XML / Aspheric light first build

trout

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
425
Location
yorkshire / England
Hello you dive people
I come in peace from the world of mountain bike lights .
I dont dive but soon will be doing the open water Padi course but that a different story.

My mate has seen the bike lights and wanted me to do him a dive light .
he wanted a narrow beam and powerfull .

so here is where we have got so far The plan is to use an XML U2 led with a 44 mm aspheric lens from the surplus shed
power will be a 3 cell 18650 in parallel driven by a Taskled Lflex and hopefully using a Hall toggle to switch on and off we are not bothered accessing the modes as the light will be programmed prior to sealing up and will only have Hi beam
on and off . ( unless we get some other suggestions .

A few pics of progress

IMG_0727.jpg


IMG_0728.jpg


IMG_0729.jpg


IMG_0730.jpg


IMG_0731.jpg



The housing is in 3 parts the front and rear mate up with some 1 in 3/4 box which is just the right size for the battery pack .

there will be a 2 mm Lexan cover on the front with a bolt on bezel sealed with a labyrinth of grooves and PU adhesive

the second line of defence will be the lens as that will also be glued in place with the clear glue

at the back I plan on a charger port with a screw in oring sealed cover behind will be a IP67 M8 connector and copious amounts of sealant .

also the Hall switch area will be on the rear .

I plan on getting it working and testing it on dry land for a few goes before final sealing ready for use as getting in will be difficult if repairs are needed .

Hopefully will get it anodised too .

Please can anyone see any major problems or suggest a better way to get this light up and diving .
 
I would suggest building it where you can access it easily if you need to.
 
Is 2mm lexan going to handle the pressure at depth? I'm not sure what depth your friend dives, but 2mm sounds scary. Ive been used 8mm acrylic 80m if that helps, though not sure of failure depth t present though I'll deeper on weekend.
 
He means don't glue/seal everything up to the point that you can't get back in their later if it leaks or something breaks and needs replacing.
 
Hi,
Interesting build.
I assume that by 'high' you intend to run it a 2.8A.
If you are testing it I would be curious to know how long you can run at full power before the circuit resistance (and battery internal resistance) are too much as the battery discharges.
I have something simmilar using 7135's ( with the diode removed) but get the feeling ( it is all sealed up so I cannot test it properly) that after a few minutes I am down to around two amps.
Rod
 
Not sure what you mean , I build it in my garage which is next to the house so very easy access

Yes this:
"I plan on getting it working and testing it on dry land for a few goes before final sealing ready for use as getting in will be difficult if repairs are needed ."
 
Yes will be testing it out soon so will check how long it goes for
battery pack came in today 3.7 volt 7.8 AH so by that maths should get close to 2 hours run time though I accept not all at the full whack .
though will stand corrected if I have something wrong there .

couple more picks
got the charge socket cavity and cover made today and the front bezel .

IMG_0732.jpg


IMG_0733.jpg
 
Great looking light you have there.
It looks like you have room for 4 18650s in there, why not use the room and gain more runtime?
 
Great looking light you have there.
It looks like you have room for 4 18650s in there, why not use the room and gain more runtime?


There is room for a 4 cell pack but my battery supplier ( www.mtbbatteries.co.uk ) has given me a 3 cell pack for free so that is why I am using it

I have built a similar light for my mountain bike using a triple XML and the ledil Cute optic with a 4 cell pack inside

IMG_0724.jpg
 
Got it built up for testing but not sealed up proper yet

IMG_0763.jpg


the lens is just held in place to try the beam out

IMG_0764.jpg


charge socket and lanyard loop at the rear

IMG_0765.jpg


and finally how cool are those Halltoggle switches from taskled

 
Look good!

I've very interested to see:

1) Beam shots above and underwater (not sure if this is possible)
2) What mechanical solution you run with on the magnet.

I'm also curious to understand why you made the body out of alloy? Given it's negativity, I would have though delrin or similar would be a better match and alloy for the head still.
 
Look good!

I've very interested to see:

1) Beam shots above and underwater (not sure if this is possible)
2) What mechanical solution you run with on the magnet.

I'm also curious to understand why you made the body out of alloy? Given it's negativity, I would have though delrin or similar would be a better match and alloy for the head still.


Never thought about delrin but have now Thanks.
not yet worked out the hows and wheres of the magnet

beamshot in the fields

IMG_0766.jpg
 
The lens is a critical component of any dive torch; both for light transmission and pressure resistance. Why go to all that effort with the rest of the torch to then cobble together a couple of thin lenses with glue?
 
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