Where to get a 2 Pos switch about 12mm round or less?

[VidPro]

I was almost finished with my David19 aspehrical mod, and damaged the switch in the tailcap, i do have a backup using the david15's tailcap, but i figured it now has become time to FINISH it up, by having 2 levels.

the tailcap has about 12mm of round space, and ample height for about anything, it should be a 3amp type a switch, 1 amp max will be running through it.
you know an on1-off-on2-off
or a on1-on2-off

 

[VidPro]

ok ok, here is your ruddy pics
this poor light has been modded so many times, they need to stop changing leds on me .

its one of these thing, 2.5oz total, the asperical lens added a bit to the weight. there was nothing wrong with the original optic, and it worked ok with the Cree, but i wanted to stop the Spill , mainly.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/coast_round-up.htm#LL7847

there it is Glowing, after a glow charge

i shred what was left of the original, this thing had been modded before.
i had to HEAT up the head, Viciously agressivly torched it on the stove, that is why it has a different texture now.

you can see the asperical lens jammed into the end

the heat sinc (or whats left of it ) is turned upside down, so to achieve the focal distance for the lens.
then a cree emitter is Soldered into it, after reaming off the positive connetion underneath.

a resisters legs are covered in heat shrink, and passed through to what used to be the emitter side.
( the lux3 emitter i had in there, was stuck down so good, i just burned it out on the stove)

the other side of the resister is covered with heat shrink insulation, and its jammed (literally) into the emitter hole

the curcuit board, which has had all its parts and pieces tossed out long ago, i am looking for a place that connects to the spring.

Connected the resister to the point that goes to the + side of the battery via the spring

ya like that, or somethin

test it 400 times, then ened up shorting it out anyways, and slap the sucker together, tune it up a bit, and there it is. 60W incadescent resessed lighting in the hall there, and the color of it comparabley (to the camera)

some shot up the stairs, to a PIC, past the led xmas lights. its about 20 feet away

it is being compared to a standard MAG 2D focused as sharp as it goes.
its driven at about 2W.

shooting across the room, cant guess which is the mag huh
mostly there is only the round spill you see in the last pic, the banister is being light up by 2 x60w hall bulbs not the light.


ohh, hey would help to know the power source
its a simple resistered Li-Ion 14500 , runs forver, with dwindling output. its really hot for a long time, and basically never dies, just gets dimmer and dimmer, then ya recharge it.

remember this light is only 100mm long, and 23mm wide at the head, just a bit fatter (at the head) then a fenix.
hey fenix, duhh, how about i campare it to it too.

 

[VidPro]

ok the MOD vs the Fenix L1T (3W) on high with lithium battery

the MOD is Always on the LEFT, the fenix on the right

both CLOSE hitting the wall so you can see the spill pattern
(ya ya the camera sux, but i aint setting up 3 tripods)

further away, the spill on the aspherical is the round section on the left, the square is always its Spot. the camera no longer shows the spill that the fenix has going on on the right.
notice how the SPOT on the fenix is medium sized compared to the SPILL on the aspherical.

lots further away unadjusted, sorry Mr Reflector , master of poor regulation, you aint the throw master

ok crank up the pic in photoshop, so you can at least see the big ball of light that fenix is doing.

 

[VidPro]

ok i looked at data sheets and adobee reader catalogs all night long, for a switch. and there is only the 1/2 inch square things, which i have one still.
i tried to round off the edges, and got really close, it Almost fit, but was barely holding together.

sooo mabey i need to downgrade, a single pole switch that will fit in a 12mm hole.
from my reasearch it seems that it would be called a "PCB mount" thing, NOT momentary , and getting 500ma in that size is par.

i did find a "digi-tac" which is the same thing at REI for only 20$ i could get a tailcap for, but after taxes and shipping, thats 30$ for a dang switch, uggg

 

[VidPro]

Amasing, the long lost but not forgotten "Nite_Izs" "IQswitch" is a 5position switch that cross threads onto the David 15 or 19, digitac thing.
it does not go all the way on, but the gap can be filled with Glow-O-Rings or something?
but it works amasingly well. originally for a INCAN mag, it seems to be handling the power just fine, giving me 3 adequite levels, and 2 worthless strobe modes AND a momentary.
not only that but its now selling for only7$
a deal at twice the price.
and it uses 1000htz PWM, so that must be why i didnt see any flickerin.

 

[VidPro]

some readings from the nitize
my resistered amps, on one setup shows 500ma with the meter leads, thats about 600-650 without the leads. it goes to 390ma on high with the nitize inbetween.
sooo, me thinks that i can dump the resistance altogether and just use the resistance inherant to the nitize.

i may have just found the best place for a nitize to exist.
with a simple cree, and li-?? battery the resistance it needs to do it trick, is just about right for the resistance I need to do my trick

 

[VidPro]

OOOPS, Really BAD idea, while it acts like it will work, i had not noticed or thought about the voltage.
Niteize does NOT work for led and li-ion.
back to the drawing board.

so it worked great till the voltage of the power source goes below 3.7, i assume it needs about .4 or .5 volts to operate, and the LED gate itself isnt going to trigger at some voltage, so without a resiter across the led gate itself, its not gonna do it.
it would still trigger as-low-as 3.3V BUT the power source had to be removed then replaced, which would certannly drive anyone right up the wall

Bad idea #8,138,392

 

[VidPro]

Just to test my theory of adding a bit of resistance so the nitize will work with the Resistered type of led, even though the led gate is not triggered, i added in a tiny trimmer pot, and added small itsey bitsy bits of resistance, while that does not make the "locator" light operate normally there is enough power to trigger a turn on, and adjust. once the turn on occurs, then the locator light is able to function.

at 40k ohms of resistance added to the led, the nitize would operate down to 3.2v, and of course with so little resistance there is no noticable ammount of draw when the power turns on and the 40k of resistnace is there.

so mabey a 22k resister added , do a little math junk and that would be far less than 1% of the total draw from the led. (sombody else can do the real math)

soooo, parellel a tiny bit of resisistance with the led, so the niteIzes can trigger, before the Led gate does. then it should work. 22K = 22,000 very leetel
but remember i thought it was gonna before :-(

ahh there is just some things that the drawing board doesnt see, reality always does.