Zebralight H501 Part 2
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f22shift
Flashlight Enthusiast
be careful when you are flexing the steel. you can puncture the rubber and then you have a rubber sleeve with steel points to scratch your light.
the clip is more of holding onto thicker items like a belt.
i'm not sure if i even trust it on the belt. i can imagine bending over and my fat belly knocks it off.:rock:
so one of the reasons i got this is to have a light for hiking that i dont necessarily have to use on the head.
i think using the extra headband and attaching it semi permanent to a hiking pack strap would be a good solution. or wearing the headband around the neck and rotating the light forward(can't do that with other headlamps).
i'm not sure if someone has a better idea
:shrug:
oh, i tried with the extra head holder with a velcro loop for belt use. that would hold it more securily but you have to put it on tight or it wiggles when you walk. which you can see, if it's not on tight.
the clip is more of holding onto thicker items like a belt.
i'm not sure if i even trust it on the belt. i can imagine bending over and my fat belly knocks it off.:rock:
so one of the reasons i got this is to have a light for hiking that i dont necessarily have to use on the head.
i think using the extra headband and attaching it semi permanent to a hiking pack strap would be a good solution. or wearing the headband around the neck and rotating the light forward(can't do that with other headlamps).
i'm not sure if someone has a better idea
:shrug:oh, i tried with the extra head holder with a velcro loop for belt use. that would hold it more securily but you have to put it on tight or it wiggles when you walk. which you can see, if it's not on tight.
I'm trying to figure out if I actually got the H501w that I ordered. Mine has a very vanilla tint, which seems to look like the regular H501 Q5 edition, instead of the peachy tint of the Q3-5A.
Is there some way to verify which one I have? Mine has a dark yellowish core. Is there a difference in the color of the core (I think that's the correct name for the little square) for the two emitters?
Is there some way to verify which one I have? Mine has a dark yellowish core. Is there a difference in the color of the core (I think that's the correct name for the little square) for the two emitters?
I looked at the numbers for the H50 and H501 and they seem quite believable to me. I think no one mentioned it earlier but 66 lumens for 2.33 hour for the H50 doesn't seem to be really that efficient. ZL probably now simply has a better behaving circuit.
If I did my math correctly, to achieve 66 lumen output the H50 would need around 0.25A on the LED.That would be 3.12V Vf and around 0.65A taken from a NiMH. Multiplied by 2.33 hours runtime it would give around 1.5Wh needed for a light with a perfectly efficient circuit. A 2700 mAh cell holds approximately 3Wh. That would mean that the H50 circuit consumes 3Wh when the perfect one would need 1.5Wh. In other words, the overall H50 efficiency in the high mode would be only around 0.5. Quite an interesting place for improvement here, I think.
With the similar calculations one would see that for the H501 such an efficiency figure is around 70%-75% (96lm, 2.3h, 0.36A on the LED, 3.17Vf, 0.95A on the battery, 2.3Wh needed for a perfect circuit).
These are only really approximate calculations and we would not know for sure before someone performs a full runtime test. But I believe they show that the advertised 96lm for 2.3h seems to be achievable. And these figures are definitely much closer to the truth than those provided by some other manufactures who claim to be able to drive the LED with twice the amount of the energy than they have in an AA NiMH cell.
From the pictures, it looks like the H501 emitter is kind of a fluorescent yellow whereas the H501w emitter is more of a school bus yellow. Is that right?
drmaxx
Enlightened
Thanks for doing the math. The reason why I concluded that the runtime with 96 Lumens is from the description on the website:
The maximum sure is achived with the LiIon battery.....
I thought I had heard that the H501 actually had lower output on high using a 14500...
I think that's how they look like. Maybe the H501w is a bit darker than school bus yellow. When I compared the H501 emitter to another Q5 I have, they were very similar. The Q3 was easily distinguishable. At least that's what I remember - I don't have these lights with me now. And I never personally saw an (U.S.) school bus
Yes, that's how they behaved in my tests (link). In the high mode they were half as bright for LiIons as for NiMHs. That's one of the reason I assumed that the brightness and runtime values provided by ZL are for NiMHs.
drmaxx
Enlightened
Assuming is not always the best way to go....It's good that there are people who actually measure :twothumbs.
Still, I am wondering why LiIon should be less bright then NiMH. Let's hope that one of the electronic gurus here on the board can chime in.
It's good that there are people who actually measure :twothumbs.
Well, I had to assume for what chemistry ZL advertised the H501 parameters - it's not mentioned on their website (while for the H50 they say it's Sanyo 2700 NiMH). And of course I measured the brightness. A digital camera is not a calibrated luxmeter so I preferred not to talk about the precise absolute values but I believe the measured relative changes in brightness should be pretty accurate.
cheetokhan
Enlightened
Ordered a warm emitter version a couple weeks ago. It arrived today but definitely does not have a warm emitter:sigh:
Mine has a very harsh, greenish tint to it, just like my older H30.
Sent Zebralight an email. Hopefully they will exchange it for the correct version.
Edit: after further testing I believe I did actually get the warm emitter I ordered. See my post later in this thread.
And Zebralight did respond to my email within 24hrs:thumbsup:
Mine has a very harsh, greenish tint to it, just like my older H30.
Sent Zebralight an email. Hopefully they will exchange it for the correct version.
Edit: after further testing I believe I did actually get the warm emitter I ordered. See my post later in this thread.
And Zebralight did respond to my email within 24hrs:thumbsup:
Last edited:
AvPD
Enlightened
I hate to ask, but what is wrong with having more than 10 pages on a thread? The inconveniences of not being able to reply to earlier posts and having to find the links at the end and start of each 'part' surely outweigh whatever convenience (if any) is gained by it.
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
If that happens to me I would return it. Greenish tint is kinda sad and made worse when you expected nice warm 5A tint. :mecry:
Unforgiven
Flashlight Enthusiast
The only thing wrong with it is in the past, long threads created problems within the software itself. Reducing the possibility of a forum slowdown or even a total shutdown and being able to continue to post on a particular subject would seem to outweigh the inconvenience of putting forth a bit more effort to make a reply.
Alan B
Flashlight Enthusiast
Someone might want to check with rcgroups.com. They use the same software and have many threads with hundreds of pages with no apparent problem.
When comparing the new H501 to my H30 the H30 appears slightly greenish, while the H501 appears slightly yellow. It is NOT the warm Q3 5A tint, but it seems to be a warmer Q5 tint. Unfortunately the LED tints are not quite under control in the manufacturing process, so they must select them, and manufacturers must buy what they can get, or shop for price, at least some of the time.
I'm so confused... the output of my light is yellowish, but not peachy. Certainly not green or blue, but not like my other 5A lights. What do I have?
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Alan.
That is a bit different from ordering a 5A and getting a green tinted Q5.
That is a bit different from ordering a 5A and getting a green tinted Q5.
