Z2 Host First Time Upgrade

[nihilon]

Well, after searching and searching the forums, I was unable to find anything that specifically addressed my question, so, here goes (I apologize if I missed a thread that does and this ends up being a repost, new guy, please have mercy).

I have a Z2 and a KT1. Though useful as the N1 is, I want a HOLA to go with it. To that end, I've been eyeing the LF EO-M3T 9V (450 lumens flavor). I'm gonna grab an A19 to give me the extra cell but my question is what other options do I have for the LA? Is the EO-M3T a good choice? This is my first attempt at modding a light in anyway so please, let the suggestions, comments and ideas flow.

****UPDATE (10/22/2010)****
Well, these pictures aren't best as all I've got to take any with is my phone. But here is what I've got!

This is the entire set of legos for my 6PL...

Here's the K1 and MN16 assembled...

And there is my pseudo M3T completely assembled.

Thanks for the help folks

 

[Brigadier]

You could power the EO-M3T in the stock Z2 body with IMR16340's, for a little bit anyway.

To power the KT1 and EO-M3T, I would look into a FM 18500 body of 9P length.

 

[nihilon]

You could power the EO-M3T in the stock Z2 body with IMR16340's, for a little bit anyway.

To power the KT1 and EO-M3T, I would look into a FM 18500 body of 9P length.

If I were to go the route of using a pair of IMRs, is there any sort of special care that needs to be taken with the cells? A break-in cycle or anything like that? Also, would you happen to be able to throw out an estimate of what the runtime could be like versus going with a three cell (primaries for now, until I become more comfortable with using rechargeable cells) setup? I've never dabbled much into using rechargeables for anything. I've always preferred primaries for one reason or another.

Would there be a tremendous difference, besides the aesthetics, of simply attaching an A19 to the Z2 body as opposed to using a whole other body (that is a full 3-cell length I guess)?

 

[Brigadier]

If I were to go the route of using a pair of IMRs, is there any sort of special care that needs to be taken with the cells? A break-in cycle or anything like that? Also, would you happen to be able to throw out an estimate of what the runtime could be like versus going with a three cell (primaries for now, until I become more comfortable with using rechargeable cells) setup? I've never dabbled much into using rechargeables for anything. I've always preferred primaries for one reason or another.

Would there be a tremendous difference, besides the aesthetics, of simply attaching an A19 to the Z2 body as opposed to using a whole other body (that is a full 3-cell length I guess)?

IMR cells are safe chemistry so there is no worry about with smoke and fire. They are also able to handle much higher current draws than protected Li-ions.

Attaching an A19 to a Z2 body would put the cigar grip section in an awkward position is all. For a really bright incan in a 6P/Z2 size light, I prefer a LF IMR-9 powered by 2 IMR16340's as a short burst tactical light.

To take advantage of a turbo head, I would really recommend a 9P/G3 type body and running IMR17500's, or get a bored body and run IMR18500's.

 

[nihilon]

Attaching an A19 to a Z2 body would put the cigar grip section in an awkward position is all...

To take advantage of a turbo head, I would really recommend a 9P/G3 type body and running IMR17500's, or get a bored body and run IMR18500's.

Alright, my only remaining questions then are these: What, if any, sort of break in cycle may be required by a set of rechargeable cells? I read somewhere here on CPF that rechargeables (specifically, Eneloops) should have a sort of break in cycle(s) run on them before use to ensure maximum capacity or something like that. Would that be the case with these types of cells? Would you also recommended a specific brand or type of charger?

 

[mdocod]

Hi nihilon,

This was written many years ago but may help you get your feet wet on the lithium-ion conversion concept:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536

The EO-M3T is not a great candidate for driving with 3xCR123s. It needs more voltage than they can provide at that load to run correctly.

LumensFactory lumen ratings are much different than SureFire ratings. As a very rough rule of thumb, Divide LumensFactory ratings in half to compare to SureFire lumens. In some cases it can be much more or less than that depending on how you drive the bulb, and in the case of the EO-M3T, running it on 3xCR123s would results in something more on the much less side of that rough estimate.

IMO the Z2 is such a neat body I wouldn't want to slap an extender on it. I think if it were me, I would pick up a pair of IMR16340s for it and play with some bulb options. Grab a MN15 and MN16 to play with in the KT1 head. Runtime isn't exactly great, but it's not terrible either, since it's rechargeable, the runtime isn't as important right? hehe...

Check out the various threads of interest regarding lithium-ion cells over in the batteries section of the forum to brush up and get ready to use them (if you are interested). Don't be afraid, the IMR16340s are actually safer than a CR123 primary

Eric

 

[Chrontius]

G2Z isn't exactly a Z2, but it's close - you have a little more heat sinking ability, but with incans, it's not as critical as LEDs.

I have used a Surefire P91 in this configuration (2xIMR, bigass lamp) producing 420 tested torch lumens. The Lumens Factory IMR-9 produces similar lumens, but a tighter hot spot.

If you want to use a Surefire turbohead with your Z2, the KT2 turbohead comes with an MN15 and should work nicely with an MN16 (the M3T comes with both bulbs; it stands to reason that the KT2 is compatible with both, but hopefully someone with experience will chime in)

Also, does anybody know where the grip ring on the Z2 sits with no spacers and the one-cell body extension?

 

[mdocod]

If you want to use a Surefire turbohead with your Z2, the KT2 turbohead comes with an MN15 and should work nicely with an MN16 (the M3T comes with both bulbs; it stands to reason that the KT2 is compatible with both, but hopefully someone with experience will chime in)

Hi Chrontius,

The TurboHead and adapter sleeve included with KT1 and KT2 kits from SureFire are exactly the same. The only difference is that kit number 1 comes with the N1 bulb for 2xCR123, and kit number 2 comes with an MN15 (used to come with N2) for use on 3xCR123. The N1 and N2 bulbs have the same lamp base (tower) shape/size as the MN15 and other M3T/M4/M6 bulbs. So people use all of the MN series turbo-head lamps in various configurations in the KT1/2 series heads pretty frequently. If I understand correctly, even a KT5 kit includes the same turbohead, just a different adapter sleeve.

Eric

 

[BigusLightus]

I use a KT-1 with FM's MN bi-pin adapter and an WA1160 bulb all driven by two AW IMR 16340s. Not much for run time but it sure lights up the night! Body tube is a 6P of course.

 

[Casper507]

You may want to consider what you wish to do with the flashlight.

Walk into a white gloss latex painted room and turn on a 450 lumen flashlight with normal hot spot and spill dispersion and you may want to go with something a little more subdued.

If you really want/need more lumens get the new Overready drop-in with 3 leds for 700-1100 lumens depending on tint and #of cells (Good luck on catching them in stock.) Overready also has a frosted lens which will give a floody more even beam.

I have a 350 lumen MCE which doesn't glare back too much in a white room. The LEDs are such that the beam is more of a flood beam with some artifacts. It seems to just fade out to the edges instead of a defined focus hot spot.

I have a Z2. For a room clearing light it is a great setup with a simple drop in. I wouldn't even consider putting so large a head as the KT1 on it.

If was looking for throw out in the country and wanted to use a KT1 I'd consider IMRs and a Five Mega host and possibly an extension for 2x18650s.

 

[nihilon]

Thanks for all the input folks. I've settled on using an A19 and MN16 with the KT1 on my 6P's body instead of the Z2. I think I'm sticking with primaries for now seeing as how I've got a small handle full of them and I have yet to finish reading that thread on RCs. Again, thanks for the help!

 

[ampdude]

For a really bright incan in a 6P/Z2 size light, I prefer a LF IMR-9 powered by 2 IMR16340's as a short burst tactical light.

To take advantage of a turbo head, I would really recommend a 9P/G3 type body and running IMR17500's, or get a bored body and run IMR18500's.

There are no IMR17500's, though I really hope we will see them someday soon! My tactical nightstand light is a Surefire C2 with a Z58 clicky, an IMR-9 and two IMR16340 cells. I believe that and a Z2 in similar configuration (Z59 clicky) or the G2Z are the three best choices out there for small tactical ultra-bright xenon lights.

 

[Brigadier]

You are correct. I guess I meant AW17500, guess it was wishful thinking on my part.

 

[angelofwar]

While you lose the "cigar grip" ability, the A19 added makes it real nice to hold in the over hand (neck index) method. It gives a real solid grip...so, if you use it alot for actually "searching" or lightting things up, as oppsed to a light you're goingto walk with, the A19 is "astectically" pleasing to hold in the over hand method.

 

[Chrontius]

I'd have suggested a Leef Detonator grip-extension, but they've been discontinued for years (x_x). I guess it's worth looking for one used, or at least being aware of.

 

[nihilon]

Well, it's been a minute since I last posted, but I ended up slapping the A19 and KT1 with an MN16 onto the body of my 6PL. And it worked out nicely . I just ended up sticking a P61 into the Z2, and am contemplating picking up a Malkoff drop in for it...but that's for the LED section....

 

[Xacto]

Well, it's been a minute since I last posted, but I ended up slapping the A19 and KT1 with an MN16 onto the body of my 6PL.just ended up sticking a P61 into the Z2]

Pictures please.

Thanks

Cheers
Thorsten

 

[nihilon]

I'm working on getting pictures up. I am currently away from home so to speak, so it's proving a little tougher than I originally expected to get some decent pics and get them posted. But they should be coming any day here.

 

[nihilon]

Picture up. Only one for now

 

[BigusLightus]

For higher current applications I recommend the Overready Zero Resistance upgrade for the SureFire Z41 switch. It made a sincere increase in output on my 6P + KT-1 + WA1160 + 2xIMR16340.