold down to increase brightness
let off briefly and repress to reverse direction
double click from OFF or anywhere in the ramp for Turbo

What could be better than an infinite ramped interface?

I used to believe that - until my Narsil, Anduril, Bilbo, Frodo and Barliman Butterbur based lights started reprogramming themselves in my absence. I've had more than one spontaneously switch between smooth and ramped output mode. And my BLF GT Mini is now all but useless as it does nothing but go straight to turbo and then immediately ramp down to moonlight mode. All attempts at resetting it are useless.

Gimme turbo, firefly and three additional well spaced settings in between - maybe a strobe mode if you really want to get crazy - and that's all I need. Having a light that I can program to flash the Fibonacci sequence couldn't possibly interest me less anymore.
 
Rear mechanical switch with half press momentary on. Rear cap side mechanical switch mode change with either mode memory or always on low. Or a magnetic rotary system. Would also like to see sub-lumen low.
 
I really do love my Noctigon KR4 with Anduril, but will take it into work next time one of my team comes up with a very good but overly complicated solution to a simple problem.

Zebralight is pretty much ideal for me.
 
My only issue with the ZL UI is every now and then I will accidentally engage disco mode. I HATE strobe modes. It's the dumbest and most annoying and useless thing ever IMHO.
UIs for this sort of thing are more often a negative value, "what do I not want in the UI". For example I don't really care that much about switch types or sizes or whatnot (although if pressed I'd say "mechanical switch on the body right where your thumb would be when you hold it"), but the one thing I never, ever, ever want to see again is those insane multi-model switches where you have to cycle between High, Medium High, Medium, Medium Rare, Well Done, Rare, Medium Low, Low, Strobe, Conga, Waltz, Macarena, SOS, Shave-and-a-Haircut, and Off every time you use it, which it seems like every one I pick up has to show how cool the designers are. High, Low (for long-duration use to save battery), and Off is all you need.
Literally the worst, actually a waste of time and effort. There has to be a mode memory. Low medium high. Something like .1-10-100+
 
My next light is almost certainly going to be a Fenix PD36 TAC, because in addition to its excellent UI, its Eco power mode of 30 lumens is rated to run 160 hours on a fully-charged 21700. Its Low power mode of 150 lumens goes over 18.5 hours, and its Medium 350 lumen mode runs over 10 hours, all of these with completely flat discharge/brightness curves.

And goddess forbid I should ever need to use it, but its Tactical Hi power mode starts up at 2000 lumens, and will run at about 750 lumens for over 3 hours, once it settles down. I'm much more interested in the actually sustained brightness level than in the maximum startup brightness.

It's the 30 lumen mode I want most, followed by the 150 lumen mode. And since the PD36 TAC in Duty mode always starts up in Eco mode, with Low mode a half press away, it's a perfect light for when I need something more than my single AA E12.
 
- tail switch
- mechanical switch for on/off (= no standby drain!)
- forward clicky
- no memory mode! on = high (always)
- half press for mode changes
- tail-stand-able
Any examples?
 
Any examples?
here
- mechanical switch for on/off (= no standby drain!)
and
- half press for mode changes
exclude each other. Although, it can be done, something like a rotary switch that is simultaneously clicky, or a forward click with a very long travel to unlock and in the way of this travel there will be more contacts that will switch modes. But it will either be too big for a handheld flashlight, or small and unreliable, or reliable and very expensive...
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I like different control options depending on the task. HDS and Zebra are very well done, but I don't like that you can't switch to the right mode right away. For example, from L1 to M2 if M1 was enabled. Therefore, I made 3 modes on the zebra - H1=H2, M1=M2, L1=L2. Also on HDS - B=C.

In terms of control, the Dominator is almost perfect for me. The modes are selected by the ring, pressing 1 of the three buttons turns on one of the modes:
• Press left switch for constant-on activation of the output/strobe set with the selector ring.
• Press middle switch for momentary-on activation of the output/strobe set with the selector ring.
• Press right switch for MaxBlast™ feature, which delivers maximum output no matter which output
level is set with selector ring.
It would be nice to add 1 function to the left button - if you hold it for a long time, then it turns on the maximum from current mode, if you release it, it returns to the current mode. If you use the right button, then after releasing the flashlight is off and to turn it constant on, you need to press the left button again.
 
As I said before my favorite is a slider with a detent for signaling but Coleman came out with one I like even better. A slider with a detent for low output then foward to high. When member @greenpondmike spoke of that one here I said outloud "oh be still my beating heart, the grail is amongst us". The low on the one I bought is 4 lumens and high is 250. Trouble is it's not very sturdy.
Somebody please do a sturdy version (hint hint xtar).
 
Though funzel mentioned no memory, starting in high is madness. Though I have never quite seen it, I prefer a 3 mode mechanical tactical forward clicky with no memory, firefly 0.05Lm, low 12Lm, turbo 160Lm or whatever, 1000Lm, but always starting in the lowest mode, firefly.

The neat thing about no memory starting on the lowest mode is you can switch back and forth between the two lowest modes saving battery, but turbo is there when you need it. Also, 12Lm to about 18Lm is as bright as you can get without destroying dark adaptation in close quarters with reflective surfaces, and preserving that can mean life or death when you don't know your surroundings and only have one light and one cell. Tripping in the dark is the number one killer of flashaholics. Save a life and always carry two lights.
 
Clickie switch with a level ring is perfect for me. Not very many lights out there like that, so I'm still using my OG U2 from two decades ago and a Streamlight Stinger 2020. Anyone currently make a smaller (like single cell) light that'll go ~10 lumens on low to 100+ on high with a half dozen steps?
 
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