Exactly. Am not talking about the host am talking about the LED!!!
Zebralight SC700d 21700 XHP70.2 90+CRI
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Exactly. Am not talking about the host am talking about the LED!!!
roger-roger
Enlightened
I'm over the whole CRI thing already. Give me a puke yellow/green free tint 5000k and up, and I'll jump on it.
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes, IMO, high CRI is overrated for most uses. A decent 75 or 80 CRI is enough for 99% of tasks. 90+ CRI is really only needed if you're doing something that requires very accurate color identification. In those cases, you're probably not using a flashlight anyway, and are using a proper lamp setup or natural light.
I think high CRI looks very nice (colors pop more), but high output and efficiency is usually much more important, especially outdoors.
markr6
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2012
- Messages
- 9,258
I'm totally with you. My SC64w (4500K, no yellow/green, 80CRI) is much nicer than the D4S I have with Nichia 219C (5000K, very slight green, 90CRI). The ONLY time I can notice is when I compare the light on something like a wooden door or piece of furniture - the 90 CRI keeps the "reddish" look of the wood, where the 80 CRI gives more of a drab yellow/green appearance. But you really have to put in effort to compare, and I just don't care that much.
Then keep your fingers crossed that the sales dept people manage to convince the engineer team to move the plans for the next UI generation forward. I shot them an email last week with regards to the fact that slow strobe will certainly be unuseful (and in fact outright dangerous) at ~3000 lm, and this is what I received in response earlier today:
"We have developed a programable UI for the strobe and beacons, meant to be released in the Mk V generations. I'll talk to our management to see if it's possible to release the UI a bit earlier, in the SC700."
This would be very good, because as it is I'm wary of using the slow strobe on my mk. II L2 as a bike flashing flight even in broad daylight, and what about something three times as bright? I don't want to have things thrown at me, let alone cause a traffic accident because a driver was dazzled. 200–300lm is the safe bike flash range for daytime and early twilight; anything higher is counterproductive at best. Being able to set it up somewhere in that range would be perfect.
I also asked a couple more questions, particularly about what battery they'd recommend, and it seems they have an eye on the 4000mAh Samsung 40T for (quoting) the "use in a cold and windy environment" (this isn't final, though), implying it's not as susceptible to thermal voltage sag as the 48T. But since I neither bike nor hike at subzero temps, I probably won't see any benefits for my typical usage scenarios.
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've used the SC600w mkIV Plus on my bike all summer. Never had a problem with wind. In fact, I love the wind, because it allows me to use it at 2300 lumens without ramping down (if it's also a cool night).
I have, however, had a problem with my SC600w mkIV HI in the winter, also when it's a bit breezy. H1 will sometimes fail to turn on the light for more than a couple of seconds. Only a problem with H1, only when the light hasn't been used in awhile, and only when it's really cold. I've never been able to reproduce the issue with indoor freezer tests. Tried it with GA cell, 30Q, and VTC6. Not sure if it's the battery, or the electronics, but it doesn't like extreme cold.
I'll have to try the 600w Plus this winter, to see if it also has an issue in the cold.
I'm not at all surprised the Sanyo GA cell might have a problem in the cold. I am surprised the 30Q and VTC6 has a problem, though.
Zebralight's mentioning of a battery for "use in a cold and windy environment" makes me think they are well aware of this issue. I guess that's good?
I have, however, had a problem with my SC600w mkIV HI in the winter, also when it's a bit breezy. H1 will sometimes fail to turn on the light for more than a couple of seconds. Only a problem with H1, only when the light hasn't been used in awhile, and only when it's really cold. I've never been able to reproduce the issue with indoor freezer tests. Tried it with GA cell, 30Q, and VTC6. Not sure if it's the battery, or the electronics, but it doesn't like extreme cold.
I'll have to try the 600w Plus this winter, to see if it also has an issue in the cold.
I'm not at all surprised the Sanyo GA cell might have a problem in the cold. I am surprised the 30Q and VTC6 has a problem, though.
Zebralight's mentioning of a battery for "use in a cold and windy environment" makes me think they are well aware of this issue. I guess that's good?
Interesting. The mk. IV lights using the 6V XHP series LEDs and the SC700 both use a boost driver unlike the previous versions' buck-only which doesn't have this problem (at least I haven't heard of it). There could be a (safety-related?) difference in their behavior under conditions that make the cell's voltage sag significantly, i.e. being cold and not fully charged. If you do the freezer test again, make sure the battery is only charged to like 40–50%.
Then again if the Plus doesn't have this problem, then it might just be an issue with the electronics of the HI (or just your particular light). Hard to say. Thankfully the light is being released in October, so I'll be on the look-out for other reports of H1 "cold starts".
Then again if the Plus doesn't have this problem, then it might just be an issue with the electronics of the HI (or just your particular light). Hard to say. Thankfully the light is being released in October, so I'll be on the look-out for other reports of H1 "cold starts".
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes, the problem only begins to occur on H1 when the battery is down below about 3.8v (resting). And cold and breezy, in winter. I haven't seen the problem since March. It will go away in the cold if I run the light for a bit on H2, to warm it up.
I think yours must have been a different issue than mine. Or perhaps mine is a borderline case that only shows up in the cold.
But based on Zebra's comments about batteries that are for the cold and wind, I think it's a wider problem than just my light.
likethevegetable
Enlightened
Me too! Despite all of the claims of the egregious tint shift of the XHP70.2 (I would use DC-fix regardless), I'm considering this for my first SC series light. I think it would make for amazing bike light.
I'm normally a die hard right-angle fan, but I don't think I'll ever buy a 2170 headlamp.
The one and four blank rows under the SC and H headers also has me on my toes.
justanotherguy
Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 522
Anyone get theirs yet?
/S
Seriously, I did email and am hoping for a response
/S
Seriously, I did email and am hoping for a response
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yeah, but they're all old models; at least a couple of years old. IMO, if you're getting a new Zebralight, you should probably buy the newer models (SC64, SC600 MkIV, etc), because they have the new programmable UI. It solves a lot of the complaints people had about the older UI, where they wanted single-click for moonlight, etc. Plus, the newer models are generally brighter and more efficient.
Maybe it's just me, but if I'm going to spend $60 on a flashlight, I may as well spend another $20 and get the latest version with what I want on it, instead of something 2-3 years old.
I want them to stick that XHP70.2 in a smaller SC600 form factor with an 18650 cell.
Agree with everything here and definitely would like to see it in an 18650 version.
justanotherguy
Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 522
Price is up,, looks like more info...
$119
$119
Derek Dean
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes, I was happy to see that Zebralight is going back to .01 lumens for their lowest output level of this newest potential high output light. A definite plus for those of us that enjoy having a light that not only puts out a lot of light when needed, but is also capable of delivering only a tiny bit when needed, as well. I'll be interested to see this light.
