Wurkkos TS10 copper trouble?

[AMD64Brunette]

My Wurkkos TS10 copper was working normally until today.

Now, when I try to turn it on.. it flickers and turns off instantly.

This is with the stock Wurkkos- branded 14500 battery that comes with the light.

Any idea what's wrong? I've had my light since Jan.6,2025. (It hasn't even been a week).

 

[jon_slider]

can you verify the voltage of the battery?

do you have any other 14500 battery you could try?

 

[AMD64Brunette]

The voltage reads 4.20 volts on my Miboxer C8 charger.

It does the exact same flicker with another 14500 battery I tried.

 

[jon_slider]

then I think it is time to make a video to send to Wurkkos, for a warranty replacement

 

[glockboy]

Twist open and close the head and the tailcap.

 

[jon_slider]

On the Wurkkos TS10, the Tailcap is glued shut. It is not meant to be opened.

I do agree that closing the head tightly is important for good contact.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Finally heard back from Wurkkos. Why do they want a video of the light?

 

[jon_slider]

Why do they want a video of the light?

That is standard practice for all warranty claims. It proves you actually own the light.

That allows the customer service rep to fulfill the requirement their boss imposes on them, to justify shipping you a brand new light (minus battery).

You will also get to keep the defective light.. they dont require you to mail it back to China. (you can mail it to me if you want to;-) )

When you provide the video, you can look forward to receiving a complete brand new replacement.

fwiw, Aluminum, Titanium w Copper head, and Copper models have different weights (all w battery inside):

the fancy metals are fun to look at, on my desk, but heavier than I like to pocket carry.. The Aluminum TS10 is my regular EDC.

 

[Robocop]

It may be a good idea to use a small pencil eraser and clean the contacts inside the head and also the threads. My Wurkkos had an ever so slight flicker and this seemed to do the trick for me. Also mine has a black liner tube inside the battery tube. Not sure why it is there as it does not come out however it can be twisted freely inside the tube. Maybe also ensure this tube is fully recessed in order to have a proper contact.

 

[jon_slider]

mine has a black liner tube inside the battery tube.

The tailswitch is electronic, same as on an HDS. The eSwitch design requires two different signal carriers. In an HDS, instead of a complete second tube, there is a wire that runs from the tail to the head.. looks like this:

The double tube design of the TS10 does the same job.

 

[TIFisher]

Also mine has a black liner tube inside the battery tube. Not sure why it is there as it does not come out however it can be twisted freely inside the tube.

This is crazy...I'm currently rotating my copper TS10 (v.1) into general household duty (out of the 10 variations in the set). This is the first time I've heard such observation, and lo and behold I can confirm the same mechanics after trying it myself. If you hadn't mentioned this, I would have never even considered it possible. It makes me wonder if an accumulation of grease/gunk/glue under the inner tube (at the tailcap end) may affect the electrical path. It is known the TS10 tailcap is glued tight from the factory to prevent users from compromising the contact point of the inner tube transmission back to the head (and avoiding the inevitable gut spill of the tail switch itself), but folks have disassembled it.
Interesting. Thanks for pointing this out. I have a TI unit that has been giving me fits with operation every time I replace the cell. This observation may give me a better understanding of what the cause could be.

 

[jon_slider]

I have a TI unit that has been giving me fits with operation every time I replace the cell.

did rotating the tube solve the problem?

This is a TS10 with the tailcap removed:

The unanodised ends of the black tube press firmly against the contact rings on the tailswitch and driver, when the head is screwed shut. There is no lube at the tail, only blue loctite.

sometimes a TS10 can act like it has a bad switch, when the actual problem is lube on the contact ring in the head, and on the head end of the black tube. Those areas need to be free of lube, for best electrical contact.

another potential cause of a TS10 switch not working, is when using batteries longer than 50mm, which is the length of the stock Wurkkos 14500... If the battery is too long, for example as in the Vapcel H10 button top, it prevents the head from screwing down far enough to meet the black inner tube.

I hope you manage to get your light working properly

 

[TIFisher]

did rotating the tube solve the problem?

This is a TS10 with the tailcap removed:
View attachment 73534

The unanodised ends of the black tube press firmly against the contact rings on the tailswitch and driver, when the head is screwed shut. There is no lube at the tail, only blue loctite.

sometimes a TS10 can act like it has a bad switch, when the actual problem is lube on the contact ring in the head, and on the head end of the black tube. Those areas need to be free of lube, for best electrical contact.

another potential cause of a TS10 switch not working, is when using batteries longer than 50mm, which is the length of the stock Wurkkos 14500... If the battery is too long, for example as in the Vapcel H10 button top, it prevents the head from screwing down far enough to meet the black inner tube.

I hope you manage to get your light working properly

Thanks for the breakdown pic, Jon. I kinda figured it was you that I was referring to on the dissection. I'm good with the basic t-shooting. Run a flat-top L10 in my Ti. I've cleaned the tube end and driver ring multiple times. It's just finicky. As stated, I never considered an issue at the opposite end of the signal tube, and never explored any tolerance issues beyond insuring the head was cranked down tight. Robocop's mention of a semi-free floating inner tube got me thinking. Your photo shows a rib at one end of the inner tube with an O-ring. Which end of the body is that oriented? I'm just speculating if it is the tailcap end, maybe there's an excess of lube from assembly that is causing intermittent contact with the ring in the tailcap. It's been a consistent issue since I've had it. I'll fiddle with it tomorrow to see if rotating the tube will make a difference. Thanks for the tip.

 

[jon_slider]

Your photo shows a rib at one end of the inner tube

the rib is at the tailcap end.

It is possible for loctite to get between the switch and the black tube end. Also possible the loctite prevented closing the tailcap all the way.

I do think you are likely to succeed by removing the tailcap and removing all the loctite. To soften the glue, I would dip the tailcap in boiled water before trying to unscrew it.

Hopefully you have suitable tools that wont scratch or crush the tailcap.. let me know if you need suggestions..

 

[BigusLightus]

The black tube should be free to move. If you remove the head you can place the body tube head side down on a hard surface and push down on the outer body hoping to push the inner tube slightly towards the tail. This should help make a better connection with the tailcap.

 

[jon_slider]

push the inner tube slightly towards the tail

that happens automatically when the head it tightened.. no need to fiddle with the black tube..

 

[BigusLightus]

I realize it seems odd, but no amount of head tightening worked on my TI copper for some reason.

 

[jon_slider]

I realize it seems odd, but no amount of head tightening worked on my TI copper for some reason.

ok, glad you got it to work by pressing the black tube towards the tail then.. ;-)