WXOT LuxV

bwaites

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I would like to hear the Pros and Cons of hosting this in a Mag2C vs an Aleph III.

Make recommendations re: direct drive, drivers, etc.

Bill
 

KevinL

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The A3 will probably be smaller, being that it has a 38mm reflector and the Mag2C has a larger 52mm reflector. The Aleph reflector is also prefocused for various ranges compared to the Mag reflector - you will still be able to twist it around a little bit, but the donut hole will remain.

Drivers and such - naah, direct drive such a nice LED? The advantage of the Mag is that there is enough space for the awesome Fatman driver, however the Fatman is a boost driver, so you would need input voltage < Vf. It's dimmable with an external potentiometer. Look at Hotbeam's PocketMate-W for an example. I am doing up something that resembles it for myself. The last remaining VW0T is going into that one when I have the time (which seems like, never). Variable power lights own me. This is no exception /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Endeavour

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My personal opinion (this is what I used one of my LEDs for) is to put it into a MagMod. Have you seen HotBeam's Fatman light? Amazing thing that drives the LED from 0-1200mA if I recall correctly, via a small pot. My light is waiting in the mail for me at home, since I'm on vacation, but the guy who made it for me said it was a rather impressive build, and juding by the one other Luxeon V light of mine, I've no reason to doubt him.

On the Alephs, you can make a little spacer for the LED to get rid of the doughnut hole, but having never done one of those myself I don't have many details. I *think* what people have done is cut up a business card as a spacer, but I'm not certain on that.

Best of luck to you with whatever you choose - both will be great lights.
 

UncleFester

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Bill
Here's one that works VERY well.
Mug 2D using one of Modamag's 8AA>2D adapters driving a georges80 downconverter set at one amp. Remarkably small light. Lux V running at one amp with an hour of REGULATED run time with slow dimming after after falling out of regulation.
Just my 2c worth.
Whatsa hotwire guy doin' with a LUX V anyway?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/poke2.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hahaha.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crackup.gif
 

bwaites

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As I have said, I UNDERSTAND hotwires, (heres a battery, heres a bulb, what happens?)

LEDs are a new world, I'm trying to learn what I can!!

I've built some SNII's for orders, I've built some sandwiches for orders, but really taking advantage of a Luxeon like this takes some thought, so I wanted to see what I could do!

Besides that--I just FLAT out like lights, PERIOD, any kind, any shape!!!

Bill
 

kongfuchicken

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Well, if you use it in an Aleph, you'll have better modularity, as in you'll be able to use various power packs depending on your needs (small size, short runtime/ larger size... you get it) and the ability to swap light engines later when the new luxeons come out. A low mode is also surprisingly useful sometimes.
The mag body road is simpler and I'd recomend using a converter. The larger heatsink will allow oyu to drive the luxV at a higher level also.
 

Chop

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There are beneits to putting a 5W in a M@g mod. The first being that the host is big enough to dissipate the heat that is generated when taking full advantage of the light that the luxeon is capable of putting out. Of course, the downside is that the M@g mod is where it will stay, once it's in there. I know that you could remove the emitter, if you really wanted to, but I wouldn't risk it.

By building a light engine with the luxeon, you gain flexibility. Who knows what the future will bring, in the way of larger reflectors and such.

I have a very bright W bin lux V that I build a light engine with. As soon as I have time, I'm going to build me an Aleph compatible head using a reflector the size of those used in the D cell M@g lights. This way, I really don't have to commit to anything but the drive current level.
 

3rd_shift

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I have made a few 2c 3xcr123 batteried luxeon5 lights.
A 1.6-1.8 ohm 2 watt resistor arctic alumina'ed to the back of the osink will work nicely too.
Be sure to file, or sand down the led pit ridges a tad to be double sure that the led is in fact contacting it's slug to the osink.


Another idea:
Get a 3c baglight and go with a georges80 downstep 1000.
This will require a bit of dremeling and caution to get everything to fit right.
Mount the emitter after everything else is cut to fit right.
Should end up with a 4Xcr123 light with 2+ hours runtime and nearing 200 lumens.
I did this one with an Xbin a month ago.
It was; /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wow.gif
 

cy

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if max lumens is what you are after. clone MR-X (driven @ 1.5amps).. the most awsume LED light made. except possibly PK-1, which uses a side emitter. both xbins.

you heard this before, but it's bears repeating. bin codes only will get you in the ball park of lux's true potential. there are over and under achievers.

I've got one WX1S that puts lumens very close to X3T in MR-X and way brighter than several other Xbins.

to give a solid reference to a known hotwire, My MR-X X3T puts out lumens equal to Surefire M6 with lola.
 

UncleFester

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Bill
Gosh, I didn't mean anything derogatory. I'm sure we all like several different kinds of lights. (I'm fascinated by LEDs and I'm trying to round the parts for a Mug 85) I was merely trying to spread some humor. I thought it ironic your sigline is about incandescants and the post was about a Bad @$$ Luxeon, that's all.
No offense intended.
 

bwaites

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Uncle--

I don't GET offended, I was teasing back!

The LED world fascinates me, I'm just trying to put together the last LuxV light I'll probably have and want it to be BAAAD!!

I certainly appreciate all the comments and help, this is NEW to me and I just don't want to waste this great luxeon!

Nill
 

GarageBoy

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How is putting it into a Mag wasting it? Direct drive nearly guarantees enough current to make the most out of it
 

Endeavour

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I still stand by the FatMan driver from Georges80 and a Mag host. Big heatsink, good convertor, big reflector, etc. etc. The rated lifetime of the LED is 500 hours at 700mA. It will last for more than this, but I, personally, wouldn't drive that LED at 1.5 A (or more than 1A) for an extended period of time. Over driving the LEDs causes much faster phosphor degradation, unfortunately.

Best of luck to you in whatever you choose.
 

bwaites

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GarageBoy,

I didn't mean to insinuate that it was a waste in a Mag body.

I have 2 SNII's in Mag2C bodies that I love, one is a VWOT, the other an unknown, but obviously high binned MrBulk binned LuxV.

I really appreciate all your thougts.

I am leaning toward a 750 BadBoy driven lamp, but still might direct drive it.

If I do decide to direct drive, any recommendations on how much resistor to use if I want to run 3 123's?

Bill
 

HarryN

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Hi Bill - I sold 2 of these WXOTs late last year - and they were my babies - I gringe to say that I am pretty sure that both of them were accidentally destroyed by the end users using true direct drive - no regulation - no resistor - pushed to 1.5 amps plus but well heat sinked.

The Luxeon package is primarily limited by its ability to remove heat - and somewhere around 6 - 7 watts is about it. Some would argue that that is too much. LED lights are a balance of what you already know about incans, and the added challenge that LED temp decreases light output in a substantial, non linear way.

I have heard the analogy that "an LED is an incan without the filament resistance" - a good place to start.

I agree with the 1 amp max limit - and frankly, 750ma is not bad either.

A light running 5 or 6 x C or D cells with either a 2 ohm resistor or a georges80 buck driver is a great setup. So is 3 x 123 and the same current limiting setup.

I have some custom made, 1206 size, 2 ohm resistors, which are unique in their power dissipation capability. AFAIK, they are the only ones in existence rated to take the required power you need for this design - witout going to much larger resistors. Believe me, you will not even come close to the rating on these. If you want a couple of samples, send me a pm and I will mail some to you.

I have learned so much about incans from your threads, that I would be truly honored if you were to use them.
 

3rd_shift

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If you go the badboy, or georges80 route, you may be able to use r123's too.
A current regulator really opens up possibilities for other battery types. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Resistors, HarryN has 2 ohm units that ought to be just about perfect, high powered, and small enough to fit without any squeezing into the back of the Osink.
 

AuroraLite

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Hi, Bill.

Recently, I had just made a Mag2D nflex with a VX0S, and though I don't know the exact runtime for this puppy, it is everything I expect it to be--fun. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Personally, I would recommend doing it on a Mag mod, my 2 cents worth of reasons being:

1) W got good lumens output, and it'd be great to have a reflector to collect all those photons into a more intense spot rather than a bright wall of light.(I like throw over flood).

2) If you use a molex connection between the nflex and the lux, then you could always 'upgrade' this mag2D with a new lux with a new heat sink. And the original WX0T could still be put onto other mod.

3) With 8AA to 2D, you bound to have more runtime than using 2 123 batteries.

4) As Tony said, more body to drive away the heat, thus longer runtime in brightest mode.

5) Put on a FM3" and you got even more throw!


Either way, I am sure you'd have fun with this cool binned Lux V. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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