Zebralight H600Fc Mk IV - First Impressions

Wurkkos

likethevegetable

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uxp8gSm.jpg


Woohoo, it’s finally here, about 6 weeks after the expected shipping date. This is the most anticipated flashlight I’ve purchased to date. Ordered on Nov. 13 and shipped to Canada.

Here are my initial impressions:

In comparison to my H53c, the anodizing does not look as dark or thick, in my opinion the H53c looks a bit more slick, but the H600Fc still looks great. The switches feel identical and give a good click. It’s amazing how much more of a punch this things packs. I was pleasantly surprised to find a pocket clip in the box, but it looks likes a complete afterthought and consolation gift.. I will likely be using a different one so that it carries deeper.

Size comparison:
aTSe9M2.jpg

hkcqPAF.jpg


Beam pattern is great, I’m looking forward to the more headlamp-friendly 90° flood. Now I kind of wish my H53c was frosted, but I will do some throw comparisons at similar lumens to get a better feel.

And what you’ve all been dying to know; the tint looks very nice, there is only a very slight hint of yellow to my eyes, but much less than the (almost muddy, but still nice in use) H53c’s colour. I like that the frosted lense reduces tint shift from the hotspot to the corona.
Z4gfsW1.jpg


The maximum lumen setting of 1568 lm is blazing hot and comparable to the max on my BL6 A6 3D. The minimum setting of 0.08 lm is a fair bit brighter than my H53c at 0.01 lm.

Prommagable UI works as described, although I haven’t tested the PID temperature settings yet. Will update if anything out of the ordinary is discovered. Here is what I set it to. The mode spacing is perfect for me:
SrTrQ23.png


Bonus pic of my new EDC pair:
0hA4cbC.jpg


Cheers!
 
Last edited:

NPL

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Canada
Thanks for the write up!

Glad to see the tint is nicer than h53c. From your photo, looks similar to a 219c 4000k tint which would be awesome!

How is the brightness of the headlamp on max regulated and Max PID? How does it compare to the throw of h53c?

Thanks
 

likethevegetable

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Some additional notes on the tint and beam: it has been a joy to use so far around the house. The hot spot is still visible, but it blends very nicely into the corona and spill, and the 90° spill is preferable to my H53c for headlamp use. The H600Fc’s tint definitely still looks warm, but not as warm as my H53c which looks almost yellow at the hotspot and corona side-by-side. In terms of colour rendering, my H53c makes brighter colours like red and blue appear more saturated and vivid, but suffers from making lighter colours like yellow, white, and gray too yellow, whereas the H600Fc seems more balanced. The real CRI test will be outside when I look at trees and roots. I do wish the lowest level was 0.01 lm like my H53c. The brightest level is so friggen bright though – when I was programming it I thought I was at the max setting when I was only at 980 lumens, the light got warm instantly.



I noticed a few imperfections on the anodizing. Near the cooling fins on one side only, there are a few lighter coloured areas. On the tailcap there are a few lines that look silvery. There is also some light bleeding through the button on the higher settings. Not concerned about either of these things but I thought I should mention them. The clip isn’t as bad as I initially made it out to be, I like the low profile of it, but I just wish they made it deep carry.



Overall though, I keep getting more and more excited about this light.



Tachead: I changed the font colour – I believe when I initially CTRL+C,V’d my post from MS Word to CPF, the editor tried to retain the font colour as black, which would then supersede any theme’s font colour. I pasted the post as plain text, and it should be white if your theme has a black background.



NPL: I will be doing some throw and brightness comparisons with my H53c and BLF A6.. it wasn’t too dark last night and I went to bed early (out of my girlfriend’s request, she knows I would have been up all night with my new friend!)



I am planning on comparing the H600Fc’s 296, 63, 25.7 with the H53c’s 285, 56, 26 levels for throw when I have some time. It’s very cold out where I live so I believe that will affect the values. I will also compare the frosted lens with a DC-fix and a latex glove diffuser on the H53c and provide some qualitative assessments.
 

NPL

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Thanks for the additional input. I wonder if the xhp50.2 on the FC has a lower R9 value than that of the xp-l2 on the 53c. Might explain why reds are less vivid. Looking forward to the beamshot and outdoor impressions. Wonder how fast it steps down when on max...
 

Tachead

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Jan 3, 2015
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Some additional notes on the tint and beam: it has been a joy to use so far around the house. The hot spot is still visible, but it blends very nicely into the corona and spill, and the 90° spill is preferable to my H53c for headlamp use. The H600Fc’s tint definitely still looks warm, but not as warm as my H53c which looks almost yellow at the hotspot and corona side-by-side. In terms of colour rendering, my H53c makes brighter colours like red and blue appear more saturated and vivid, but suffers from making lighter colours like yellow, white, and gray too yellow, whereas the H600Fc seems more balanced. The real CRI test will be outside when I look at trees and roots. I do wish the lowest level was 0.01 lm like my H53c. The brightest level is so friggen bright though – when I was programming it I thought I was at the max setting when I was only at 980 lumens, the light got warm instantly.



I noticed a few imperfections on the anodizing. Near the cooling fins on one side only, there are a few lighter coloured areas. On the tailcap there are a few lines that look silvery. There is also some light bleeding through the button on the higher settings. Not concerned about either of these things but I thought I should mention them. The clip isn’t as bad as I initially made it out to be, I like the low profile of it, but I just wish they made it deep carry.



Overall though, I keep getting more and more excited about this light.



Tachead: I changed the font colour – I believe when I initially CTRL+C,V’d my post from MS Word to CPF, the editor tried to retain the font colour as black, which would then supersede any theme’s font colour. I pasted the post as plain text, and it should be white if your theme has a black background.



NPL: I will be doing some throw and brightness comparisons with my H53c and BLF A6.. it wasn’t too dark last night and I went to bed early (out of my girlfriend’s request, she knows I would have been up all night with my new friend!)



I am planning on comparing the H600Fc’s 296, 63, 25.7 with the H53c’s 285, 56, 26 levels for throw when I have some time. It’s very cold out where I live so I believe that will affect the values. I will also compare the frosted lens with a DC-fix and a latex glove diffuser on the H53c and provide some qualitative assessments.
Thanks for the additional info likethevegetable and the font looks normal now(you didn't have to change it just for me, I just wanted to point out that it might be hard to read on some people's systems). But, thanks man👍. I look forward to your further reports. I love my H600Fc MKIII.
 

lampeDépêche

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May 15, 2012
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1,187
Thanks for the review! I especially like the mode-spacing graph. I had not thought of it visually in those terms, but that's exactly what I want, too--roughly 4x increments between each level, to give something like double the perceived output.

I am still wedded to my Mk II H600w. Love that light. But its top H1 is only around 1k lumens. Now I'm trying to figure out whether the MkIVs are enough of a jump to justify purchasing a new one. Looking tempting!
 

markr6

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Jul 16, 2012
Messages
9,262
I am still wedded to my Mk II H600w. Love that light. But its top H1 is only around 1k lumens. Now I'm trying to figure out whether the MkIVs are enough of a jump to justify purchasing a new one. Looking tempting!

Same here. I bought mine in December 2013 and I think it's my most used light. As crazy as I am about upgrading to the latest and greatest, I can't seem to "upgrade" this one. The 4400K is great for backpacking at night; warm and comfortable without being too yellow. I rarely use the two highest modes anyway (on any headlamp format), so I guess I have no reason to upgrade.
 

autoxer

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Jun 19, 2017
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Thank you for your review!! I'm very interested, as I am thinking of buying these exact same two lights (H53c + H600Fc).

I will be looking forward to your throw and brightness comparisons.

I would also be very interested to know (when you've had some time with everything) if you still prefer the H53c, or if you think you'd prefer the H53Fc for all-around use? Depending on your observations, it could definitely influence my decision on which one to buy.
 

NPL

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Thank you for your review!! I'm very interested, as I am thinking of buying these exact same two lights (H53c + H600Fc).

I will be looking forward to your throw and brightness comparisons.

I would also be very interested to know (when you've had some time with everything) if you still prefer the H53c, or if you think you'd prefer the H53Fc for all-around use? Depending on your observations, it could definitely influence my decision on which one to buy.
I would without hesitation get an h53c over Fc. Simply put DC fix on the 53c and it's almost identical to fc. As it is only a AA light with 285 lumens, it's nice to have the option for extra throw. If you get an FC, you don't have the option of making it throw more.
 

markr6

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I would without hesitation get an h53c over Fc. Simply put DC fix on the 53c and it's almost identical to fc. As it is only a AA light with 285 lumens, it's nice to have the option for extra throw. If you get an FC, you don't have the option of making it throw more.

That's a good point. Every ZL headlamp I ever purchased was a "standard" beam. I buy them and immediately put d-c-fix over the lens. The H600w I just mentioned is over 4 years old and that film looks as good as day one. But if I did need to take it off, it wouldn't leave a bunch of sticky gunk either. It's basically an "F" version but with just a little more spot. Perfect.
 

autoxer

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Jun 19, 2017
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I would without hesitation get an h53c over Fc. Simply put DC fix on the 53c and it's almost identical to fc. As it is only a AA light with 285 lumens, it's nice to have the option for extra throw. If you get an FC, you don't have the option of making it throw more.
That's a good point. Every ZL headlamp I ever purchased was a "standard" beam. I buy them and immediately put d-c-fix over the lens. The H600w I just mentioned is over 4 years old and that film looks as good as day one. But if I did need to take it off, it wouldn't leave a bunch of sticky gunk either. It's basically an "F" version but with just a little more spot. Perfect.

Thanks both of you for your input! Those are some very good points and I appreciate them a lot. I like the idea of having the versatility with the setup that you describe.

I think I will stick with the current plan and get the H53c and use the DC fix.
 

likethevegetable

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I used DC-fix on my H53c for some time but was actually not a big fan of it, I found that it compromised the spill intensity too much and didn’t extend the breadth of the beam. When I want a super diffuse beam I’ll put a latex finger cot over the head and it works well - it is awesome for reading a book. What I really like about the F vs. spill/spot vs. spill/spot with DC-fix is that the F model has a very smooth intensity transition from the center to edges, and the extra 10° in width is very nice.

If I could only get one to use mainly as a headlamp, I would get frosted. If I were to get one to use mainly as a handheld, I’d get spot/spill. Having both options is nice though, and the spot/spill is very useful as a headlamp when doing precision up/close work where you only need to focus on one thing. I’m glad I have the spot/spill for the AA as the extra throw is nice considering it’s max output is way lower, and it will probably see more pocket time simply due to its size. I’m glad I have the frosted for the 18650 since I will be using it as a backpacking headlamp. (I’m probably subconsciously trying to convince myself that I made the right choice)

Someone on these forums once said that the frosted model is better for looking FOR something, while the spot/spill is better for looking AT something. I fully agree.
 

bentas

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http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?318832-Spark-ST5-190NW-Headlamp-(XM-L-1xAA-14500)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-and-more!
Thanks both of you for your input! Those are some very good points and I appreciate them a lot. I like the idea of having the versatility with the setup that you describe.

I think I will stick with the current plan and get the H53c and use the DC fix.


Hi there, I joined CPF many years ago, but this is the first time for me to post I think? I can usually find all I need by reading through the forums... but this time I'm not sure.

Also not sure if I should have started a new thread or not?

Anyway... just recently my Spark ST5 190NW (see link above) was stolen! Ahh! I was very happy with this headlamp and despite it being 7 years old I felt no need to upgrade. Amazingly you can still buy them but no doubt technology has advanced enormously since then! (it is currently available with XM-L2)


Seems the Zebralight H53c with a DC fix (what does that mean?) would be the modern equivalent but there may be even newer tech available now?

Features I liked about the Spark:

1. could use any battery type - though I mostly used 14500 (also reverse polarity protected)
2. Neutral white tint - for more natural colours hiking
3. memory mode
4. very bright - the 190 was with NiMH - way more powerful with 14500 up to 300Lm more
5. double click to super mode from any mode and back again
6 tough and water resistant IPX 8.
7. T body design... I actually like this, easy to access button and puts light source out so it doesn't shine on my nose or beanie as much.
8. Floody with wide hotspot done with frosted lens, easily unscrewable for a spotlight.

Thanks all, really looking forward to your replies. Ben
 

likethevegetable

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Hey bentas,

Zebralights are top notch, first-rate engineering and manufacturing.

DC-fix is used on windows in homes for privacy, but it makes a good diffuser: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007B9PNOQ/

1. The new ZLs DO NOT support 14500
2. H53c or H53w would be a fine choice
3. No memory, but ZL UI is so good you'll be glad there isn't memory mode
4. H53c max is 285 lm, H53w is 330 lm
5. Unfortunately no instant access to turbo
6. They're built to last and waterpood
8. If you want the option of a more focused beam, avoid the frosted models. BUT the frosted can still throw decently. You can achieve a more diffuse beam with the DC-fix, but once you remove it it's kinda done and you need a new one to put on. (like a screen protector)
 

NPL

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Messages
355
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http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?318832-Spark-ST5-190NW-Headlamp-(XM-L-1xAA-14500)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-and-more!



Hi there, I joined CPF many years ago, but this is the first time for me to post I think? I can usually find all I need by reading through the forums... but this time I'm not sure.

Also not sure if I should have started a new thread or not?

Anyway... just recently my Spark ST5 190NW (see link above) was stolen! Ahh! I was very happy with this headlamp and despite it being 7 years old I felt no need to upgrade. Amazingly you can still buy them but no doubt technology has advanced enormously since then! (it is currently available with XM-L2)


Seems the Zebralight H53c with a DC fix (what does that mean?) would be the modern equivalent but there may be even newer tech available now?

Features I liked about the Spark:

1. could use any battery type - though I mostly used 14500 (also reverse polarity protected)
2. Neutral white tint - for more natural colours hiking
3. memory mode
4. very bright - the 190 was with NiMH - way more powerful with 14500 up to 300Lm more
5. double click to super mode from any mode and back again
6 tough and water resistant IPX 8.
7. T body design... I actually like this, easy to access button and puts light source out so it doesn't shine on my nose or beanie as much.
8. Floody with wide hotspot done with frosted lens, easily unscrewable for a spotlight.

Thanks all, really looking forward to your replies. Ben
Welcome. DC fix is a window film you can buy at Home Depot or other places online. There are different kinds so be sure to pick the most appropriate for your diffusion preference. The h53c does not support 14500, but it's designed around AA NIMH and puts out a really decent 285 lumens on high. They also have the h53w which will not render colors as well, and will be a little brighter with a more neutral white tint.
 
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