Zebralight SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 90+CRI

oeL said:
. . .

The SC700d is way too floody for me, the XPH35 HI with SC700 head would allow an even better throw than the SC600, still having a smooth beam and sufficient spill for an universal light. In addition, the low resistance and good heat dissipation of the SC700 paired with the more powerful battery with a higher capacity would allow Zebralight to run the XPH35 HI with a bit more current than in the SC600 -> it would be brighter in terms of lumens.

Please put me on your list, or what about a vote here, or anything else...
Click to expand...

Yes! I agree completely. Add me to any list for a Zebralight HI flashlight with a 21700 battery.
 
I don't think I'd have any interest in _buying_ an XHP35 HI version, but I'd love to see what the beam would look like. Especially the character of the spill (we know the spot would be tighter).

I like a floody light, but the spill brightness of the SC700 is something else. The light at my feet is blinding me from what's further away unless I hold it over my head.
A regular XHP35, or most likely just an XHP50, would probably do it for me.

Really, though, what might actually part me from my dollars would be a SC700fc. In the meantime, I have a growing collection of Emisar and Lumintop 3000K triples, half with Anduril firmware for amusement.

The main use I've come to for the SC700d? Honestly, indoor photography with ceiling or wall bounce. The sheer amount of light, and the ability to run at high levels for longer than anything else I have, is wonderful.
 
"I like a floody light, but the spill brightness of the SC700 is something else. The light at my feet is blinding me from what's further away unless I hold it over my head."

I ended up buying a GT micro just because of this. The SC700 isn't usable by me above about 600 lumens due to the spill.

I was always a firefly, moonlight, 10 lumens kind of guy, until I used my SC700. Now even running a 14500 in my SC52 is laughably dim... 😀

 
Does anyone have a list of the measured runtimes for the SC700d in all its various levels?

(Selfbuilt....this seems like a job you'd like....)

I'm using a Samsung 50E 5000 mAh 21700.
 
Anyone know if the SC700 series will fit in a TwoFish Lockblock? Wanting to use one on my MTB.

Also, anyone had experience yet using one on an MTB? It could be either handlebar or helmet mounted. I also have a Light & Motion Taz 1200 which I can use one either bar or helmet too.

In particular, I can't decide if I will go an SC700Fd or a d. I guess I could always get a d an put scotch tape on it...
 
Secateurs said:
Anyone know if the SC700 series will fit in a TwoFish Lockblock? Wanting to use one on my MTB.

Also, anyone had experience yet using one on an MTB? It could be either handlebar or helmet mounted. I also have a Light & Motion Taz 1200 which I can use one either bar or helmet too.

In particular, I can't decide if I will go an SC700Fd or a d. I guess I could always get a d an put scotch tape on it...
Click to expand...

ZebraLight SC700d available for preorder ($119USD) She looks chunky: Head Diameter: 1.5 inch (38.1 mm) Body Diameter: 1.1 inch (28 mm)

SO. the twoFish thing has a 28mm and 18mm cradle? Does the 18 go on the bars? if so, I bet the 28mm will take the light body...
If the 28mm is needed for the bar, I foresee a problem
 
justanotherguy said:
ZebraLight SC700d available for preorder ($119USD) She looks chunky: Head Diameter: 1.5 inch (38.1 mm) Body Diameter: 1.1 inch (28 mm)

SO. the twoFish thing has a 28mm and 18mm cradle? Does the 18 go on the bars? if so, I bet the 28mm will take the light body...
If the 28mm is needed for the bar, I foresee a problem
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for that. Are the cradles removable? If i get a pack of 2 of the TwoFish Lockblocks would I be able to take the 28mm cradle out of one and fit it to the other so it has two 28mm cradles?
 
GeoBruin said:
Probably won't notice that on the trail though huh?
Click to expand...
Quite right, but i always like to have versatile, multi-purpose lights. One reason for high cri is so i can use it for photography illumination

Sent from my BV9600Pro using Tapatalk
 
Secateurs said:
Ok, thanks for that. Are the cradles removable? If i get a pack of 2 of the TwoFish Lockblocks would I be able to take the 28mm cradle out of one and fit it to the other so it has two 28mm cradles?
Click to expand...

Looking at it, that actually may be possible... Never had a.lockblock
 
I agree you probably don't want the frosted lens. For a bike light, you want a little bit of throw so you can see far enough ahead you don't hit a rock or something on the road or path.

I use a SC600w IV Plus, which has a similar beam profile to the SC700d. Great bike light! Lots of flood, but also some throw in the center.

I just use one of those cheap bike light holders you can find on sites like Banggood. (I'm pretty sure links aren't allowed here, but they're easy to find). They're pretty adjustable, if you get one with rubber padding that goes around the light. Trim to fit. Should fit the SC700d. They easily click on and off the bike, and hold the position firmly. As a backup, I use a landyard on my Zebralight, attached to my bike, just in case the cheap holder ever fell off. It never has, and I've biked thousands of kilometers with it at night.

Don't bother getting a holder that uses velcro. I've tried them, and they're all crap. I constantly needed to adjust the position while riding. PITA.
 
Derek Dean said:
For me, color temperature and tint are equally important. I found both lights, the SC600w MkIV+ and the SC700d, to have equally ugly green/cyanish tints when I received them, so the difference between the color temperature and CRI in those lights really didn't come into play at that point.

Of course, I've come to expect this with most LED lights and it doesn't bother me one whit because I learned a long time ago how easy it is to adjust the color of the light with filters, and once filtered, I've found both lights quite pleasing.

However, once filtered, to my eyes, the SC700d, with it's higher CRI, definitely renders colors more accurately, which I find VERY pleasing. I was expecting this, and it's one of the reasons I decided to order this light (along with the increased output, 21700 battery, and extremely low moonlight level).

Would I have preferred the SC700d with a color temperature of 4500k or 4000k? Not necessarily. At this point I'm more interested in having an LED with a High CRI rating, then I'll simply filter it to get the color temperature and tint the way I want it.

I'm super pleased with the SC700d. It's everything I had hoped it would be.

Once thing I'd like to stress, however, is that the increase in size and weight really are noticeable. The head on this thing is BIG. Just something to consider if you found the SC600 series daunting for pocket carry. Personally, I never had any issues with the SC600 for pocket carry, and the SC700d won't bother me either, but the increased size of the SC700d might put some folks off.

The great thing is that the SC600 series offers some great lights that come very close to matching the level of output from the SC700d, but in a much more modest and pocket friendly size.
Click to expand...


Hi Derek, I signed-up just to reply to your great post - as I'm considering purchasing the sc700d. I had to return my first ZL light - a h600d, because I couldn't handle the greenish vibe from the XHP50.2 5000k. Had I known about the filters however, I would've probably kept it.
So, to my question: how do I go about applying these filters you speak of?

Thank You
 
Let it shine said:
Hi Derek, I signed-up just to reply to your great post - as I'm considering purchasing the sc700d. I had to return my first ZL light - a h600d, because I couldn't handle the greenish vibe from the XHP50.2 5000k. Had I known about the filters however, I would've probably kept it.
So, to my question: how do I go about applying these filters you speak of?

Thank You
Click to expand...


I apply the filters using a tiny bit of double sided scotch tape placed in the center and attaching to the outside of the glass. It works great, doesn't mess up the beam, and I've never had an issue with losing a filter or having it damaged, and I really do use my lights a LOT. I LOVE filters, as they let me customize the tint of my light to my own personal preference. They are easily worth the small amount of effort required to cut them to size and then attach them. Have fun!
 
Derek Dean said:
I apply the filters using a tiny bit of double sided scotch tape placed in the center and attaching to the outside of the glass. It works great, doesn't mess up the beam, and I've never had an issue with losing a filter or having it damaged, and I really do use my lights a LOT. I LOVE filters, as they let me customize the tint of my light to my own personal preference. They are easily worth the small amount of effort required to cut them to size and then attach them. Have fun!
Click to expand...

I'm surprised the scotch tape doesn't melt or burn, and cause problems with the glass lens. Do you not use your light hot, or is that tape heat-resistant?
 
skid00skid00 said:
"I like a floody light, but the spill brightness of the SC700 is something else. The light at my feet is blinding me from what's further away unless I hold it over my head."

I ended up buying a GT micro just because of this. The SC700 isn't usable by me above about 600 lumens due to the spill.

I was always a firefly, moonlight, 10 lumens kind of guy, until I used my SC700. Now even running a 14500 in my SC52 is laughably dim... 😀
Click to expand...

Agreed! I've EDC'd SC600's since 2011, but I reach for my Olight Warrier X for night work because ZL SC's blind me, almost as much as a bare lightbulb would! And, a fogged 700d would be even worse! ZebraLight; I don't need a 3000LM light bulb, make a thrower, 60° spill? :poke:
 
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