Which SureFire? A noob is confused.

[kurni]

I am approaching this curiosity very carefully

I want to know more about SureFire because I love durable lego.

Which SureFire model has the widest standard? I heard about "P60 standard" and overwhelmed by the many models of SureFire. I also heard about Shoppe GDuP and Aleph; as well as Malkoff. There are just so many bits and pieces in my head that I cannot put together.

The bottomline is that I'm looking for a little brother for my M@g D mods; obviously being smaller than M@g D; there will be less options of mods / drop-ins, but I'm looking for a SureFire model that has the most mod / drop-ins possibility. I am leaning towards 1 or 2 RCR123 (or one 18650).

It is very unlikely that I will use the SureFire as it is; my intention is to find a SureFire LED mod host. I'm guessing that I would be able to buy SureFire incan and do a LED mod, or buy a LED drop-in.

I might regret asking this question because I've heard that SureFire bug bits hard

PS: what does "mule" mean? The dictionary definition does not make any sense.

Thanks in advance,
Kurni

 

[Norm]

I think "Mule" generally means a light with a bare LED no optic or reflector is used to focus the light.
Norm

 

[Tempest UK]

I am approaching this curiosity very carefully

I want to know more about SureFire because I love durable lego.

Which SureFire model has the widest standard? I heard about "P60 standard" and overwhelmed by the many models of SureFire.

P60 is the name of the lamp assembly used in several of SureFires models - most notably the 6P. Bezels, tailcaps and lamp assemblies* are interchangeable between the P, C, G and M** series SureFires.

*Be careful about the voltage being used when lego-ing SureFires.
**Only some of the M series is compatible with P/C/G series. The heads of the M3/M3T/M4/M6 are not compatible. The tailcaps, and the bezel of the M2 are compatible, however.

A 6P is generally a very good place to start if you want to start exploring the possible combinations with other SureFire parts.

EDIT - as you specified no more than one RCR123/CR123a size battery, that instantly limits you to little more than SureFire's E series - and only some of it at that. You could start with an E1e, purchase a KX1 LED head and go from there. It is worth mentioning that the E series isn't drop-in friendly in the same way as the 6P. It is really quite limiting.

Regards,
Tempest

 

[kurni]

Thanks Norm; that means mule torches can have very small footprint. Now Sgt. Led glow disk is very-very tempting.

Tempest, I meant that my preference is between 1 RCR123 to 2 RCR123 or one 18650; I don't prefer CR2 / AA / AAA or anything smaller. I'm trying to use at least 1000mAh LiIon (if possible) so I might be open to bigger-than-18650 size if it means that I have more mod / drop-in possibilities. I'm updating my 1st post to clarify what I meant.

I'm browsing SF website atm... 6P is attractively priced; unfortunately M6 is outside my budget.

 

[Tempest UK]

unfortunately M6 is outside my budget.

All in good time

Regards,
Tempest

 

[kurni]

All in good time

That's my fear; I can recall saying that FM mods were outside my budgets but :sigh:

Does M6 have any LED drop-ins / custom heatsink that I can use for multi LEDs / space for a driver board?

Thanks,
Kurni

 

[Tempest UK]

I believe some LED towers have been made for the Millennium TurboHeads (M3T, M4, M6) but I don't have any experience with them.

The 6P is certainly a better platform for lego, even if it doesn't have quite the same "wow" factor as the M6. But you can always get a KT TurboHead for the 6P to give it some more throw.

Regards,
Tempest

 

[generic808]

The 6P is THE standard when it comes to Surefire Lego's. You can convert it to a 9P, 12P, or whatever P you want with the addition of an extender.

And yes, the bug bites harder than you would believe. My "obsession" started with a G2 then worked its way all the way through the line-up to my recent purchase of an M6. Now the BEAST is all that awaits me :devil:

 

[jumpstat]

From SF, there is the E series. Then the M series line. This refers to the fittings. There are more 3rd party offerings for the E series than the M series lights. Physically the M series are bulkier than the E series. Both are exceptional.......

All the information that you need is readily available in the forums threads. All you need is time to do your search for the info. Pick wisely. Always pick the light for your needs not the other way around. Each SF lights have their virtues and are designed to meet specific needs of the user. It can get pretty expensive to try them all.

 

[Crenshaw]

Surefires are pretty much totally Lego-able, you just have to find the right adaptors.

For example, i saw a Turbo Head on an E to C on a E2E body once, on bst, awsome looking light.

At the moment, im going nuts about E series Lego-ability.

I have a TnC AA maxlite Body (the last one there i might add:nana: ) on the way, along with my L1 Creemator being built. Also in the process of aquireing a E series tail cap. I might get a nite core extreme too so i can lego the head. I will also need to get an E2E body to run 17640 type batteries in for longer run time.

If theres one thing i pick surefires for over fenixs, is thier modular design.

Crenshaw

 

[adamlau]

9P, or C3 will offer the moxt flexibility with 3xCR123A and 2x17500.

 

[Crenshaw]

9P, or C3 will offer the moxt flexibility with 3xCR123A and 2x17500.

2 x 14500 too..

Crenshaw

 

[precisionworks]

A 6P is generally a very good place to start

I also like the 6P, as the 6 volt format lends itself to different applications (like Malkoff M60, M60L, M60LL, M60LF, + all the other similar dropins), plus a number of twistie & clickie tailcaps, plus the awesome parts from Leef, etc.

I have one 6P standard, one 6PD with 2-stage twistie & M60, and four G2s with M60LL ... and they don't cost a lot

 

[RGB_LED]

+1 for either the SF 6-series or E-series of lights. I started my collection with two E-series lights as I liked the ability to customize and buy after-market parts for it. Recently, I've been thinking about ordering the NiteCore Extreme as the head is compatible with the E-series bodies. :thumbsup: But, I also recently purchased a 6PD and added a Malkoff M60 drop-in which is fantastic! I'm now stopping myself from going all-out with 6P after-market mods and accessories.

If theres one thing i pick surefires for over fenixs, is thier modular design.
Crenshaw

SF may have more accessories and choices but Fenix also offers some lego'ing of parts... ie. you can use a P2D head with 1AA or 2AA body as well as the stock 1CR123 body. Fenix-Store also offers after-mkt bodies to go with the P2D / P3D heads. I have used my P2D with a 1CR123 body as EDC and a 1AA body as a back-up when camping.

The only weakness is that the LED is not easily accessed so there's little option for easy swapping of 'pills'. But that also applies to the SF E-series LED lights as well.

 

[Crenshaw]

SF may have more accessories and choices but Fenix also offers some lego'ing of parts... ie. you can use a P2D head with 1AA or 2AA body as well as the stock 1CR123 body. Fenix-Store also offers after-mkt bodies to go with the P2D / P3D heads. I have used my P2D with a 1CR123 body as EDC and a 1AA body as a back-up when camping.

The only weakness is that the LED is not easily accessed so there's little option for easy swapping of 'pills'. But that also applies to the SF E-series LED lights as well.

I do agree with you on that, but i have never been able to justify buying the P2D/P3D or the L1D/L1T etc models, i have my P1D from the P series, and its almost as bright as my Friend's P3D, and if i want bright, i can use either my T1 or Tk10..that said, i love the P3D's form factor! im very sorely tempted to get one.

But this is probably the first time you'll ever see me saying surefire over fenix...cos thier lights can be legoed in sooooo many differnt ways, its just plain FUN!

of course, surefire legoing is helped along in no small way by the sheer amount of third party comepetible parts for it.



that said...my P1D Q5 is riding along with me again, i have a new found appreciation for how small it is compared to the L1, thier both with me now..

Crenshaw

EDIT: anyone have a dead P1D head? looking to mod one, i do have a wtb up, but its kinda barren.

 

[kurni]

Thanks Tempest UK and jumpstat; I now have a general understanding about P, C and E series. precisionworks and especially generic808 :thumbsup: pushed my interest towards 6P. Crenshaw and RGB_LED like E series, but I'm under impression that P series is easier to mod e.g. disassembling the reflector, wider bezel, Malkoff drop-in, and the practical FM34 flip diffuser.

adamlau raised an interesting LiIon possibility; at the moment I'm interested in being able to replace 2x16340 by AW17670 without any boring. Could someone confirm if AW17670 will fit because it might might be 1 mm wider than 16340?

I'm leaning toward 6P, perhaps I should join milkyspit long queue; this makes me I notice it's E2L body but I'm guessing that such mod is possible with 6P.

I will still EDC my P2D; I'm just cautiously curious about SureFire particularly because of its build quality as well as its standardised modular design (e.g. Leef).

Thanks everybody :thumbsup:
Kurni

PS: Crenshaw, the most interesting part of your lego is that white label on the head

 

[RGB_LED]

kurni, I like my E-series lights for its size and durability but they are in storage at the moment as I realized that I found multi-level lights more useful. That may change when my NiteCore Extreme arrives and I can swap out the head and use it on my E1 or E2 bodies. :naughty:

Also, I thought I'd mention that I also like the SF 6P as it's highly customizable and, as Crenshaw mentioned, there are a lot of after-market parts for it... speaking of which, I have a Malkoff M60 drop-in in my 6P. As for batteries, the input voltage for the M60 is 3.8-9v so you can run it w/ two RCR123's / 16340's or one 17670... which fits perfectly in my 6P. Btw, I have one of Eric's polished SF 6P's and they are beautiful.

I also run 2xRCR123's and have a AW 17670 as back-up... the draw-back w/ the 17670 is that it will drop quickly out of regulation and run direct drive when the battery drops below 3.8v. But I'm looking at getting an Malkoff M30 which is Gene's drop-in that is optimized for a single-cell 3.7v Li-Ion battery - you can look for some threads on the M30.

Btw, I also edc'd a Fenix P2D-Q5, up until last week when my NiteCore EX10 arrived. The EX10 is now my edc on a test basis... :thumbsup:

I do agree with you on that, but i have never been able to justify buying the P2D/P3D or the L1D/L1T etc models, i have my P1D from the P series, and its almost as bright as my Friend's P3D, and if i want bright, i can use either my T1 or Tk10..that said, i love the P3D's form factor! im very sorely tempted to get one.

But this is probably the first time you'll ever see me saying surefire over fenix...cos thier lights can be legoed in sooooo many differnt ways, its just plain FUN!

of course, surefire legoing is helped along in no small way by the sheer amount of third party comepetible parts for it.

that said...my P1D Q5 is riding along with me again, i have a new found appreciation for how small it is compared to the L1, thier both with me now..

Crenshaw

EDIT: anyone have a dead P1D head? looking to mod one, i do have a wtb up, but its kinda barren.

True that it's a bit pricey buying Fenix parts as I've discovered... The sad part is that, as soon as I had all my Fenix lego parts, I discovered NiteCore and a shiny new SF 6P... Now, most of my Fenix lights are sitting on the bench...

And, you're right that there are a TON of aftermarket SF parts that I'm trying to stop myself from buying... Btw, what's with the tape in the middle of your SF??

 

[gswitter]

Thanks Tempest UK and jumpstat; I now have a general understanding about P, C and E series. precisionworks and especially generic808 :thumbsup: pushed my interest towards 6P. Crenshaw and RGB_LED like E series, but I'm under impression that P series is easier to mod e.g. disassembling the reflector, wider bezel, Malkoff drop-in, and the practical FM34 flip diffuser.

But, what exactly is your goal?

The 6P is a good place to start, and very easy to mod, but all of the mods you list above can be used with an E-series host as well (using an E2C adapter).

 

[Crenshaw]

And, you're right that there are a TON of aftermarket SF parts that I'm trying to stop myself from buying... Btw, what's with the tape in the middle of your SF??

cos thats a detonator Extender, and an L1. I discovered that the body fits inside the detonator extender, but it didnt screw in, so i just taped it there for that picture. It worked! but i dont keep it that way..haha

Crenshaw

 

[kurni]

The 6P is a good place to start, and very easy to mod, but all of the mods you list above can be used with an E-series host as well (using an E2C adapter).

:sick2: this is a platform for Frankensteins

But, what exactly is your goal?

I want a small version of M@g host without giong totally I pick SureFire because I'm a sucker for build quality; furthermore, having read so many positive comments about SureFire, I just have to have one. I'm under impression that the head of 6P can easily be taken off and gutted. The easiest would be to drop a Malkoff in the head without having to buy additional adapter, or (please be kind, I'm a noob) if possible put GD1000 to make a mule I don't know if this is possible, without any dimension specs it's almost impossible to come up with a realistic mod idea; perhaps the first step would be to have a 6P in front of me

I guess if I want a sure-fire mod I should join milkyspit queue