Your Thoughts on Pelican's 7600 ...

AZPops

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Hey CPF; Before hitting that order button (the lights been in my buy list for a while now). I wanted to ask for your help / thoughts on a Pelican 7600. This is in regards to it's beam profile, switch, build, etc., and overall (pros & cons) recommendation of this light.

The reason I'm considering this light; the property I'm working on has initiated the change in their overhead lighting to LED's. The overhead lamps does not have a filter on them, ie. the LED's are bare, with no cover to soften the harshness of the LED. The glare is tough on the eyes, which also kills my night vision, as well as it hides anything in it's shadow. So, I'm hoping to find a light that can punch through this lighting, when looking beyond, and lighting up the shadows.

My (smooth bodied 500 lum P2X) Fury does OK, but it has a difficult time punching through the lighting. Spec wise, the Pelican is approx 3/4 inch longer, similar bezel width, and just over an oz heavier. Which will also fit in my kit / holster, so no changes in how I carry the light, or what fuel they run on.

Thanks,

Pops
 
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Modernflame

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I don't own a Pelican light, but based on the output specs of the 7600 along with the diameter and depth of the reflector, I think the beam profile of this Pelican light will be very similar to your SF P2X Fury. I used to own a Fury and it's a bright light with a well defined hot spot. If the Fury is not sufficient to over come your ambient lighting, then you might need to consider a flashlight with a larger bezel, a deeper reflector, and a tighter hot spot.
 

AZPops

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I don't own a Pelican light, but based on the output specs of the 7600 along with the diameter and depth of the reflector, I think the beam profile of this Pelican light will be very similar to your SF P2X Fury. I used to own a Fury and it's a bright light with a well defined hot spot. If the Fury is not sufficient to over come your ambient lighting, then you might need to consider a flashlight with a larger bezel, a deeper reflector, and a tighter hot spot.


Good point. Thanks for your opinion / recommendation. I was hoping the extra lumens (944 vs 500) would be enough to give the light the edge. If I have to go larger, I'll keep the Fury in it's holster, and deal with this new lighting. Although I don't wear hats (nothing against hats, just don't wear'um). I'm considering a baseball (style) hat to keep the LED's out of my eyes.

Thanks again,

Pops
 
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bykfixer

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I don't own the 7600, but do own some other Pelicans and they are well worth the coin.
The ones I own appear brighter than the numbers suggest.

The ones I own began as low power throwers. Pencil beam as it were, with good candela numbers for the given lumens. As each was upgraded the beam becomes a bit less throwy and a lot more spill. Instead of a beam that looks light a spotlight they end up real nice overall lighting with respectable throw and a beam teetering on the edge of neutral.

Nothing wrong with SureFire in my mind, but for the money Pelican lights are worth it.
 

AZPops

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I don't own the 7600, but do own some other Pelicans and they are well worth the coin.
The ones I own appear brighter than the numbers suggest.

The ones I own began as low power throwers. Pencil beam as it were, with good candela numbers for the given lumens. As each was upgraded the beam becomes a bit less throwy and a lot more spill. Instead of a beam that looks light a spotlight they end up real nice overall lighting with respectable throw and a beam teetering on the edge of neutral.

Nothing wrong with SureFire in my mind, but for the money Pelican lights are worth it.


Yes, (although this light is made in China) I'm confident the build, and quality control is there, and Pelican's lifetime warranty is another plus. Now it's a matter of if this light will make a difference, and not just similar, or too similar to the Fury.

Thanks,

Pops
 
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bykfixer

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Those SureFire products are already pretty good at their role. Perhaps you need to look into a more focused light like the EB1 or 2 series where a pencil beam cuts through existing harsh lighting without adding even more light around the edges.

It sounds like you already have plenty of free lumens filling the spill role. What I mean is in your side to side vision it is already well lit and what you need is a light that only throws light beyond all that.

Trouble is everything these days is largely going for a maximum amount of light in general while having a nice bit of throw. Pencil beams are on the decrease.
I know it may sound silly here and will not fit your holster, but those Maglite 3C sized ML25's fit that role very well.
They don't tout a whopping number of lumens but they punch a hole through free lumens very well. US made and are very reasonably priced. I'd say the 2C except for the runtime aspect. The 3C is 18 hours with a slow taper to dim where the 2C is a rock solid 2 hour output with a 30 minute dim time.

But if your budget will stand it I'd say the SureFire EB1 and EB2 are the long term way to go.

And yes a baseball hat will help. Unless your threat is in the trees or floors above you a ball call will definitely help some.
Another idea is try holding the light at hip level so all those spill lumens will we down there and the spot will still be there. We tend to hold flashlight near our eyes but in smoke or fog aiming it from a lower or higher position helps greatly.
 
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hsa

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Those SureFire products are already pretty good at their role. Perhaps you need to look into a more focused light like the EB1 or 2 series where a pencil beam cuts through existing harsh lighting without adding even more light around the edges.

It sounds like you already have plenty of free lumens filling the spill role. What I mean is in your side to side vision it is already well lit and what you need is a light that only throws light beyond all that.

Trouble is everything these days is largely going for a maximum amount of light in general while having a nice bit of throw. Pencil beams are on the decrease.
I know it may sound silly here and will not fit your holster, but those Maglite 3C sized ML25's fit that role very well.
They don't tout a whopping number of lumens but they punch a hole through free lumens very well. US made and are very reasonably priced. I'd say the 2C except for the runtime aspect. The 3C is 18 hours with a slow taper to dim where the 2C is a rock solid 2 hour output with a 30 minute dim time.

But if your budget will stand it I'd say the SureFire EB1 and EB2 are the long term way to go.

And yes a baseball hat will help. Unless your threat is in the trees or floors above you a ball call will definitely help some.
Another idea is try holding the light at hip level so all those spill lumens will we down there and the spot will still be there. We tend to hold flashlight near our eyes but in smoke or fog aiming it from a lower or higher position helps greatly.
 

AZPops

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Those SureFire products are already pretty good at their role. Perhaps you need to look into a more focused light like the EB1 or 2 series where a pencil beam cuts through existing harsh lighting without adding even more light around the edges.

It sounds like you already have plenty of free lumens filling the spill role. What I mean is in your side to side vision it is already well lit and what you need is a light that only throws light beyond all that.

Trouble is everything these days is largely going for a maximum amount of light in general while having a nice bit of throw. Pencil beams are on the decrease.
I know it may sound silly here and will not fit your holster, but those Maglite 3C sized ML25's fit that role very well.
They don't tout a whopping number of lumens but they punch a hole through free lumens very well. US made and are very reasonably priced. I'd say the 2C except for the runtime aspect. The 3C is 18 hours with a slow taper to dim where the 2C is a rock solid 2 hour output with a 30 minute dim time.

But if your budget will stand it I'd say the SureFire EB1 and EB2 are the long term way to go.

And yes a baseball hat will help. Unless your threat is in the trees or floors above you a ball call will definitely help some.
Another idea is try holding the light at hip level so all those spill lumens will we down there and the spot will still be there. We tend to hold flashlight near our eyes but in smoke or fog aiming it from a lower or higher position helps greatly.


Thanks for your insight/s!

In regards to the dang hat. It's funny, but the way I look at wearing a ball cap at night, is much like wearing sunglasses indoors. But heck if it works, it works. I just couldn't convince myself to wearing one last night. ... :laughing:

Maglite's are a good idea, but they are just too darn heavy. I own two, may be three, both original and LED, and the LED has a narrow beam. I'll drop in a few fresh cells in the LED, to test the beam profile / see how it does.

Good idea on the Surefire's. If my LX2 had the extra lumens, I can see how the EB2 would work. I was checking out Gene's M61HOT, but I can't do the twist to change modes.

I agree, re. holding the light at hip level. I found it works great. While walking in the open, I carry the Fury (now no laughing) at hip level with the tail cap activated by my pinky. Other then that method of carry, not sure how to carry it at hip level.

I thought this was going to be easy. :( ... I guess my Fury doesn't want to be bumped out of it's holster! ... LOL

Thanks again!

Pops


PS Talking about the EB2, I just thought about something. I don't know why I didn't take my Fury with the XPG-2 swap out, to see how it would do (this one has the narrower beam profile). I'll pull it out of my flashlight case, then give it a try tonight!

PPS Why do I feel like I'm in therapy!
 
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bykfixer

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Pinky mode is ideal for hip height use, especially if you just want momentary.
Keeps the other phlanges (spelling) available for grip.

That's one of the times a side switch is good. Thumb press.

I placed eneloop pros in C adapters in my ML25 (2 cell). Feels like it's empty. Get the beam where you want it and use the tailcap for on/off. With practice one handed becomes easy.

Definitely try that swap of SureFire stuff and let us know how it works for you.
 
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AZPops

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Pinky mode is ideal for hip height use, especially if you just want momentary.
Keeps the other phlanges (spelling) available for grip.

That's one of the times a side switch is good. Thumb press.

I placed eneloop pros in C adapters in my ML25 (2 cell). Feels like it's empty. Get the beam where you want it and use the tailcap for on/off. With practice one handed becomes easy.

Definitely try that swap of SureFire stuff and let us know how it works for you.


Sure will! It's out of the case, swapped the stock body for the OR 18650 body, and a fresh cell. We'll see how it goes tonight.

Pops
 

Bronco

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Hey CPF; Before hitting that order button (the lights been in my buy list for a while now). I wanted to ask for your help / thoughts on a Pelican 7600. This is in regards to it's beam profile, switch, build, etc., and overall (pros & cons) recommendation of this light.

The reason I'm considering this light; the property I'm working on has initiated the change in their overhead lighting to LED's. The overhead lamps does not have a filter on them, ie. the LED's are bare, with no cover to soften the harshness of the LED. The glare is tough on the eyes, which also kills my night vision, as well as it hides anything in it's shadow. So, I'm hoping to find a light that can punch through this lighting, when looking beyond, and lighting up the shadows.

My (smooth bodied 500 lum P2X) Fury does OK, but it has a difficult time punching through the lighting. Spec wise, the Pelican is approx 3/4 inch longer, similar bezel width, and just over an oz heavier. Which will also fit in my kit / holster, so no changes in how I carry the light, or what fuel they run on.

Thanks,

Pops

As others have hinted at, it's pretty clear from your description that you need lux more than lumens to help expose the shadows in an already decently well lit environment.

To that end, your Pelican 7600 is going to pump out around 12K cd. For not too much more money, you can greatly increase that throw without gaining much at all in size. Vinh at Sky Lumens offers some small modded lights that would serve you very well. Consider for example either his Lumintop SDminiVN at 55K lux and $70, his Nitecore MH20GTvn at 28K lux and $125, or his Eagle TX25C2vn at 71K lux and $170. All provide a variety of different features commensurate with their price points.
 

AZPops

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As others have hinted at, it's pretty clear from your description that you need lux more than lumens to help expose the shadows in an already decently well lit environment.

To that end, your Pelican 7600 is going to pump out around 12K cd. For not too much more money, you can greatly increase that throw without gaining much at all in size. Vinh at Sky Lumens offers some small modded lights that would serve you very well. Consider for example either his Lumintop SDminiVN at 55K lux and $70, his Nitecore MH20GTvn at 28K lux and $125, or his Eagle TX25C2vn at 71K lux and $170. All provide a variety of different features commensurate with their price points.


Hey Bronco, thanks for the heads up on Wayne's lights. I was checking out his forum yesterday. Aside from one light (which I ended up sending it to him to do some tweaking), he's done all of my emitter swaps, as well as installing his driverVN2 in my E1b. Although I haven't seen it in awhile (primarily due to being a single mode light), I have one of his modded Mealstrom G5's. I'll see how my XPG-2 Fury does tonight. If it doesn't do the trick. I'll check out his subforum and do more reading.

Thanks again,

Pops
 
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Bronco

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Hey Bronco, thanks for the heads up on Wayne's lights. I was checking out his forum yesterday. Aside from one light (which I ended up sending it to him to do some tweaking), he's done all of my emitter swaps, as well as installing his driverVN2 in my E1b. Although I haven't seen it in awhile (primarily due to being a single mode light), I have one of his modded Mealstrom G5's. I'll see how my XPG-2 Fury does tonight. If it doesn't do the trick. I'll check out his subforum and do more reading.

Thanks again,

Pops

Oh cool. So you're already well aware of Vinh's work.

FWIW, I've had one of his modded TX25s for a couple years and it throws really well for its size.
 

AZPops

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Oh cool. So you're already well aware of Vinh's work.

FWIW, I've had one of his modded TX25s for a couple years and it throws really well for its size.


Nice, Bronco! ... :thumbsup:

Well, as promised. My update; the XPG-2 Fury did the trick last night. Could I use something brighter? Sure, but at distance, it lit up the shadow well enough that I could see a wabbit hopping around (not sure if I'd see the wabbit if he/she was sitting still. However it threw enough light for the task). I've forgotten that the XPG-2's beam profile is similar to my LX2 (hot spot with a very light spill), which is the narrowest profile I'd want to use as my primary overall light for this 12 acre property.

To give you an idea of the beam profiles. Here are a few comparison pitchers I took of the (OEM) XML Fury and the XPG2 swapped Fury. These pitchers were taken a long time ago, BTW.

It's 35 yards to the hedge / fence line, and approx 70 plus yards to the far wall:

XML Fury;



XPG-2 Fury;




This will give you another example, re. the intensity of the hot spot:

XML Fury;



XPG-2 Fury;




Thanks again for your'alls time discussing what light / beam profile would do a better job at what I was wanting to accomplish! ... :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I'm sorry Pelican, one of these days I'll pick up one of your lights.

Pops


PS CPF saving me money? What is this world coming to? ... :laughing:
 
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Arizona_Mike

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I regret buying my Pelican 2360. Hi is very bright but low has really bad low-frequency PWM that actually appears to flicker like a candle to my brain/retina.
On the otherhand it is very well built/tough. Might be a candidate for modding.
 

AZPops

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I regret buying my Pelican 2360. Hi is very bright but low has really bad low-frequency PWM that actually appears to flicker like a candle to my brain/retina.
On the otherhand it is very well built/tough. Might be a candidate for modding.


That would have been a bummer. I use the low quite a bit while walking in certain areas of the property. The stated 37 lumen low was another question I had about the 7600. Whether it was too bright.

Thanks for the heads up,

Pops
 

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