Power requirements RWOK vs UX1K

jwl

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I know the Vf should be in the same range with both these LED's, but would the UX1K require more milliamps to power than the RWOK?
Looks to me like you would drive both with the same millamps and with the same Vf. Is this correct or am I missing something here?
Thanks
 

paulr

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The flux bin indicates how bright the led is at its rated current level. Yes, a UX1K Lux3 is brighter than an RWOK Lux3 at the same voltage and current. That's why UX1K's are scarce and sought after. But if the RWOK is a Lux1, the comparison doesn't hold. Lux3's are rated at 900 mA or something like that, and Lux1's at 350 mA.
 

cratz2

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Yeah, the Lux I RW0K is spec'ed to run at 350ma while the Lux III UX1K is spec'ed to run at 700ma for full brightness. If you run them direct on 3 NiMH cells, the Lux III will be quite a bit brighter but if you have a light with a 350ma regulator or, say 3 alkaline cells and a fixed resistor (such as several Dorcy lights) and just replace the Lux I with the Lux III, the difference will be noticable, but definately not stunning.

It might be easier for us to give you more information if you tell us exactly what your plans or goals are.
 

jwl

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Cratz2 - My plan is to mod one or both of my 3D maglites with a hotlips heatsink and a Lux III. BUT I don't want to give up anymore runtime than I absolutely have to. If a UX1K is going to have the same power drain on the batteries as the RWOK I would rather spend the money on the brighter LED.
What would be a good regulator to run a Lux III with 3D cells and at max rated milliamps?
 

paulr

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You can't really tell from first principles whether a UX1K running at 350 mA will be brighter than an RW0K at the same current. McGizmo did some measurements and I don't remember the conclusion but I think they were in the same ballpark.
 

cratz2

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Ahh... well... just to throw out there. You know you that assuming you live in the US, you can go to Sears and buy one of their little stainless steel 3xAAA lights which comes with a PR-base Lux I bulb and pop it in your Maglite. It is lightly resistored.

I'm personally not a big fan of PR-base Lux III bulbs because of heat issues and potentially inadequate heatsinking, but the Lux Is don't really run very hot.

I think the lights are about $20 each... That would be FAR cheaper and easier than doing an actual mod... again, I would totally recommend going the long route for a Lux III build, but not so much for the Lux I build.
 

IsaacHayes

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If you ran both at the same current, meaning you'd need a constant current to regulate the current, then UX1K would win in brightness and runtime. Not only is it higher flux (you'd need a S flux 1Watt to compete) but the Vf to run at say, 350ma, would be lower than the 1W. Even though they are both K Vf, the LuxIII is rated at pulling double the current at the same voltage as the 1watt.
 

wtraymond

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I typically use a K bin Lux III for 3D direct drive mods like the 3D Mag. The runtime is on the order of days not hours. It usually draws about 1000ma for the first few hours and levels off at 700-800 after that. It will gradually draw fewer amps and run for a very, very long time, but you will not notice the diminishing light very much. The brightness difference between 500ma and 1000ma is not very noticeable to your eye. You may notice the throw is less at 500ma, but the brightness is hardly noticeable.

Buy a TWOK or U**K and a hotlips or o-sink for your Maglite conversion. Personally I'd recommend the o-sink/UCL combo from FlashlightLens.com and a T binned emitter from PhotonFanatic. The U-bins I've purchased for a premium have been only slightly brighter than the average T-bin. In fact, I have a few T-bins that noticeably outshine my three U-bins and the color of the UX1* is not at good as the TWO*.

Another consideration to mention is the batteries. If your still concerned about runtime despite the potential week-long runtime of the LED conversion, be sure to checkout SilverFox's battery comparison tests in the 'Flashlight Electronics-Batteries Included' thread. You may get 20% or more runtime by using a different brand battery and sometimes save money doing so as well.
 

jwl

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I read several articles about running 3D lights with resistors but what about regulators?

Anybody got any suggestions about a regulator or is it just not worth the extra price when running on D-cells?
 

IsaacHayes

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for 3D cells and a regulator, a Wizzard would be a good choice, It will keep the LED from beign overdriven from fresh new cells, and then after the cells drop lower it will boost the voltage so the LED stays bright at the same level until the batteries are dead. So it keeps it at a constant regulated current. The LED stays happy (no overdrive at first on fresh cells) and it stays even brightness.

A wizzard 700-1000ma would be a good choice for a LuxIII and 3D setup.

It's worth the price if you want the same brigthness the whole way through the batteries (it will suddenly dim down to a dimmer level letting you know it's out of regulation, and still give you useable light. it won't just shut off though when the batteies are used up.). It's aslo worth it if you don't want to stress the LED when you put in fresh batteries as the voltage can be as high as 1.6volts per cell fresh, and drive an led at 1.6-1.7 amps fresh...

With a good expensive high performance emitter, (UX1K) I'd go the regulator route. Then your light would be top of the line all around.

If cost is an issue, a cheaper LED and resistor would be the route to go.
 

jwl

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Do I have to use a regulator if I use 11,000mAh batteries or can I get away with just a resistor?

IsaacHayes - I can't find the Wizzard regulator on the Sandwich Shoppe, got a link?
 

IsaacHayes

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If you use NiMH batteries with a K vf luxeon (like the UX1K) then it should be fine Direct Drive and not overdrive it, but yet drive it very close to spec 700-100ma. Alkalines would be best with a regulator.

So, alkalines, you can use this regulator (direct link to wizzard)
Or NiMH and no resistor/regulator with a K vf luxeon and it will be fine.
 

jwl

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Sweet! :rock:

Thanks for the link, I just didn't read close :ohgeez: enough when I saw it earlier.

:thanks:
 

cratz2

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Just to throw out there... the only light I have with a Wiz2 board, when it falls out of regulation, it's starts a slow strobe flash with no dimmer level. But it also uses 2 18650 cells so maybe that's an effect of using LiONs.

If used with alkalines, will the Wiz2 indeed drop down to a dimmer level for a period rather than just start flashing?
 
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