Who got their LD01 Stainless Steel?

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WadeF said:
I think I know why I really love my LD01 SS. It reminds me of my Victorinox stuff, like the Swiss Tool, Swiss Tool Spirit, etc. Slap a Victorinox logo on it and they could package it with their multitools. 🙂 Maybe I should take a picture of it with my Swiss Tools...
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Wade -- Taking a picture of your LD01_SS with your Victorinox Swiss tools sounds like a great idea to me! :thumbsup:

-Clive
 
i noticed many of u guys polish ure SS LD01..
but how do u guys get rid of the excess polish that get stuck in the line on the head of the light??
 
man, the SS LD01 is the only Fenix i cant seem to open.
i blasted it quite a few times with a butane torch, wrapped two strips
of grip tape around the head to build up the diameter and
used two strap wrenches.. no go. 😗

anyone have luck opening this thing?
 
My LD01ss had flickering issues and I'm currently waiting for a replacement. I offered another one to my wife, we both love the light and the beam!

As I heard however, the aluminium LD01 has an even better beam. I got the offer to change my ss for an aluminium one, so I checked the beam of my wifes' light another time before I thanked the dealer for the offer but held on to the ss. I can't do a comparison, I even didn't compare it to my LD04, I just love the stainless steel on this one and as it'll meet my keys, I preffer minor scratches to destroyed black anodization, which looks awfull...
 
dioragry said:
I noticed many of you guys polish your SS LD01's...but how do you guys get rid of the excess polish that gets stuck in the line on the head of the light???
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Dioragry -- By using a soft toothbrush. Furthermore, after polishing, I follow-up by applying a coat (or two) of Meguiar's cleaner wax, then remove the dried wax with a clean, 100% cotton tee shirt ... using a soft toothbrush to remove any remaining traces of wax from the nooks & crannies (crevices 😀). Finally, using another clean, 100% cotton tee shirt, I continue to polish the living hell out of the torch 'till it shines. :thumbsup:

-Clive
 
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do you guys run the 10440 in the ss model?

I think I'm going to get one, ps I hate scratched/worn black finish on anything; that's why all of my knifes are satin finish
 
MWClint said:
man, the SS LD01 is the only Fenix i cant seem to open.
i blasted it quite a few times with a butane torch, wrapped two strips
of grip tape around the head to build up the diameter and
used two strap wrenches.. no go. 😗

anyone have luck opening this thing?
Click to expand...

clicky
 
Jay R said:
Yes, though I've only run it for a max of 5min on high so far. Gets quite warm quickly which shows that the heat trasfer is good.
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5 minutes on Turbo? I'd be more careful with the SS version as it won't transfer heat as well as the aluminum LD01. So by the time the SS feels warm/hot, the Cree maybe getting too hot. I get nervous running my LOD Q4 on Turbo for more than 30 seconds with a 10440. 🙂
 
Mine arrived today and I was really looking forward to it. But, after 3 minutes of use, I'm sorry to say I'm sending it back. Don't get me wrong, I love the light and it is much brighter than my trusty L0D.

The problem is that the head is too loose. It wobbles and if a bit of pressure is put on the light, it turns on. This presents a huge problem for me as I keep it in my front pants pocket and it would be coming on when I sit down. This is eerily similar to the problems with the P1D CE when it first came out, probably a production problem.

Anyhow, wish I could say that it was a keeper, but unfortunately not.

But that aside, it's an awesome little light. I believe I'm going to request a refund and then purchase one down the road when this issue is resolved. My concern is that if I opt for a replacement, it will have the same problem. They eliminated the strobe and SOS modes and I'm glad they did.

47's has been great with all my past purchases and I will continue to purchase from them in the future.

So, if you have one on the way, check it out, because it's really noticable, I can feel the head wiggle back and forth. The first thing that led to my checking this is it seemed lose when I would turn it on and off, the L0D is nice and tight.
 
coppertrail said:
the head is too loose. It wobbles and if a bit of pressure is put on the light, it turns on. This presents a huge problem for me as I keep it in my front pants pocket and it would be coming on when I sit down. This is eerily similar to the problems with the P1D CE when it first came out, probably a production problem.
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My LD01 is very solid. No wobble. If I loosen it by only 1/6th of a turn it won't come on. I got it from 4Sevens. Oh, and I swapped out the 2 o-rings that came with the LD01 for an L0P spare o-ring which is a little smaller and makes the head easier to turn. But for me it's still a 2-handed operation.

I bought 3 P1D-CEs, and the last one had a loose head. I sent it back for a refund and gave up on Fenix and twistys in general until the LD01 came along. The point being that it's not a production problem that will go away if you wait awhile. It seems to be some kind of unpredictable variation from light to light. So I would encourage you to buy another LD01 from 4Sevens because he has the best warranty and service. You could get one on eBay, but it may be more difficult to return if you get a green tint or a loose head.
 
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Hi LightScene -

That's good to know. My only concern about getting a replacement is he may have received a bad batch due to a problem with machining. If I recall correctly, there were quite a few folks who had loose heads when the first batch of P1Ds came out.

Maybe I will opt for a replacement. If that wobbles as well, I'll wait a while. But, based on what I've seen, I can definitely see this a being a great replacement to the L0D CE 🙂
 
WadeF said:
5 minutes on Turbo? I'd be more careful with the SS version as it won't transfer heat as well as the aluminum LD01.
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I keep seeing people saying this, but I'm skeptical. The SS does get warm quickly on high, and it obviously has considerably more mass than the aluminum body, so it should be able to absorb a lot more heat. The fact that aluminum conducts heat faster only makes it a better heat sink if you have a fan. It must depend on how much air flow is involved and whether your hand is acting as a heat sink (which is not the case if you are wearing gloves). Anyway, for the time being I'm not convinced that it's much of an issue. But I have no reason to leave it on high for any length of time. Medium is plenty bright for my needs - I'm guessing around 85 lumens.
 
Fenix SS LDO1

Well i truly love this little light BUT i wish it had ONLY High as its 1 st stage and low as a second stage( no medium) also since I,m complaining a twisty for staying on and a small clicky button for instant on.It would then be perefect. Just my thoughts.
 
Re: Fenix SS LDO1

Not a new suggestion of course but it definitely needs a lower low IMO. For a keychain/pocket light it really needs a level where you can use it say in a movie theatre and not blind yourself or disturb others. I was in a movie once and something fell out of my jacket part way through the movie. Having a light with a low low was very handy because I could see what I was looking for and I did not bother anyone. The levels on the LD01 are not spaced appropriately. For the form factor I'd be happy with two levels, a low around 3 lumens and a high of 20+ lumens.
 
Re: Fenix SS LDO1

a lower low for that 8 hour runtime they were advertising... I don't mind the medium setting first because most of the time it is fine for me and doubles the runtime vs high
 
Re: Fenix SS LDO1

The output spacing should be #1 priority with a real low of no more than 3 lumens, although I'd be much happier with 1 lumen, followed by 8 and 70. I also would like to see the low be the first level and definitely do not like the idea of losing the mid setting; just get the balance between the levels right. :thumbsup:
 
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