Your thoughts on Malkoff MDC AA

Weird Olight 2.4v c charging battery is useful for Malkoff aa lights as well as M31 drop ins. Gene said it was safe and it bumps moonlight mode to about 1 lumen. Have an xpg, xpg2, and sst20 aa mdc and the moonlight modes are all different. Choosing 1.2, 1.5, 2.4 v batteries lets you adjust it a little.
 

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Were those bodies just cerakoted ones? I think you can cerakote over anodized aluminum, and it's surprisingly affordable to get it done professionally (call around to gun shops).

Don't let memes be dreams.
 
Oh, and a pro-tip that took me a bit of time (since this Surefire ecosystem is long since discontinued):
P3 = 1 CR123 -> M31 Malkoffs (<3v)
P6 = 2 CR123 -> M61 Malkoffs (~3.4-9v)
P9 = 3 CR123 -> M91 Malkoffs (~5.5-12v)

Hey new guy, welcome to CPF

Might I suggest that if you are going to offer SureFire "pro-tips", that you get the info correct

P3 is actually a 3P

P6 is actually a 6P

And last, but not least

P9 is actually a 9P

In summary, SureFires........

3P = 1 CR123

6P = 2 CR123 (SF did have models 6/6C, before the 6P)

9P = 3 CR123

Perhaps minor details to some, yet very important to others
 
Happy ending at the beginning of the new year.

My Elzetta RCR in my MDC 1xAA 1x123 with a VME and M361W needed a charge. It had been sitting idle since the LF SP-6M arrived. The MDC once had a wrist strap fastened between the tiny screws of the clip but it broke. Once the gap filler was gone the screws were loose. I'd forgotten that.

So, today instead of carrying the 6M I slid the MDC into my trouser pocket with the clip on the outside. Later in the day I noticed the top screw was gone. "Awe man, what a drag!" I thought. It aint like those little things are widely available. But later when I emptied the pocket of coins, knife etc the tiny screw WAS INSIDE MY POCKET. Heavens to Mergatroid, what luck that was.

To add to the good fortune Mrs Fixer was working on something that uses tiny screws and had an allen wrench that fit just 3' away when I found the screw. Now the screws are tight again.

Edit: Ok, the entire time I was discussing the flashlight it was my 1x123 MDC. Not a 1x AA that stays on my night stand.

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Hey new guy, welcome to CPF

Might I suggest that if you are going to offer SureFire "pro-tips", that you get the info correct

P3 is actually a 3P

P6 is actually a 6P

And last, but not least

P9 is actually a 9P

In summary, SureFires........

3P = 1 CR123

6P = 2 CR123 (SF did have models 6/6C, before the 6P)

9P = 3 CR123

Perhaps minor details to some, yet very important to others
Since we're being pedantic, it wasn't "Surefire pro-tips," it was "Malkoff pro-tips." I don't use Surefire hosts, but I use Surefire compatible drop-ins and hosts, where the letter leads, thus the confusion. I'm sure the transposition was some hilarious IP legal nonsense avoidance, but that stuff is still around and being made, while the Surefire stuff is mostly just vintage collectibles at this point.

For example, here is a selection of P6 drop-ins:

In 2025, most people aren't using Surefire branded products for this (especially if they're buying them new), and so the more "Chinesium reversal" is what they'll tend to see, which, again, confused the crap out of me when I started. For anyone just starting down this path, they're probably not going to be paying the high prices for NOS Surefire stuff, so the exact Surefire nomenclature isn't nearly as common these days (and yes, I see the irony and confusion in that).

So, the idea being that if you see something "P3," that's means for ~3V, "P6" ~6V, "P9" ~9V.


Happy ending at the beginning of the new year.

My Elzetta RCR in my MDC 1aa with a VME and M361W needed a charge. It had been sitting idle since the LF SP-6M arrived. The MDC once had a wrist strap fastened between the tiny screws of the clip but it broke. Once the gap filler was gone the screws were loose. I'd forgotten that.

So, today instead of carrying the 6M I slid the MDC into my trouser pocket with the clip on the outside. Later in the day I noticed the top screw was gone. "Awe man, what a drag!" I thought. It aint like those little things are widely available. But later when I emptied the pocket of coins, knife etc the tiny screw WAS INSIDE MY POCKET. Heavens to Mergatroid, what luck that was.

To add to the good fortune Mrs Fixer was working on something that uses tiny screws and had an allen wrench that fit just 3' away when I found the screw. Now the screws are tight again.

View attachment 72387

It's funny you posted that, cause I think I remember seeing you once posting a picture of the lanyard between the screws, and I ALWAYS thought it was a really neat idea, but I never did it because, in the back of my head, I was always thinking, "I wonder if the screws would back out if I messed with them..." Haha.

I think I saw some people say they use loctite. If you got some of the purple one, that's SUPER low torque, and should work fine (I actually REALLY prefer Vibra-tite to Loctite for anything I am going to remove/replace more than once).
 
Since we're being pedantic, it wasn't "Surefire pro-tips," it was "Malkoff pro-tips." I don't use Surefire hosts, but I use Surefire compatible drop-ins and hosts, where the letter leads, thus the confusion. I'm sure the transposition was some hilarious IP legal nonsense avoidance, but that stuff is still around and being made, while the Surefire stuff is mostly just vintage collectibles at this point.

It's ok new guy, you don't know what you don't know, and obviously you don't know SureFires

Sorry I hurt your feelings

I've used SureFire 6P's and 9P's (among other SF's) since 1995

I do have more than a little experience with them, and I don't consider them just "collectibles"
 
Since we're being pedantic, it wasn't "Surefire pro-tips," it was "Malkoff pro-tips." I don't use Surefire hosts, but I use Surefire compatible drop-ins and hosts, where the letter leads, thus the confusion. I'm sure the transposition was some hilarious IP legal nonsense avoidance, but that stuff is still around and being made, while the Surefire stuff is mostly just vintage collectibles at this point.

For example, here is a selection of P6 drop-ins:

In 2025, most people aren't using Surefire branded products for this (especially if they're buying them new), and so the more "Chinesium reversal" is what they'll tend to see, which, again, confused the crap out of me when I started. For anyone just starting down this path, they're probably not going to be paying the high prices for NOS Surefire stuff, so the exact Surefire nomenclature isn't nearly as common these days (and yes, I see the irony and confusion in that).

So, the idea being that if you see something "P3," that's means for ~3V, "P6" ~6V, "P9" ~9V.




It's funny you posted that, cause I think I remember seeing you once posting a picture of the lanyard between the screws, and I ALWAYS thought it was a really neat idea, but I never did it because, in the back of my head, I was always thinking, "I wonder if the screws would back out if I messed with them..." Haha.

I think I saw some people say they use loctite. If you got some of the purple one, that's SUPER low torque, and should work fine (I actually REALLY prefer Vibra-tite to Loctite for anything I am going to remove/replace more than once).
The screws were loose because piece of string (for lack of better word) was gone. When I had the string between the screws it created a tension that kept the screws tight. Once that tension (as in clamping force) was not present the screws could easily back out since they were no longer even finger tight, much less fastened to tight.

I use a glue called E6000 for screws that back out. It's a glue but also acts as a gap filler but if needed to can easily be cleaned from the threads since it stays soft.
 
It's ok new guy, you don't know what you don't know, and obviously you don't know SureFires

Sorry I hurt your feelings

I've used SureFire 6P's and 9P's (among other SF's) since 1995

I do have more than a little experience with them, and I don't consider them just "collectibles"
Actually, I'm pretty sure you're talking about the hosts, and I'm talking about the drop-ins. I think the Surefire drop-in nomenclature was P60 (I assume with incandescent, that the 3V and 9V were the same drop-in?)? Malkoff was M60, but the newest ones are M3/6/91. For newer people, the Surefire hosts are just...really expensive, and don't make a bunch of sense to start with (only take CR123A or 16650), so the aftermarket hosts (like the MD2 or Kaidomain E2) are what you use, and typically, you use a P6 drop-in, because the "6V" drop-ins match a single Li-ion. I assume P60 -> P6 for copyright/IP reasons...?

No feelings are hurt. The entire nomenclature thing is really, really confusing for everyone, and because everything is now essentially post-Surefire, and everyone is attempting to avoid copyright/patent stuff, it's the Wild West. I don't have that many drop-in hosts, but if you go down the AliExpress rabbit hole, you can find all sorts of weird ones.

I mostly just use the Malkoff MD2 and MD3 with the MDX heads. The Kaidomain E6 (which takes an 18650) is not terrible for the like $5 they charge if you get a P6 drop-in. It's not great, and has an idiosyncratic head, but not bad...for $5. The Lumen Factory SP-6M is a pretty cool 18650/18350 host...and their Surefire compatible drop-ins are the D26 series, but their E-series hosts use the E1/E2 nomenclature, haha.

The screws were loose because piece of string (for lack of better word) was gone. When I had the string between the screws it created a tension that kept the screws tight. Once that tension (as in clamping force) was not present the screws could easily back out since they were no longer even finger tight, much less fastened to tight.

I use a glue called E6000 for screws that back out. It's a glue but also acts as a gap filler but if needed to can easily be cleaned from the threads since it stays soft.

Fascinating. Is it like "Shoe Goo"? I think I found the data sheet, and it sounds like it works like a rubber cement:


This is the one I mentioned:

It's essentially just kind of polymerizes quickly on the hardware, so it feels like the threads are "gummed up," but you can fasten and unfasten it several times with the same application. I love it for things I need to remove, but don't necessarily want backing out.
 
When the 6P was a new thing it was retail $89! (166+ in 2024) New modules were $16-20 (20-37) and often only lasted through a few battery changes before needing replacement. And batteries were $2-3 (3.75 to $5) each. They lasted about an hour. The 65 lumens from a hand size flashlight was about like carrying a big ole Maglite 4 cell number.

Meanwhile an MDC 1aa puts out a lot more than that.
 
When the 6P was a new thing it was retail $89! (166+ in 2024) New modules were $16-20 (20-37) and often only lasted through a few battery changes before needing replacement. And batteries were $2-3 (3.75 to $5) each. They lasted about an hour. The 65 lumens from a hand size flashlight was about like carrying a big ole Maglite 4 cell number.

Meanwhile an MDC 1aa puts out a lot more than that.
RIP Woods Walker (because I love his channel, and am of the same mind for lights with him), but this was one of the funniest ones I ever saw:


I remember CR123A light being a thing when I was younger, and I saw the cost, and just hard, hard passed. I remember getting a camera that used like 4(?) AA's versus a smaller format with a CR123A, because the cost was just so crazy. That was back when Maglites were mostly huge D-cell monstrosities, and as you mention, the Surefire was a 4D power from a compact size, but man...none of that was super impressive performance. This was when I had halogen work lights. I remember getting a flourescent work light, and being BLOWN AWAY at how it was bright but NOT a fire hazard....and then replacing like a dozen bulbs as it'd hit the garage floor and stop working, haha.
I'm still mostly a rechargeable AA guy, and Eneloops still are the single greatest advancement in battery technology, haha. When all flashlights sucked, the operating costs could get out of hand so much.

The very first, horrible ugly LED flashlights were just so much brighter from a single AA. I didn't look at anything seriously until I needed a bicycle light a few years ago. Turned it on, "Oh, wow. I think things have advanced a LOT..."

I watched the linked video before and after really understanding INFRNL's runtime graphs. It's wild that "that long taper" is something the CR123A/Incandescent crew LIKES because they were used to it, because those batteries are so horrible.

Besides cost, I didn't take flashlights seriously in those days because incandescent performance was so bad, the batteries were so bad, runtimes were so bad, and...did I mention the cost? Imagine blowing $100 for essentially LESS performance than a Convoy T3 today...for $15...running an Eneloop, hahaha.
 
RIP Woods Walker (because I love his channel, and am of the same mind for lights with him), but this was one of the funniest ones I ever saw:


I remember CR123A light being a thing when I was younger, and I saw the cost, and just hard, hard passed. I remember getting a camera that used like 4(?) AA's versus a smaller format with a CR123A, because the cost was just so crazy. That was back when Maglites were mostly huge D-cell monstrosities, and as you mention, the Surefire was a 4D power from a compact size, but man...none of that was super impressive performance. This was when I had halogen work lights. I remember getting a flourescent work light, and being BLOWN AWAY at how it was bright but NOT a fire hazard....and then replacing like a dozen bulbs as it'd hit the garage floor and stop working, haha.
I'm still mostly a rechargeable AA guy, and Eneloops still are the single greatest advancement in battery technology, haha. When all flashlights sucked, the operating costs could get out of hand so much.

The very first, horrible ugly LED flashlights were just so much brighter from a single AA. I didn't look at anything seriously until I needed a bicycle light a few years ago. Turned it on, "Oh, wow. I think things have advanced a LOT..."

I watched the linked video before and after really understanding INFRNL's runtime graphs. It's wild that "that long taper" is something the CR123A/Incandescent crew LIKES because they were used to it, because those batteries are so horrible.

Besides cost, I didn't take flashlights seriously in those days because incandescent performance was so bad, the batteries were so bad, runtimes were so bad, and...did I mention the cost? Imagine blowing $100 for essentially LESS performance than a Convoy T3 today...for $15...running an Eneloop, hahaha.

Hey New Guy, do you really need to write a book for every response?

The good lord gave you 2 ears, and 1 mouth, for a reason.
 
Hey New Guy, do you really need to write a book for every response?

The good lord gave you 2 ears, and 1 mouth, for a reason.

1735941338447.gif

Ok, Boomer.

I guess your life is so empty and you're so bitter, you're trying to start some kind of drama because you desperately need attention.

Sorry your life didn't turn out the way you wanted it to.

New Year, New You. Maybe 2025 can be the year you make a friend!

Good luck!
 
Ok, Boomer.

I guess your life is so empty and you're so bitter, you're trying to start some kind of drama because you desperately need attention.

Sorry your life didn't turn out the way you wanted it to.

New Year, New You. Maybe 2025 can be the year you make a friend!

Good luck!

The one looking for attention and full of drama, is you, New Guy
 

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Ok, Boomer.

I guess your life is so empty and you're so bitter, you're trying to start some kind of drama because you desperately need attention.

Sorry your life didn't turn out the way you wanted it to.

New Year, New You. Maybe 2025 can be the year you make a friend!

Good luck!
Hey! Both of Ya'll Play Nice! You boys say you're sorry to each other, and then head over to the Non-Flashlight Items For Sale and one of you buy my Benchmade! I'm serious!
 
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