Wizard / Wizard Pro. Multi-flashlights.

CampingMaster

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I took this info on ArmyTek Web site and improved it :

« Output levels and runtimes:
Turbo2 = 2300 (1h), Turbo1 = 1250lm (1h40min), 500lm (4h10min),210lm (10h40мin), 40lm (50h), 7lm (12d), 2lm (40d), 0.25lm (200d), Strobe3: 10Hz, Turbo2, 2h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Turbo2, 3.5h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Main2, 35h »





Feel free to copy it and print it for yourself, this is an image.
 
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CampingMaster

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We will refund you for shipping.
Our manager from the service department will contact you for all details.

Payment received few minutes ago, thank you.

I am now waiting for my very own Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 ( white ) because I was so impressed with the one I received for a friend that I fell in love with this Multi-Flashlight. My Wizard v2 XM-L2 ( white ) that I had for one year this month will be my spare one on camping.

I had phone calls from the Ontario office for the new order last week and the refund today, from a nice ladie with a very nice accent. Good service - thank you again.
 
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scs

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Armytek, I just got my hands on a friend's Wizard Pro XHP50 Warm, and have some comments and questions.

We've tested it with 2 new Panasonic GA cells. They both have had only 3 charging cycles on it so far and are fully functioning cells.

The 500 lumen mode, call it M3, seems dim for 500 lumens.
The 210 lumen mode, call it M2, IS dim. In fact, it is barely distinguishable from M1, the 40 lumen mode. M1 seems about right.
I have a Zebralight H52Fw as a reference, and there is a substantial difference between its 266 lumen H1 mode and 47 lumen M1 mode, so this Wizard is definitely not up to spec.

Turbo 1: if that's what 1,000+ OTF lumens look like, then I'm not impressed.
Turbo 2, though distinguishable from Turbo 1, also not impressive.
I'd be impressed if Turbo 1 looked like Turbo 2.

Turbo 1 gets warm, comfortably warm.
Turbo 2 gets scorching, untouchable hot, over 110 degrees F, within 30 seconds, the indicator light blinks 3 times in succession as a warning signal, but the light doesn't start to ramp down!

Armytek, how hot does the Wizard temperature control let it get before it ramps down?

In any case, I've recommended my friend to return it because M2 is faulty, Turbo 2 is essentially useless and gets dangerously hot!
 
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scs

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M3 actually looks like it's about 200 lumens.
And once again, this sample does not have a serial number.
When do the lights receive a serial number, Armytek?
 

gyzmo2002

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Turbo 2 gets scorching, untouchable hot, over 110 degrees F, within 30 seconds, the indicator light blinks 3 times in succession as a warning signal, but the light doesn't start to ramp down!

Armytek, how hot does the Wizard temperature control let it get before it ramps down?

In any case, I've recommended my friend to return it because M2 is faulty, Turbo 2 is essentially useless and gets dangerously hot!

Turbo 2 gets very hot but on mine, when it starts blinking red 3 times, it is decreasing very very slowly. At eyes, it's hard to see. I did not let it decreasing enough to see if it is able to return to the green led and increasing again until hot. I should do this test with a timer and my luxmeter but I'm not sure if testing this light at this extreme temperature is good for the led. Like I know me, I will probably do it in a near future.
 

scs

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Turbo 2 gets very hot but on mine, when it starts blinking red 3 times, it is decreasing very very slowly. At eyes, it's hard to see. I did not let it decreasing enough to see if it is able to return to the green led and increasing again until hot. I should do this test with a timer and my luxmeter but I'm not sure if testing this light at this extreme temperature is good for the led. Like I know me, I will probably do it in a near future.

Gyzmo, can you check your M2 and M1 modes to see if the difference is obvious?
Also, does yours have the voltage indication mode among the strobes, my friend's sample does not?
Does your light have a serial number?

Thanks.
 

gyzmo2002

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M1-M2-M3...M1..M2..M3
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jiwwwmyh8oieojg/Fichier 16-06-13 21 59 45.mov?dl=0

It's not the best with my iPhone(Auto). Tried to take pictures but my phone adjust the brightness automaticaly. In the video, with fast changing mode, it is accurate enough as what I see.

For turbo1 and2, I see a big difference. I tried to do a video but it is not accurate as what I see. The phone decrease the brightness too fast.

I don't have other lights with this type of lens and beam profile to compare with as your Zebralight.
 
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scs

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M1-M2-M3...M1..M2..M3
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jiwwwmyh8oieojg/Fichier 16-06-13 21 59 45.mov?dl=0

It's not the best with my iPhone(Auto). Tried to take pictures but my phone adjust the brightness automaticaly. In the video, with fast changing mode, it is accurate enough as what I see.

For turbo1 and2, I see a big difference. I tried to do a video but it is not accurate as what I see. The phone decrease the brightness too fast.

I don't have other lights with this type of lens and beam profile to compare with as your Zebralight.

Thanks, Gizmo.
I've taken lux measurements of the main modes. The absolute values are not important, it's the relative values that are telling.

M1: 400
M2: 700
M3: 1600
 

gyzmo2002

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M1: 400
M2: 750
M3: 1780

I don't think we have the good way comparing lux intensity reading to determine lumen variation between these modes.🤔
 
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scs

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M1: 400
M2: 750
M3: 1780

I don't think we have the good way comparing lux intensity reading to determine lumen variation between these modes.��

Well, it does tell me that M2 is about 2x M1, and M3 is about 2.5x M2.
If M2 was indeed around 200 lumens, that would mean M1 is around 100 lumens instead of 40 lumens, and M3 is around 500 lumens.
Come to think of it, someone in another thread did post that he thought M1 is around 100 lumens as well.

It turns out M2 is comparable to the spec'ed 266 lumen mode on my ZL H52Fw. Lux measurements of Turbo 1 and 2 relative to those for M2 and M3 also suggest that contrary to what I believed, actual outputs in the Main and Turbo groups, with the exception of M1, appear close to the specs, so I stand corrected.

But the temperature issue still stands. On Turbo 2, it gets over 130 degrees and stays there.

Voltage indication is still no where to be found.

But, gotta love the beam and the tint.

In light of this, my friend has decided to keep it. I might be won over eventually and get one of my own, now that AT ships from NA directly.
 
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CelticCross74

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man this model is nuts! Of course it is going to get scalding hot on max in no time! For those that have this light posted above isnt the higher outputs totally blinding? As for the this mode seems the same output as that mode are you eyeballing this with the light on your head or off? If it was not for AT's incredible anodization the light would get even hotter faster
 

scs

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man this model is nuts! Of course it is going to get scalding hot on max in no time! For those that have this light posted above isnt the higher outputs totally blinding? As for the this mode seems the same output as that mode are you eyeballing this with the light on your head or off? If it was not for AT's incredible anodization the light would get even hotter faster

The concern is PID doesn't ramp it down enough. It reached 140 degrees F and stayed there for a good minute before lowering it and staying at 130.

Difference between 40 and 200 lumens should be pretty dang obvious. Both visual tests and lux meter measurements point to M1 being around 100, instead of 40. Once again, there's actually a post in another thread with similar findings. That 40 lumen is very useful for closeup work and reading. 100 can be too much. Its absence can be a deal breaker.
 

clemence

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The concern is PID doesn't ramp it down enough. It reached 140 degrees F and stayed there for a good minute before lowering it and staying at 130.

Difference between 40 and 200 lumens should be pretty dang obvious. Both visual tests and lux meter measurements point to M1 being around 100, instead of 40. Once again, there's actually a post in another thread with similar findings. That 40 lumen is very useful for closeup work and reading. 100 can be too much. Its absence can be a deal breaker.

+10 for this. That's one of many reasons why I still haven't buy it. I usually use the Firefly3 for close up works with my Wizard3 (XP-L).
 
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gyzmo2002

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You have the choice to set this light in turbo 1 if you don't like the heat. I prefer a hot lamp with more brightness. A PID more agressive would decreased the brightness very fast to 1000 lumens. If the led could handle this high temperature, I prefer the PID as it is. With a so tinny light, we have to deal with temp and brighness.
 

gyzmo2002

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A solution for the one who don't like heat. The light will keep turbo 2 for about an hour and we will be ready for the V4 version with 4000lm lol

 
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