Romanko
Newly Enlightened
Sorry, I made a mistake. I mean Fc and Fd.
Zebralight H600/H604/H600F MKIV headlamp
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Sorry, I made a mistake. I mean Fc and Fd.
Hello guys.
I have a Zebralight SC 600w mk IV Plus XHP 50.2 neutral white flashlight and I really like the beam. A few days ago I start to use it to go running but it is uncomfortable to carry and I wanted to buy an H600, but I don't know witch of them.
Which of the H models has the beam more similar to the Sc600 IV Plus, I have? Maybe the H600Fc Mark IV XHP50.2 Floody 4000K High CRI? Mainly use is for running.
Thanks for your answer's.
I have a Zebralight SC 600w mk IV Plus XHP 50.2 neutral white flashlight and I really like the beam. A few days ago I start to use it to go running but it is uncomfortable to carry and I wanted to buy an H600, but I don't know witch of them.
Which of the H models has the beam more similar to the Sc600 IV Plus, I have? Maybe the H600Fc Mark IV XHP50.2 Floody 4000K High CRI? Mainly use is for running.
Thanks for your answer's.
The sc600 plus Bean will be something in between the h600w and h600fw models. The F models diffuse the beam quite alot compared to a clear glass lens. The h600w will probably be closer to the sc600 plus in beam profile.
The F series will create a beautiful even light for illuminating the path ahead of you, but you will find yourself needing to bump up the brightness to illuminate further. The H600w will punch significantly further at a lower setting but created a tighter hotspot then your sc600 plus.
There are some old videos on YouTube comparing the h600fw and h600, that's a good starting point.
I have the h600fc and love it, but miss my h600w mkii for its ability to illuminate further, especially when doing sports at speed. I could Backcountry ski at night with my h600w, but would have to go slower with my h600fc.
If you get an h600w, you can always put some DC fix and diffuse the beam when you prefer it that way.
The F series will create a beautiful even light for illuminating the path ahead of you, but you will find yourself needing to bump up the brightness to illuminate further. The H600w will punch significantly further at a lower setting but created a tighter hotspot then your sc600 plus.
There are some old videos on YouTube comparing the h600fw and h600, that's a good starting point.
I have the h600fc and love it, but miss my h600w mkii for its ability to illuminate further, especially when doing sports at speed. I could Backcountry ski at night with my h600w, but would have to go slower with my h600fc.
If you get an h600w, you can always put some DC fix and diffuse the beam when you prefer it that way.
Actually, this one is better:
https://youtu.be/ByZjoNS6L_0
https://youtu.be/ByZjoNS6L_0
Hi, I'm very interested in these headlamps, still little confused with some info though. I'm leaning towards H600FW mk4 based on what's been presented in this thread, but I'm still deciding on the pros and cons of FW vs FD and HXP35 vs XHP50.2. I understand Flood Wide, but Flood D?
As a side note, I'd love to have a headlamp that incorporates red light as an option or a filter with all the features Zebralight gives.
Any input to above would be appreaciated.
As a side note, I'd love to have a headlamp that incorporates red light as an option or a filter with all the features Zebralight gives.
Any input to above would be appreaciated.
twistedraven
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- Oct 22, 2014
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- 1,810
For Zebralight models, F and C denote their high cri varients, C being 'cool white' and D being 'day light'. Cool white is in reference to home lighting standards, where 4000k will be seen as cool compared to your average incandescent, which is around 3000k. the D lights are at 5000k, which is a CCT closer to mid-day sunlight.
The confusing part is that the lights labeled W for 'warm' are just that, they are the lights with warmer CCTs of around 4500k, but do note that the C models are even warmer at 4000k.
The confusing part is that the lights labeled W for 'warm' are just that, they are the lights with warmer CCTs of around 4500k, but do note that the C models are even warmer at 4000k.
SRSeedBurners
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2018
- Messages
- 15
I haven't found a Zebralight that has a red light option, only dedicated red lights. I'd be interested in one too. Fenix has a light with a red option (HL-60R i believe). Maybe a couple other manufacturers too.
I'm going to see Black Diamond Storm and Petzl Tactikka RGB at MEC store in Burlington, these incorporate 3 different lights in one headlamp and are fairly inexpensive in comparison to ZebraLight. Also, I bought Olight H2R Nova to compare. It seems it is a while till I can get my hands on Zebralight reading how long it takes to get one in Canada.
Glock27
Enlightened
Just got a tracking # for an XHP50.2 H600c!
G27
G27
Oh, very nice! Please give us your impressions when you get it. Thanks!
Glock27
Enlightened
Loving the H600 50.2 with clear glass as opposed frosted. I prefer a definite hot spot and 600c does not disappoint. You have to increase brightness substantially with floody to achieve same brightness on target.
G27
G27
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Here's the PID hunting in action when the light is not cooled.
Having just received my H600Fc mk IV and performed some measurements, I thought others might be interested to see how Zebralight appears to have tuned their firmware.
At my ambient temperature of 17C (63F) I did not experience any PID throttling on the lowest PID level (the nominally 562 lumen level), so to check for hunting I had to use the second highest level (nominally 980 lumen). I only had an older NCR18650B whose capacity is down to about 2.8Ah, so my times are a bit shorter than others have measured, but still quite long enough to experience throttling. I have no way to measure lumens, so I have normalised to the starting brightness as 100%:
Here is more detail of the first 15 minutes:
Note that there no longer seems to be the dramatic hunting. There is a small amount of ringing between 4 and 11 minutes, but I don't find that distracting or annoying (indeed I don't really notice it unless I am looking for it).
The regulation quality of my H600Fc is remarkable. It draws essentially the same power regardless of the battery voltage. Here is a graph (for the nominally 296 lumen level) showing the power vs battery voltage:
One implication of this is that, if we know the total energy that a battery can deliver at a given power draw, we can calculate the runtime based simply on the power. I have made some guesstimates (based on https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...asonic-ncr18650ga-lg-mj1-samsung-inr18650-35e) of the energy that a Sanyo NCR18650GA can deliver at the approximate power drawn for each level, and measured the actual power drawn by my H600Fc at each level, and arrived at the following estimates:
Note that for the PID levels these numbers assume perfect cooling; in practice the light will last significantly longer than this because it will throttle down to lower power levels when it gets too hot.
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Thanks for the info and testing. I still have doubts any changes have been made because I think that PID on the highest output will be significantly different than your testing in the second highest PID. The sc600w hi doesn't oscillate at all on the highest setting. Let us know if you get a higher discharge rate cell like the GA and get to test the highest setting. I do hope they did improve it as I feel they should have fixed that in development before releasing the light.
As it happens my new Samsung INR18650-35E cells arrived today, so I can now give you my discharge graph for the maximum (1598 lumen nominal) level, with no cooling and at an ambient temperature of 19C:
Again it is slightly underdamped, but nothing to complain about, and certainly no hunting.
