why isnt 18650 6v or 7.4volts? Why is it only 3.7v for example

roopeseta

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
56
How does this thing go?

If i have a flashlight that uses 2x cr123 and it is 3v each battery, isnt it then 6v? But how can the same lamp work with 1x 18650 that is for example 3.7v? If the lamp needs the 6v then how can the 3.7v power it? It has more mah in it but isnt the voltage only 3.7 or 3v? (depends what kind of a 18650)

Or is 2x cr123 3 volt batteries really 3v when they enter the lamp? and not 6v? What am i missing here?:<<
 
Last edited:
You don't say what light you have. My guess is that it is a regulated LED light which can operate on 3.7-6v.

There is some voltage sag when the light is running. For example, the CR123As may drop from 3V each to 2.5V, making 5V total.

Using a single 18650, the voltage sag will be less. as it is a more powerful cell. Bear in mind also that fully charged, it is 4.2V, so the difference is not as great as you think. In any case, LED lights usually have voltage regulators to deal with these variations.

A 6V unregulated incan lamp, designed for 2x CR123A, will run on a single 18650, but you will notice that the beam is not as white.
 
So the voltage regulators will make up for the missing volts coming from the batter? So thats why i can use a 18650 even if its lower volts than 2x cr123? Because the regulators make it to the right voltage? Ahaa ok now i understand.

But will 2x cr123 be brighter than 1x 18650. I mean do the regulators really juice it up usually to the right voltage or does it give some percentages more light if the batteries give 6v (2x cr123) instead of what 18650 gives?


I dont have any lights now. The one i had went broke. Im buying new ones, probably fenix T1 and p1d q5 thing.

Do you know if those lamps work with 3.7v rcr123a? ("a" letter was for low voltage protection i think if i remember right)
 
This is my half assed guess:

If you unassemble a battery you'll see it's composed of rolled up pads of electrolyte, with one side being catnode and other being anode. The chemistry of whatever is inside determines the voltage, and physically bigger battery utilizing the same chemistry just have bigger pads rolled into it. So it has more capacity, but due to the same chemistry it's still the same voltage.
 
There is plenty of info on small LED lights in the LED Flashlights sub-forum. The Fenix lights you mention are very popular and are good value. The full range is stocked by Fenix-Store.

You will need to check it is OK to use a light with R123 Li-Ion rechargeable cells - with some lights this will be OK, but in others you will cook the LED fairly quickly and it will eventually burn out.

CR123A = lithium primary (not rechargeable).
R123 or RCR123 = Lithium-Ion rechargeable cell.
The "a" does not signify a protected cell.
 
This is my half assed guess:

If you unassemble a battery you'll see it's composed of rolled up pads of electrolyte, with one side being catnode and other being anode. The chemistry of whatever is inside determines the voltage, and physically bigger battery utilizing the same chemistry just have bigger pads rolled into it. So it has more capacity, but due to the same chemistry it's still the same voltage.
Don't talk about disassembling batteries without a big fat "THEORY ONLY. DO NOT EVER ATTEMPT THIS" disclaimer, especially to newbies.
They might want to see if you're right and set fire to their home. :p
 
I dont have any lights now. The one i had went broke.
I think maybe it was your light that broke after you put two RCR123's into it? Remember it probably broke because you put the 7.4 V from the two RCR's into a light that wasn't designed to take that much voltage and you fried the electronics.

It's really not a good idea to experiment by putting different batteries from normal into a flashlight to see if it works. Even if it seems to work, it might not work for long. You need to stick to what the manufacturer advises, or go with tried and tested recommendations from others that have looked into it.
 
Yea my old lamp broke because it was too high voltage. It was palmblaze k2

What battery is 17670? I dont know for 100% sure.
 
Yea my old lamp broke because it was too high voltage. It was palmblaze k2

What battery is 17670? I dont know for 100% sure.

It's the size of two CR123's end to end, but it's like the 18650 and only 3.7v.

Some lights work fine with the wide range of voltages, some lights are very picky.
 
Ok, i thought that 18650 is the size of 2 cr123. Am i wrong again or whats the difference with 17670 and 18650?:stupid:
 
Ok, i thought that 18650 is the size of 2 cr123. Am i wrong again or whats the difference with 17670 and 18650?:stupid:


You can look at the numbers and answer that question. The first two digits is diameter, the second two is length, the "0" at the end denotes cylindrical cell.
 
Ok so for some reason someone has invented the 17670 battery
For a good reason.

17xxx cells (17mm diameter) have been around for quite a while. They are for lights whose internal diameter is too small to take the 18mm (18xxx diameter) cells - Surefire being a good example.

The drawback is a lower capacity. An 18650 cell will typically have a 2200mAh capacity, but a 17670 only 1600mAh.
 
hello roopeseta

you are currently experiencing CPF overwhelm load.

Jumping directly into lithium chemistry cells within your first few posts means you are really eager to get the ball rolling on the "good" stuff, But in order to really get the good stuff, you need to understand what makes a flashlight good for the use of lithium-ion rechargeable cells.

DM51 has nailed a lot of points here I won't cover again, but take these things into consideration:

So the voltage regulators will make up for the missing volts coming from the batter?
Need to address this because the answer is yes and no and it is important to the type of flashlight you decide to buy. See, it depends on the Vf (input voltage requirement of the LED at the set current drive) and depends if the regulator is designed to boost voltage, buck voltage, or both. Lets say for example, you have an LED that is going to be driven at 950mA at about 3.8V, and you have a buck circuit. Then a pair of 3.0V CR123 primary cells will maintain above that 3.8V requirement (starting around 6V and being dead around 4V) and drive the LED bright through the duration of the run till the very end where things would get pretty dim pretty fast. Lets say you take the same light and drop a 17670 cell in it. It starts off at 4.2V, so appears to have the same functionality as the 2xCR123s did because it starts off bright. Then as the voltage of the cell withers down, around 3.95V the light starts to dim (because buck regulators usually require some "overhead" voltage in order to stay in regulation)... so instead of running for like 2 hours in regulation then going basically dead like the 2xCR123 , the single 17670 might only run for 25 minutes in regulation, then start slowly dimming through the rest of the run, reaching 50% output 2-3+ hours later. A Flashlight capable of fitting an 18650 (which is a thicker cell) might do the same but run for 4+ hours to 50%... But what if you had a regulator that could both buck AND boost voltage?!?! then you could run a power source like a single 18650 and stay in regulation even when the supply voltage is above or below the Vf of the LED... there are a FEW flashlights designed like this, they are generally made specifically for the use of an 18650 cell, and they have solid 2+ hour runtimes on a rechargeable format cell that is reasonably small. Light like the Fenix P3D, which are similar in size to a 18650 powered light, will not even fit a 18650 cell, and they won't run right on a 17670, and on a pair of RCR123s only run for about 45 minutes (those cells have lower power density)..... So picking out a light that support an 18650 cell BEFORE you start sending money somewhere is a GOOD idea as you will get the most out of li-ion technology.

Ok, i thought that 18650 is the size of 2 cr123. Am i wrong again or whats the difference with 17670 and 18650?
actually a CR123 is a ~16330 size cell... take that information and .....

As Marduke was saying, look at the numbers, first 2 are diameter, next 2 are length, the 0 on the end just means "cylindrical." We're talking Millimeters here if it helps.

If you do the math you will see that neither a 17670 or a 18650 is the size of 2 CR123s, *but they are close*
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help everybody. Now i know where the 18650 numbers come from and so on. And thanks for the boost and buck regulator info too! I didnt know they can have both.
 
Thanks for the help everybody. Now i know where the 18650 numbers come from and so on. And thanks for the boost and buck regulator info too! I didnt know they can have both.

It just takes a little research and/or asking to find if a particular light has all the bells and whistles you want.
 
hello roopeseta

you are currently experiencing CPF overwhelm load.
LOL !!!

He's right though - it's a lot of information to try and absorb all at once. Don't worry, roopeseta - you'll get the hang of it, probably sooner than you think.
 
FWIW I've been here for quite awhile and am only now getting a handle on battery types, issues, safety and compatability when entering the rechargeable li-ion realm. DM51 and several others have been more than patient with a number of my novice battery questions.

The compatability issue is one reason I've been eyeing the Dereelight CL1H v3.0 SM two stage as my next light (hopefully the last for a while as well!) to complete a bit of an overhaul/upgrade of my collection. It will handle 2xCR123 primaries, 2xRCR123 li ion rechargeables as well as the 18650 (and arguably the 17670 but there isn't much point if you can use the higher capacity 18650 cell). I like than in a pinch I can use Walmart cells if I have to and the other versions of that light require an 18650. I'm not sure how that driver setup works (or why the other versions won't work on anything but the 18650) but in that form factor it does seem like the ability to run the 18650 gains a lot of advantages when talking li-ion rechargeables.
 
Top