Where to get good light head?

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bobmirko

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Sep 11, 2009
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Hi, I plan to build a serious dive light. But where can I find a serious light head that can hold enought place to put a good heatsink inside?

Thanks to help!
 

bobmirko

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Sep 11, 2009
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MagLite seem to be a good option but I do not find real good quality lens for it. Also, it is possible to get a 1D maglite somewhere?

Thanks!
 
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Packhorse

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Nov 29, 2007
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New Zealand
MagLite seem to be a good option but I do not find real good quality lens for it. Also, it is possible to get a 1D maglite somewhere?

Thanks!


Yes, get a 2D 3D 4D 5D 6D maglight and cut it to size.
Or even better get a C mag. These are deeper in the head and allow a thicker heat sink.

As for lens just go to your local plastics manufacture and order one. Mine cost me $5 or less. Mc Master Carr also do glass 2inch lenses. These should fit.
 

DaFABRICATA

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Jan 10, 2007
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OOooops!!!

I only read the title of the thread and didn't see "light" in there!

read between the lines..totally different subject.:ohgeez:
 

wquiles

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Jan 10, 2005
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Texas, USA, Earth
Hi, I plan to build a serious dive light. But where can I find a serious light head that can hold enought place to put a good heatsink inside?

Thanks to help!

The problem with heatsinks in lights is not so much the size, but what happens to the heat as it is removed from the hot LED - where does the heat goes? If the heat can't escape the light faster than it is being generated, the LED, heatsink, and the complete light will continue to increase in temperature until a steady state is found and/or until the LED fries/dies. Not only this is bad for the LED's longevity, but it also lowers the effective lumens output of the LED - LED's are normally rated at 25C - that is a fairly low temp, and only achieve under controlled laboraroty conditions. Not only that, but there is also the comfort factor: how hot can I light get before you are not wanting to keep holding it? In my personal experience that limit is around 8-10 watts, usually after 10 minutes of use. Of course, lights with even higher power levels reach this uncomfortable level much sooner/quicker.

On a hand held light, the heat goes to the air (terrible thermal transfer - that is why all CPU heatsinks require fans or forced air) or to our blood (if we are holding the light with our bare hands). However, for a diving light, as long as the heatsink is making good thermal contact with the water outside the light (hopefully you are using a metal head and thermal paste between the heatsink and the metal head) the size of the heatsink is not as critical as the ability of the cooler ocean water to remove heat is fantastic compared to air. Again, going back to the CPU analogy, that is why all high power ultra clock speeds are only possible when using a water-cooled CPU system.

My point after this too-long post: don't stress about a large/huge heatsink for a diving light - good thermal path to the cool ocean water is much more important.

Will
 

bobmirko

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Sep 11, 2009
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I don't want a large heatsink, but just a heatsink to transfert the heat to the body of the light.
 

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