WTK Best or worst experiences with UV cured adhesives

m4a1usr

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Would like to hear your experiences with some of the various UV cured adhesives that are available. I recently decided to jump into this technology using UV cured adhesives in my builds and while I haven't had any serious issues its been an interesting transition from traditional glues, epoxies and adhesives. Am hoping you guys who have been working thru your use of these might pass on a little "wisdom" to this newcomer. TIA
 
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DrafterDan

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well, not much wisdom to impart. I use Norland 61 and a multi-UV emmiter Innova X5 (I think) torch for curing. The Norland is a bit thicker than water, and flows nicely. I'm careful to keep bubbles out, and then blast it with the UV. I find running it about 12 - 15 minutes from two different angles works nicely. If I have any doubt, I just set it on the back patio for a couple hours. Plenty of UV here in Phoenix!

20150809_084352.jpg



https://www.norlandprod.com/adhesives/noa 61.html
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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I'm curious where this thread goes.

Are you talking only about Norland to seal in trits, or are you using these adhesives for other purposes as well.

For Norland I use an UltraFire host with a P60 UV drop-in I purchased a few years ago. Not sure how strong the UV light is rated in terms of mW output but I know I can set a trit in 5-10 minutes. I usually go 15-20 just to make sure it's rock solid.

Before I had that host I used an under-count flourescent light with a black light UV tube in it. Was a bit slower but was able to do a nice setting in about 2-3 hours.

There are also the UV driers out there for nail polish that I've seen available in 365nm and 395nm wavelengths. They run up to 4 mini tubes at 36Watts. I haven't tried one but I imagine it would do a fast job of setting these adhesives. I see there being a bit too high of a risk with this option unless you are wearing protective gloves and glasses as your hands and eye would be exposed to a lot of stray UV light and that cannot be good in the long run.
 

m4a1usr

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Mostly seeking advice on the better/best UV cured adhesives for builds. I'm currently using Norrland, like most, for surface mounting trits but since it tends to be one of the most spendy adhesives I am trying others as well. Recently got a Super Glue version and it does quite well and for much cheaper. As far as a curing source I've stuck with a single emitter diode key ring light source (the kind used for currency verification) and it has no problem working its magic. Just looking for the do's and the dont's from the other builders here on CPF.
 

precisionworks

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Mostly seeking advice on the better/best UV cured adhesives for builds. I'm currently using Norland, like most, for surface mounting trits but since it tends to be one of the most spendy adhesives I am trying others as well.

Norland 61 is clear & colorless & it's a one part adhesive (no mixing & that keeps down air bubbles). You take all the time needed while aligning components (or installing trits) as NOA61 will not cure until it's exposed to UV light.

A very little goes a long way & while a bottle costs about $30/ounce the cost per application is tiny.

A 365nm light source is best (according to the Norland website). I bought a UVP B100 (100 watt mercury vapor bulb, uncoated) that uses a filter to output 365nm light & cure is very fast. As Norland recommends, I pre cure for 10 seconds at 6" followed by final cure for 5-10 minutes.

I don't use the light anymore, got out of the trit business a while back, and would make someone a great deal on the light. http://www.uvp.com/highintensitylamps.html
 

DrafterDan

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That's the thing about trits. They are so wonderful and tech-y to have on your torch. The down side is that milling the slot is so skill intensive, and a great way to test your patience and dwindle your end-mill collection. And when things go wrong, you've just hosed an expensive piece.
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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Barry - that's one serious light! Definitely eye-protection for that use.

Like Barry said - a little goes a LONG way. I've probably installed about 500+ trits over the past few years and haven't gone through more than 5ml of Norland. I buy it from the vendors here in 1ml vials. Stays fresh for 1-2 years as well when stored in a cool dark place. After that it can start to get a little gummy.

My suggestion is too buy in small quantities as you need it so you always have fresh stuff.
 

mcbrat

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one note of interest. if you get Norland too thick it will cure unevenly and leave a uneven surface. also, if it's too thick over the trits, it will still transmit out the trit colors fine, but you will not be able to excite the trits with a UV light as the UV will not penetrate the thick N61.
 

Kekoa61

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Great info everybody! I ordered my trits and Norlund61 for my Sinner, and I am looking forward to getting them in. I took Gunga's advice on the UV light for curing; I ordered a Jaxman U1 light. I don't consider myself much of a tinkerer, but this doesn't look too difficult. The advice proffered here helps for sure!
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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Best of luck with the project. Just remember if you mess up the setting or get the Norland spread around the trit slot it's easy to back out before you set it. Just soak up the Norland with a paper towel, remove the trit, clean it all up with rubbing alcohol and start over.

Once the Norland is set it is very hard to get it out without cracking up the trit vial.
 

Ladd

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Good info. What "tool" do you guys use to apply the Norland to the light?

Edit: ......and Drafter, what is that cool looking light in the photo above?
 
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ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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My tool is a toothpick with a fine point. Add very small drops at a time. I find this prevents any bubbles compared with using a pipette.
 

DrafterDan

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Ladd, yes that's the best advice. Go really slow when dripping in the N61.bubbles are difficult to maneuver out. A sewing needle works for me.
That torch is one of my oen design - or at last it is now. The photo I put up is when I had a Ronac tailcap. I haven't yet figured out how to put trits into the tailcap I just made.
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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Ladd, yes that's the best advice. Go really slow when dripping in the N61.bubbles are difficult to maneuver out. A sewing needle works for me.
That torch is one of my oen design - or at last it is now. The photo I put up is when I had a Ronac tailcap. I haven't yet figured out how to put trits into the tailcap I just made.

I really like the sewing needle idea - I'm going to give that a try the next time I have a trit to set.
 

nfetterly

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Looking for information to reply, but need to close browser (stay tuned, having technical difficulties with browser...)


I've copied information out of CPF over the years and some of it's been on using Norland, so with apologies to the original poster and / or who sent me a PM on this (& I have more...), not saying I haven't always done what it says below....

Re: Tritium installation problems

Here's a few things that will help:

1) Never apply the adhesive in 2 steps and never apply it on top of the vial. This will always trap air under the adhesive in the form of a bubble(s). Attempting to break this bubble will usually result in more smaller bubbles. The more you mess with it, the worse it will get.

2) First, fill the slot with enough adhesive to cover the vial when put in place. This will typically require filling the slot 1/2 way. SLOWLY press the vial into the adhesive. This will push the adhesive around and on top of the vial without introducing air, hence no bubbles.

3) Heat the part just prior to applying the adhesive. This will make it less viscous. It will flow around the vial faster with less chance of trapping air. If you do get a bubble, it will rise to the top faster and be easier to break.

4) Work under magnification. Get yourself a $2 pair of non-prescription reading glasses. 2X magnification is fine. They will allow you to see bubbles your naked eye can't.
 
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Ladd

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Ladd, yes that's the best advice. Go really slow when dripping in the N61.bubbles are difficult to maneuver out. A sewing needle works for me.
That torch is one of my oen design - or at last it is now. The photo I put up is when I had a Ronac tailcap. I haven't yet figured out how to put trits into the tailcap I just made.


Good info here. Thanks!

DD: That's a cool light. I love to see more about it.......:)
 

DaveC1964

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Has anyone use UV cured resins and mixed in GITD powder to make glowing details on lights? I do this a lot with the standard catalyst cured polyester resin and it works good except for the long cure times.
 

PhotonWrangler

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Has anyone tried both the Norland and Bondic adhesives and compared them? I just saw an ad for Bondic on TV and discovered that I can get this stuff locally. I'm wondering if it's worth the trip to pick some up.
 
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