Zebralight H600Fc Mk IV - First Impressions

[likethevegetable]

I kept running mine and it seems that the H1 was only cutting off sometimes between 2 and 1 flashes, then once the cell reached 1 flash, measured at 3.2 V, it would cut out each time. I think putting a lot more effort into cleaning the contacts helped my cause quite a bit

 

[niraya]

CRI LEDs make things look "true"

only if you believe incandescent is "true". The reference point is what I see as somewhat problematic to take 100 CRI as being "true"
.

 

[markr6]

only if you believe incandescent is "true". The reference point is what I see as somewhat problematic to take 100 CRI as being "true"
.

It can be subjective...but 37 years of subjectivity for me. So I can only continue to trust what my eyes see.

 

[Tachead]

I kept running mine and it seems that the H1 was only cutting off sometimes between 2 and 1 flashes, then once the cell reached 1 flash, measured at 3.2 V, it would cut out each time. I think putting a lot more effort into cleaning the contacts helped my cause quite a bit

You should get some Deoxit Gold. It will help keep your contacts clean and the resistance as low as possible. I use the liquid form(G100) on all of my lights as soon as I get them as it works great. The older ones you might want to clean with some Deoxit D Series first before using the Gold. Imo every flashaholic should have a supply of Deoxit D&G series on hand.

 

[niraya]

It can be subjective...but 37 years of subjectivity for me. So I can only continue to trust what my eyes see.

Right, but see when?
Many illumination sources can be seen as most trustworthy and 100CRI.
Incandescent is not more true for me than f.e. noon sunshine. :thinking:

 

[NPL]

You should get some Deoxit Gold. It will help keep your contacts clean and the resistance as low as possible. I use the liquid form(G100) on all of my lights as soon as I get them as it works great. The older ones you might want to clean with some Deoxit D Series first before using the Gold. Imo every flashaholic should have a supply of Deoxit D&G series on hand.

Very interesting. Will def buy some of this. I wonder how this will affect the performance of H1 on the new xhp50 headlamps.

 

[Tachead]

Very interesting. Will def buy some of this. I wonder how this will affect the performance of H1 on the new xhp50 headlamps.

Well, it may or may not help with a brand new light but, more importantly it will maintain the highest level of performance possible and take contact resistance issues out of the equation. It also helps lubricate and lower wear over time. It's good stuff. Check out the product sheets on their site...

http://caig.com/technical-data/

 

[Lumencrazy]

By far the best light around, but the cheapest, most uncomfortable, poorly designed silicone holder on this planet. Leaves vertical indentations in your scull along with a headache if you wear it for an extended period of time. A real shame.

 

[Tachead]

By far the best light around, but the cheapest, most uncomfortable, poorly designed silicone holder on this planet. Leaves vertical indentations in your scull along with a headache if you wear it for an extended period of time. A real shame.

Use the top strap and loosen the headband portion. You have it way too tight. If the top strap is adjusted properly the headband just needs to be barely snug and its secure.

If it still bothers you then grab an Armytek plastic holder or the Olight H2R headband.

 

[markr6]

Right, but see when?
Many illumination sources can be seen as most trustworthy and 100CRI.
Incandescent is not more true for me than f.e. noon sunshine. :thinking:

I guess I'm just going along with the majority, which is a standard I'll willingly accept.

When I buy bulbs that are 90+ CRI, I like them. I always have. I don't ask the manufacturer questions like "is this moonlight" or "compared to sunlight at 3:12 PM".

 

[Alex64]

Hi, i buyed the H600fd XHP50.2 and only have Samsung 30Q batteries, you can confirm if it works well or if better buy Sanyo NCR18650GA? Thanks.

 

[likethevegetable]

Your 30Q batteries are probably a bit better for running H1 than NCR18650GA because it should have lower resistance at higher currents.

All other modes though, the NCR18650GA would give you better runtime. 3500 mAh vs 3000 mAh)

Both batteries are excellent either way.

 

[NPL]

Any second impressions with those that have already received their lights? Getting mine on Monday ....

 

[Nuppet]

My sample has the nicest tint of all my Zebralights, and I'm very pleased with it. A pleasant surprise is that it came with a pocket clip that is also available for order from the Zebralight home page.

A negative is that I think the tail cap with its long and thin spring (same as my SC63w) does not really handle the current at H1. I get better performance (longer time on high before step down) using the tail cap from my SC64c (shorter spring), and the H600Fc tail cap seems to become warmer at H1 than the one from my SC64c. I could use the SC64c tail camp on my head lamp but a vigorous shake will turn it off. Since I am a bit uncomfortable with the H1, I have programmed the G6 mode group to have 980 Lm as max.

 

[Alex64]

Your 30Q batteries are probably a bit better for running H1 than NCR18650GA because it should have lower resistance at higher currents.

All other modes though, the NCR18650GA would give you better runtime. 3500 mAh vs 3000 mAh)

Both batteries are excellent either way.

Thanks. Always use the 30Q for my flashlights, the have good price, good performance and good reliability.

My sample has the nicest tint of all my Zebralights, and I'm very pleased with it. A pleasant surprise is that it came with a pocket clip that is also available for order from the Zebralight home page.

A negative is that I think the tail cap with its long and thin spring (same as my SC63w) does not really handle the current at H1. I get better performance (longer time on high before step down) using the tail cap from my SC64c (shorter spring), and the H600Fc tail cap seems to become warmer at H1 than the one from my SC64c. I could use the SC64c tail camp on my head lamp but a vigorous shake will turn it off. Since I am a bit uncomfortable with the H1, I have programmed the G6 mode group to have 980 Lm as max.

Interesting. It's possible that the HF600Fc tailcap transmit more amperage and therefore more heat/stepdown faster than SC64 tailcap.

 

[likethevegetable]

I've already said a lot about mine, but I will just reinforce that I absolutely love the tint, I couldn't ask for anything nicer (although I've never owned a Nichia).

 

[NPL]

My sample has the nicest tint of all my Zebralights, and I'm very pleased with it. A pleasant surprise is that it came with a pocket clip that is also available for order from the Zebralight home page.

A negative is that I think the tail cap with its long and thin spring (same as my SC63w) does not really handle the current at H1. I get better performance (longer time on high before step down) using the tail cap from my SC64c (shorter spring), and the H600Fc tail cap seems to become warmer at H1 than the one from my SC64c. I could use the SC64c tail camp on my head lamp but a vigorous shake will turn it off. Since I am a bit uncomfortable with the H1, I have programmed the G6 mode group to have 980 Lm as max.

When I get mine, I will test H1 using an sc600w tail cap and see if it also makes a difference.

Overall, glad to see people are still happy with their purchase. The oscillating PID in high modes is still a concern of mine, but I'll reach my own conclusion once I get to spend some time with the light.

 

[likethevegetable]

When I get mine, I will test H1 using an sc600w tail cap and see if it also makes a difference.

Overall, glad to see people are still happy with their purchase. The oscillating PID in high modes is still a concern of mine, but I'll reach my own conclusion once I get to spend some time with the light.

Yeah there seems to be a few duds that people got, but myself and other uses have been running H1 just fine. Run'r hard before deciding to keep it!

I've determined that for my light using an NCR18650GA, about 3.6-3.5V (50%) is the voltage before H1 starts to trip after a few seconds of being on (no oscillations though).

I programmed G6 & G7 the same except G7 replaces 1568 lm with 980 lm.

 

[AEDe]

Problems with H1 take place because of hi resistance of spring. It is hearing up and increase resistance.
You can simply check it. Turn on H1 and after 30-40sec take off tailcap -fast- and touch middle part of spring. Be careful. I can not measured temperature but it extremely hot.

Another simple test of H1. Use full charged battery Turn on H1 and put it underwater (It cool whole light except spring) and measure time until stepdown.
(I bet it will be about 10min)

 

[evgeniy]

I programmed G6 & G7 the same except G7 replaces 1568 lm with 980 lm.

... And problem completely solved.