Zebralight H600Fc Mk IV - First Impressions

evgeniy

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may be, PID in mk. IV version isn't optimal (tuned for max.output), but what we have in practice for H600Fc/Fd headlamps ?

1) max. mode for continuous use in any weather is 280lm (may be, except very hot nights), this mode has no PID.
And no problems with PID, no problems with springs.

2) In cold/moderate cold weather (as currently in my city, ~~0C) 580lm mode will work without PID and may be used for continuous use. (In hot weather yes, brightless will be decreased. )
No problems with PID, no problems with springs.

3) For short time in any weather we can use turbo mode, 980lm, for 1-2min. With PID after that, but in any case we 'll receive 1-2min of bright light. It's more than user usually need for "turbo" purposes from headlamp,
for many years I use turbo mode in my Zebra headlamps for few tens seconds, <1min.
No problems with PID, no problems with springs.

4) watercooled / hard cooled tests + continuous use of 1560lm mode, other "bdsm" use, etc.
Yes, in these modes we 'll have problems with PID and problems with springs.
 
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AEDe

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You told it everywhere. But what you want to say?
That mk4 have no issues? It have. ZL reply
“1) We are aware of the high current through the spring, and that’s the exactly why we switched to multiple pins in our flashlight products. High output headlamp models will move to the pin design in the future. Different spring materials or bypass won’t help much because some of our customers will still insist on using their low quality high resistance protected batteries.
2) We are aware of the ringing/oscillating in the Mk 4 18650 lights. We’ll try to fine tune the PID parameters (and possibly setting up a new calibration process) in future. “

Yes those issues usually have small effect on users.
But it must be fixed, isn't it?
 

eh4

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Meanwhile, the H600Fw is still available on sale for 59$, rock solid light, daily driver... kind of a Honda Civic sort of light.
 

NPL

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OK, so after a fair bit of waiting, and posting on this thread, I have finally received my H600Fc MK4 and wanted to provide my initial impressions after 3 days with the light.

I will skim through the usual and spend more time reporting the quirks.

Construction:
Construction is fantastic, as with all my other Zebralights, and it continues to make every other light I have owned or handled feel cheap.

Battery compartment:
The Battery compartment is quite slim to the point where I cannot insert certain batteries.
My green protected NCR18650B fit no problem, and so do my unprotected NCR18650GA (red ones from Zebralight).
My Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA Protected 3500mAh batteries purchased from MTN Electronics DO NOT FIT. I was a little disappointed by this, but its no deal breaker by any means.

Tint:
The tint, which I consider one of the most important aspects of any light passes with flying colors on this model. The colour temp is warm, as expected. The tint feels clean and free of Green hues. A little orangy/yellow, but just a touch. Quite close to a Nichia 219C 4000K but a minor touch more yellow. The spot/spill is very even with no color variations or colour temp variations. Can't say for sure if this is attributed to the LED, as the frosted optic might be doing all the work blending inconsistencies in the beam.

Beam:
This is my first F model from Zebralight. I think it makes a fantastic all around headlamp, but my preference would have still been a traditional reflector with spot/spill. Unfortunately, Zebralight doesn't make one with 90+ CRI. Since high CRI and warm/neutral colour temps are prerequisites for any light, I was willing to take this compromise. Between 2-10 meters away, the beam is beautiful, with super smooth transition from spot to spill. No tunnel vision. My H53c is able to shine quite a bit further at the same lumen output, which is one of the reasons why I like spot/spill better. Although they aren't more efficient, you tend to use them at lower outputs.

Output:
The output of this light is VERY impressive, especially at the H1 (1500+ lumens) setting. This setting is really just a temporary turbo and of little use to me, as the light overheats VERY quickly as others have mentioned already. Regardless of how long it lasts, seeing things with 1500 lumens at 4000K and 90 CRI is just amazing!! I just don't understand anybody who continues to buy 70 CRI lights, be it a thrower or flooder, but that's just me. I always favour quality over quantity, and in my metaphor, would rather eat a small cup of delicious Ben and Jerry's icecream instead of a large tub of knock off house brand cheap ice cream. This Headlamp delivers both quality of light, and heaps of quantity of lumens. Really can't complain.

Moonlight:
Still very good moonlight, but not as dim as my H53C.

PID:
The PID of this headlamp matches reports from all other users. Under the ceilingbounce app, you can clearly see the oscillations as the light increases and decreases in output to try and chase the optimal temperature. My SC600w MK3 HI is seamless in comparison, drawing a really smooth line with very minor "steps".
App aside, in H1(1500+) and H2(900+ lumens), the oscillations are VISIBLE to my eyes, but not in any detrimental way.
I am not of fan of these visible oscillations, and feel like Zebralight cut some corners and released the MK4 lights too soon. As it was the first time I pre-ordered something, I expected the same standards as my MK2 and MK3 lights, so this caught me a little by surprise.
The reality is, that in a scenario where the PID needs to kick in, the light will have to step down anyways, so whether it does this in a pretty or non noticeable fashion is not a deal breaker. When I will be using the light, I already know what the ambient temp is, or speed of my activity, and will set the light to a realistic output that I know it can sustain. IE, if its cold and I am skiing, will put it at 900 lumens. If its warm outside, will stick to 300-500 lumens max. If I need to see as far as possible or make my friends say wow, I'll put it at 1500 lumens for a minute or two.
When running on H1 or H2 for several minutes, I noticed that when I touched the head, the PID would adjust quickly and increase in output. The PID works, but the calibration to achieve a more linear transition is a fail.

Summary:
The light is def a keeper. The H1 and H2 modes and poorly implemented PID were disappointing, but reality is that in any extended use (in most situations), even a MK3 light will eventually step down to the 300-500 lumen setting at the same rate. This is where the H600fc MK4 shines best :) Beautiful tint, hopefully better runtimes at medium output settings compared to MK3 lights.

PROS:
-Amazing Zebralight build quality
-Amazing even Tint
-Amazing Output
-Great Color Rendering, at par with my H53c
-Programmable (my setup: G5, G6 with H1 set at 900 lm, G7 with H1 set at 500 lm)
-Moonlight mode

CONS:
-very poorly implemented PID compared to MK3 generation lights
-Tight battery compartment won't accept all 18650 batteries
-Unrealistic H1 setting compared to MK3 lights. *would have preferred lower output with better PID if it was an option.
-Moonlight not as dim as some other models.
 

scs

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Regarding the spring...the Emisar D4 has a spring in its tailcap, and it draws many amps, more than ZLs do if I'm not mistaken, without problems. Why does ZL make it sound like no single spring is a viable alternative to the POGO pins?
 

AEDe

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I have asked ZL , about CU Be springs too. The answer is above. But it looks like not answer at all.
 

Alex64

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Regarding the spring...the Emisar D4 has a spring in its tailcap, and it draws many amps, more than ZLs do if I'm not mistaken, without problems
Yes, and the same with the Armytek Wizard XHP50 with the same led and more lumens.
 

evgeniy

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This level of thermal regulation isn't new :
as described in ""measurements of turbo mode in SC600w mkIV, H600FD mk IV, H600w mk III" ,

H600w mk III has even more oscillations, than mk IV,
but ... for 1.5-2 years of practical use H600 mark III series nobody wrote about for "wrong thermal regulation".

graphs :
SC600w mkIV,
attachment.php


H600FD mk IV,
attachment.php


H600w mk III
attachment.php
 

NPL

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Very interesting. Funny how some mk3 are great like the sc600w mk3 Hi, and others as shown above are not.

Did a beam comparison of my triple xp-g3 4000k 90cri and my new H600fc, and wow, huge difference. The XP-G3 was super yellow in comparison. The FC was significantly more neutral with a Rosy tint to it.
 

bentas

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Woohoo, my H600Fc has arrived, what a step up in tech from my Spark ST5!!

Amazing output (I know the battery is also much bigger, but headlamp not much heavier overall to my old ST5), Amazing tint, 'Wow Dad it's like sunlight', (my 5 year old daughter 🙂). My first headlamp with moonlight too, it's great!! Using LGDBMJ11865 battery, working well so far.
Glad I went with this, still would like a 14500 headlamp though, do you think Zebralight will stay with the NiMH AA's or go back to 14500 compatible?
 
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LessDark

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I've had mine for a few days and have to say I like everything about it except the tint!
It is quite green/yellow, really annoys me when I compare it to my H600Fc III which has a perfect warm tint...
 

leezg

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Just received my H600fc IV today. This is my first "real" flashlight.
First impression was a pleasant surprise how small it is, was expecting a bigger piece. The aa models are probably too small, or perfect for edc.
Tested it a bit tonight, very bright. I am very happy with my Zebralight.
Headband was on my head shortly, but I can not see why people say its uncomfortable.
I just have to measure tommorow which size magnet will fit under the spring , then order one and super glue it in.
 

hrbngr

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Hello,

I am looking at purchasing a H600Fc Mk IV direct from ZebraLight. Has any one bought one of these more recently to determine if the PID issue on the H1/H2 settings to still be a problem? Also, is there a source for the Armytek headband/holder that everyone is recommending in this thread?

Currently own a H602W purchased in 2015.
 

likethevegetable

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Hello,

I am looking at purchasing a H600Fc Mk IV direct from ZebraLight. Has any one bought one of these more recently to determine if the PID issue on the H1/H2 settings to still be a problem? Also, is there a source for the Armytek headband/holder that everyone is recommending in this thread?

Currently own a H602W purchased in 2015.

I received (likely) one of the first productions of the H600Fc IV with no issues; unfortunately I can’t answer your first question.

https://ru.nkon.nl/ is a great supplier for flashlights and accessories. I got an AT holder and pocket clip (required a grinder and pliers to make it fit) from them without issues. I’ve also been told that the type B pocket clip here works great too: https://www.nitecorestore.com/Pocket-Clip-for-Nitecore-P12-Flashlight-p/acc-clip-nitecore.htm
 

Lumencrazy

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Mar 10, 2015
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Unfortunately they still make the cheapest, most uncomfortable silicone holder for the headband. The worst in the industry.
 

markr6

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Jul 16, 2012
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Unfortunately they still make the cheapest, most uncomfortable silicone holder for the headband. The worst in the industry.

I like it after routing the strap thru the part that holds the lamp as well. Nice and smooth against my head with no irregular or hotspots. After extensive use with one of mine while backpacking it still looks and functions like new after 5 years now.
 
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