dubliftment
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2009
- Messages
- 126
thanks Tachead for confirming this. the D is already in the mail for refund and a new one shipped to me. This cuts waiting time in half.
thanks Tachead for confirming this. the D is already in the mail for refund and a new one shipped to me. This cuts waiting time in half.
Thanks for detailing the differences. I am sure glad I went with the same setup and I am very much looking forward do the D that is currently in the mail. What astonishes me most about the H600Fc is the compact beam. It has a very even transition from the middle to the edges. There is no hotspot/ spill profile but it still has some throw to it. Remarkable - for me it works much better than the typical reflector/ clear lens and the 100% pure flood LED only setup. And the SC600Fd Plus which also has a reflector/ frosted lens is sometimes too floody, competely lacking throw and I therefore tend to use the higher modes more often.
Efficiency of the H600Fc might be a bit less than with the H600w II that I had previously, but this is no issue to me. Runtimes are still great and I would prefer the better quality of the light any day.
My H600Fd III arrived - as expected I am absolutely amazed by the tint and color rendering of this light. It is actually the first light I have ever seen that has a tint which is just white and nothing else. Not yellowish, greenish or whatever. It certainly beats the FD Plus tint-wise, at least I like it more.
Nevertheless my light seems to have a driver issue. It doesn't hold the H1 and H2A modes, instead upon activation it gives a short flicker and settles somewhere between 350-450Lm. (bit brighter than H2B which is 255Lm but below H2A which is 560Lm). In this mode brightness setting it runs approx. 3,3 hours. It seems as if a capacitator is broken. PID however is not an issue, it works if the light gets too hot. I am using freshly charged MJ1 and 30Q cells, so it cannot be a battery issue. If it was, the light just would step down to M1, but it doesn't.
Since I got the light, I have used it quite a bit and while at first the flicker on H1 lasted about 30 seconds, now its only 1-2 seconds and then it remains in the "hybrid" level mentioned above. My Fc is considerably brighter in H2A and H1 so I will probably return this otherwise fantastic light. in case the flicker goes away completely, I might keep it as a backup and for handing it to my children.
I always give them my Zebralights configured to the lowest H2C setting (100-150Lm) and never talk about the double-click. But with a ZL that does not have the 800-900LM H1 it is even safer for them.
Also there seems to be a different LED used. I made a pic with both lights on L2C (0,01ish Lumens) and the LED of the Fd seems smaller. In direct comparison it also has a more defined hotspot and more throw than the Fc. I think they gave me a prototype with a Nichia 219b LED. (Don't tell TCY!) Other thoughts on this? https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=42E7C24BB6321EE7&id=42E7C24BB6321EE7%215936&parId=42E7C24BB6321EE7%21139&o=OneUp
I agree. My H600Fd MKIII is definitely as cool as I would ever want to go for a neutral white. It is just an ever so slightly yellow pure white with near zero tint shift.
NERD ALERT: Last night I used my Zebralight "d" in bed to read a book, instead of the bedside lamp. Can't do THAT with my Fenix TK75vnQ!
Man I like the tint of this thing. My wife thinks I'm nuts (not the first time for she's said that)!
I'm deciding between H600Fc MK III and the H600Fd MK III. The Fc is definitely a warm light from the pics. But I don't like real cold lights (real blue).
But it looks like to me you are saying the H600Fd MK III has a "slightly yellow pure white with near zero tint shift."?
I'm thinking the Fd might be the light I'm looking for if you are saying it has a "slight yellow pure white" light as the Fc is pretty much just a yellow from what I can tell from the pics. As my type of neutral white light is something in between the "yellow" and the "blue".
Mine when used by itself is just slightly yellowish white...but just a bit yellow. It's very pleasant.
I have a Zebralight SC5w that looks more "creamy white". But depending on the ambient light, it's usually pretty pleasing.
Does the "d" look blue any?
Absolutely not blueish at all. In my opinion it is the whitest white you can get without getting a cool white light. My brother-in-law just had the d here that he had got for Xmas. So we could compare the lights. The D is perfect for inside and C for outside. It is just as simple as that. Both have the most outstanding tint I have ever seen in flashlights.
Quick beam shot of Nichia 219B at 4500k vs XML2 easywhite at 4700k vs Luxeon T at 5000k. To my eyes, the 219B has an overall tannish tint, while the XML2 easywhite has an overall yellowish tint but closer to 'white', while the hotspot of the Luxeon T is truest to 'white', and its spill is cool white. I plan on during a 4 way comparison adding the SC63D at 5000k and using a DSLR as opposed to an old point-and-shoot for better picture quality.
Why not get both? Then you have both your bases covered or you can always sell the one that you like least. I am pretty sure I am going to order the "c" now too because I like the "d" so much(but find it a bit cool for certain things) and need a backup anyway as I have decided to sell my old headlamp.
See post #462.What things do you find the "d" to be too cool for?
Finally after a 2 months wait I got my H600Fc, fantastic light with a very nice tint! I only did about 1 hour outside but hope that this weekend I can do a full night hike.
Two questions thought, I've read somewhere that the Wizard's pocket clip fits on Zebras H600, can someone confirm it fits on the H600Fc?
And can anyone recommend a padded case case for the light, headband a possibly a spare cell? I was thinking about a 5xCR123/6xAA case?
Sorry, I sold my MH20NW so I can't take a pic but, it really fits perfectly. It is the exact right size for the channels on the light body and can be used in the bezel down or up orientation. It is black Ti coated though so it doesn't match the bezel. I haven't bothered ordering one because I only use my H600's as headlamps and never have the need for a clip. Plus, I have an Armytek C1 Pro V2 XP-L(Warm) now that I keep the clip on if I need a right angled light with a clip.Do you have a pic with that clip mentioned?
Glad you like it, I am happy with mine too.
The Wizard clip doesn't fit perfectly. The Nitecore MH20 clip fits absolutely perfectly like it was made for it. It can be found here(version B)...
http://www.nitecorestore.com/Pocket-Clip-for-Nitecore-P12-Flashlight-p/acc-clip-nitecore.htm
As for a case, I use the Gloworm Lights case and it works great. It can be found here...
https://www.action-led-lights.com/c...nd-accessories/products/hardshell-travel-case
Here are my two H600's in it with headbands and a spare cell. It will fit 2-3 spare 18650's with 2 H600's and headbands so there is lots of room.
No problem👍Thank you, will try the clip, just need to find a site that ships to Europe and the shipping costs is less than the clip itself
as for the case, seems nice but I'm looking for something smaller (have only one light to put in it )