ZebraLight H502 XM-L

[mobi]

Thanks, everyone.

wb was auto? the h502 seems to be warmer than the h51w

Shots were taken with automatic white balance.

 

[varuscelli]

^^^^^
Great job explaining and awesome pics!!

Floody lights are hard to capture-
My biking headlamp has 2 bare hiCRI XPG @2.8a & 4C XML in SMO 3.5a
I was trying to get a beamshot of the flood but the camera was just getting the hotspot.
Until these shots I thought it was impossible.
Although mine is like an H600w +2 H50w all on overdrive haha

Id bet with the 502 u can roll yer eyes down and still see without moving yet head

I just scored an h501w on the MP for EDC in my guitar case.

I might consider the 18650 & W or C of this when/if it comes out tho.

Thanks, psychbeat. And yes -- in my limited experience, capturing accurate beam shots is among the most challenging things for me...and I've got quite a lot of general photography experience. I personally don't find accurate beam shot capture easy, and I think all the variables involved make it a trickier thing to do that it might appear on the surface. Matching what your eyes see is no easy task in my opinion.

I'm envious of you finding an H501w somewhere. I've got one and actually wish I had a second just to keep in reserve (for instance, in my OWN guitar case)...

That's what I wanted to hear.
That seals the deal.
I'm gettin one!
Likely even two or more.

Thanks Varuscelli.

-------------
Steve

You're welcome, Steve. I'd start with just one so you can judge for yourself. I'd hate to get blamed if you went all in and for some reason weren't quite as convinced as I am.

Everyone's got different judgment criteria, so the H502 probably won't be for everyone. I feel good about it, though, for my own needs and wants in a headlamp.

Hey, the H502 I bought is actually being given away as a long-overdue gift, but I'm testing it for a couple of days while it's in my hands before giving it to someone else this weekend (I really do want to make sure it functions perfectly, especially as a newly released lamp...it's true that some small percentage of ZL headlamps have had problems as new releases, so I have a tiny bit of caution in me related to that). I'm definitely buying one for myself shortly (ups and downs in discretionary cash flow, you know).

 

[Bolster]

Well hey...now's your chance to give it the dunk test in a glass of water! :naughty:

 

[varuscelli]

I've been seriously thinking about it, Bolster. Some folks seem to do that kind of testing with every light they get (every waterproof one, in any case), but for some reason I always cringe...although I probably cringe more at the thought of having to return the light than I do the testing.

 

[moozooh]

Hey, I see the rationale in that. It's better to find out whether the light is defective instantly rather than have it go out during a storm.

 

[Esko]

if you examine the central portion of the H502, the evenly lit portion appears just as large as the H501, then adds a falloff area around it.

On the H502 and falloff, I don't think the falloff as viewed by the eye in person is really as exaggerated as the photo seems to indicate. To the human eye (at least, to my eye), it's much more even and balanced (smooth overall) in appearance. I think still photo images tend to exaggerate falloff in most beam shots. When wearing the H502 as a headlamp, falloff is hardly noticeable at all...especially compared to the beam rendition offered by the still photos.

The "falloff" is caused by two things. The spatial distribution of the led (which is rather difficult to estimate due to the convex lens), but also the distance. The distance from the light to the wall is greater in the periphery, and the light intensity is degreasing to the second power.

Human eyes have better dynamic range than standard camera sensors (and monitors) and eyes adjust to the differences better. You could use HDR photography to better represent the beam, but the image editing involved would be subjective.

 

[thaugen]

"One area where the H502 might present a problem would be if you were reading in bed with someone trying to sleep next to you. The broader beam could actually be a problem in that kind of situation. So...it might not be ideal for everyone in every situation as a reading light."

For this reason and the nasty green tint on my H502 is the reason it went back to Zebralight...I am going to stick with my H31w (with DC fix) for now.

 

[climberkid]

I'm pretty satisfied with the spread and distribution of the light. I just want to see the D version and I'll be ready to order it!


-Alex

 

[varuscelli]

My H502 just arrived and I am very pleased with this latest offering from Zebralight! The tint does have a visible green hue on the outer rim of the beam, but this is only noticeable with white wall hunting. I normally prefer warm or neutral tints in all my lights, but the cool flood looks great with my kindle screen.

I like the size, fit and finish is excellent, the adjustable levels on Medium and Low is nice and I really appreciate the new four click battery level meter. Well done Zebralight!

One area where the H502 might present a problem would be if you were reading in bed with someone trying to sleep next to you. The broader beam could actually be a problem in that kind of situation. So...it might not be ideal for everyone in every situation as a reading light.

For this reason and the nasty green tint on my H502 is the reason it went back to Zebralight...I am going to stick with my H31w (with DC fix) for now.

Hmmm. I thought I had remembered you writing about how you liked it a few days ago, so I had to look again.

That's quite a reversal. I mean, I'm just sayin'...

 

[davidt1]

My H502 came from Amazon today. Since I suck at taking pictures, please don't expect beam shots from me. Others have done a much better job than I ever could.

Pros: I feel like repeating what has been said about it already but here goes....It's small and light, much smaller than the H51. This makes it a better neck light than the H51. It's very bright, much brighter than the H501. Beam spread is super wide, might be too wide for some people. I would happily settle for a 100 degree beam.

Cons: these are minor and objective. I hate and detest that glowing thing. Don't need it. Don't want it. Anybody who is worth his salt to be a CPF member shouldn't need this gaudy feature to find his light in the dark. My H502 has a faint but noticeable hot spot when looking at a white wall.

Conclusion: I like it a lot. Except for the faint hot spot, it's better than the H501. It's very bright. Let's face it. If everything else is equal, the brighter the better. I would bet that it is the brightest light for its size running an Eneloop battery. For up-close work there isn't anything on market that's smaller, brighter, and more versatile.

First thing first: putting it through a waterproofing test.

Adding a metal base for magnets attachment. I use a thin metal from brake pads. It's the black one.

Reading is easy with the super wide beam. Note that the beam not only covers the book but the whole floor below as well.

The usefulness isn't just limited to reading. Working in tight spaces is a joy with this light. The magnets come in handy when it is not practical to use the light as a headlamp.

The entire area under the sink is evenly lit.

The H502 has immediately replaced the H51w as my neck light. The H51w now goes in a belt sheath.

H502 around neck

And H51w goes on the belt.

The H502 completes my light setup. Now I have an all flood light and a more throwy light. Seriously, there is nothing else I want.

 

[varuscelli]

I don't think anyone has posted a pic of this, so I'll do it. I can't really say I like the GITD reflector...nor can I say I actually dislike it. I do find it kind of a strange, personally.

Does the reflector coating actually serve to help diffuse the beam a bit to keep it from having too much of a hot spot and to ease the transition from center to spill? I don't recall if any of this has been discussed. Perhaps this was a workaround to achieve what they've done to get the wide beam in conjunction with a reflector...(?)

Maybe without this particular size and shape of reflector, the beam wouldn't have enough reach or be controlled enough in its 120 degree spread...and with a standard reflector, too much of a hot spot...so maybe with the coating, a compromise in the middle was reached. And perhaps the ZebraLight logic was that if they needed something to help the reflector do the job they wanted it to do, why not make it GITD? Just guessing.

 

[thaugen]

Hmmm. I thought I had remembered you writing about how you liked it a few days ago, so I had to look again.

That's quite a reversal. I mean, I'm just sayin'...

I think the excitement of the new light didn't allow me to evaluate my H502 accurately. With some use the very wide beam and green tint on the edges became more of an issue.

 

[tickled]

I think the excitement of the new light didn't allow me to evaluate my H502 accurately. With some use the very wide beam and green tint on the edges became more of an issue.

I know some people have said that it's unlikely that the GITD thing can cause a green glow, but when I shine 3 lumens on the GITD boot on my E03, in a dark room I can clearly see a green glow at least 6 inches out.

 

[Beacon of Light]

David can you explain how you attach the magnets? Looks like you might glue them but then the metal disk is permanent and I never like to modify lights without the way to bring them back to stock conditions. How is the magnet attached to the metal rail under your sink? I thought the magnet is just for the tail standing area and it looks like where the clip is you have a magnet attached to it or something?

 

[varuscelli]

Beacon of Light, if you slip a magnet under the clip (I use a round neodymium magnet), it will hold from the side. I think davidt1 (if I recall his old photos correctly) lets the magnet hold from the outside of the clip. I usually slip the magnet under the clip since I think it stays in place a bit better that way when detaching the lamp from the metal surface (that is, the magnet comes away with the lamp more easily when it's under the clip).

The neodymium magnet will even work with something as heavy as the SC600 (although it's a stretch, weight-wise). This shows the "under the clip" magnet use. It will hold something like the H502 with ease.

 

[varuscelli]

I think the excitement of the new light didn't allow me to evaluate my H502 accurately. With some use the very wide beam and green tint on the edges became more of an issue.

I haven't had as long to evaluate as you have (and won't have this one in hand much longer since it's going to another person in a few days), but I feel more in agreement with your first assessment...that the greenish tint around the edges (and there is definitely a greenish tint at the edges when you do the white wall thing) is only an issue in white wall hunting. In actual use, I'm just not seeing it as visible issue, especially when the H502 is worn as a headlamp. Maybe I'm just not as sensitive to the color around the periphery...I dunno.

 

[Bolster]

Var, that is an excellent shot of the glowing "reflector." Whilst I totally respect DavidT's opinion, innovations, and very clever carry style (if you've not tried it you should, it's just the ticket for certain situations, like travel and EDC), I must say I'm looking forward to the magic green glow. Always wanted a light with the glow near the emitter.

Prediction: DavidT will eventually tire of his ZL redundancy and carry a single H502, with some ingenious beam modification device that will convert it to a directional flood or spot/spill. Because so far the man's been relentlessly spartan in his carry.

 

[lampeDépêche]

Great stuff about magnet use here--I thought I had come up with the idea myself!

I agree with the principle of not gluing the magnet directly to the light--there may be times when I *don't* want a powerful magnet on it. (Nothing fancy or gee-whiz--I'm not a demining expert or a spy, I just have in mind times when I don't want to, e.g., wipe the data off my credit cards or something like that).

So I have 3/4" fender-washers super-glued to the end of my H600w and H502, and then I purchased some 11/16" neodymium magnets from K & J magnets. Plenty strong enough to hold the light in any position, even cantilevered horizontally from a vertical metal surface (which is the hardest challenge for a magnet).

I picked the 11/16" size for an additional reason: it exactly recesses into the shallow dish on the back of my Photon Freedom lights. The amount of metal in their coin-cells means that the magnet grabs them hard even without any modification. So the 11/16" magnet is a great size for attaching the Photon to anything.

But in particular, it's a great size for attaching to the back end of the ZL headlight! Now when I click my covert red Photon onto it, I have a great white-light headlight which also has a super-low red option whenever I want it.

Reading in bed? I use the red covert Photon. Tighter beam angle, and the red gives me more black-white contrast at lower light levels than any other color.

But it's still easy to pop off the Photon and slide the end of the ZL in and out of its silicon holder.

Of course, the Photon+11/16" magnet trick will work with lots of other headlamps. But it is esp. slick and compact with the ZL.

 

[davidt1]

David can you explain how you attach the magnets? Looks like you might glue them but then the metal disk is permanent and I never like to modify lights without the way to bring them back to stock conditions. How is the magnet attached to the metal rail under your sink? I thought the magnet is just for the tail standing area and it looks like where the clip is you have a magnet attached to it or something?

Yeah, you are correct. The magnets go on the clip. Because you can rotate the light to any position you want, this is a better way than the tail cap.

More impressions:

For several times my H502 couldn't be turned-off. It skipped modes when I tried to turn it off. Removing the battery was the only way to turn it off. If this happens one more time, I will send it back.

The cool tint is not the best I have seen. I have once stated that I was a neutral tint convert. Why did buy this cool version? Because I wanted as much brightness as I could get. And this light does not disappoint when it comes to brightness. Now I want a neutral/warm version too.

Did I say I hate that glowing thing? I now believe it produces the green edges.

I like the 120 degree beam very much. With the H51w, I have to turn my whole body to look at something on the side. With the H502, a slight turn of the head will do. The benefit is even more pronounced as a neck light. With the H502, the beam can point straight down at my feet and there is still enough light in front of me to see where I am going. There is no need to adjust the beam, as is often the case with the H51w.

 

[lampeDépêche]

.............

For several times my H502 couldn't be turned-off. It skipped modes when I tried to turn it off. Removing the battery was the only way to turn it off. If this happens one more time, I will send it back.

.................

Did I say I hate that glowing thing? I now believe it produces the green edges.

I like the 120 degree beam very much.
..............

I haven't had any hint of the trouble turning it off. Sounds weird. Contact problem? Yeah, by all means send it back if it continues.

Those who think that the GITD may be affecting the beam tint--does that add up in terms of the magnitude of lumens that are at stake? You are suggesting that when the LED is blasting out 200 lumens of white light, the GITD is producing enough lumens to make a ring of light around the edge that your brightness-dazzled eyes can notice. But if that's right, then when the LED is off and your eyes are dark-adjusted, you should be able to turn the GITD face to a white wall and see a large patch of green on it from the GITD.

Whereas, even with dark-adjusted eyes, I can't get the GITD to make any kind of noticeable light-patch on a white wall a meter or more away. It just doesn't send out enough light for that--it is putting out far less than the lowest low, which is 0.01 lumens--so the GITD is putting out far less than 0.00005 of the total output. Since it does not make a huge green ring or circle on my wall with the emitter off, how can it be making a huge green ring around the edge with the emitter on?

Is the idea that the emitter is somehow exciting the GITD enough to make it contribute more lumens? Or that a tiny amount of lumens, less than 0.01, are polluting the other 200?

I'm just not seeing the scenario. And haven't other people referred to a more general phenomenon of an "XM-L green ring" that shows up with other lights that don't have GITD features?

I have to say, I don't have much use for the GITD face myself, and if they offered models without it I would not pay any extra to get it. But I don't mind having it, and I certainly don't see how it can be affecting the output of the emitter when the emitter is on.

The H502 has, in my view, all and only the weaknesses I knew about before buying it: it is a cool emitter (I will much prefer the neutral, I know) and it is a pure flood, no-throw beam.

But it also has all of the strengths I hoped for: tiny, compact, bright, and wonderfully even light. 123 performance from a AA format. You never feel like you are wearing a light. But magically, everywhere you look is bathed in a gentle glow of light. You feel like you are inside of a bubble of light, like you are Glinda the Good Witch or something.

It's not for all uses, and it is certainly not for everyone. But it's an incredibly neat light to have for some purposes.