Longbow Micra - switch repair or replace?

I have a Longbow Micra with the clickie tailcap. It's been working fine for the last year but recently the switch has stopped working (won't always switch on/off even with new batteries). If I understand correctly, the switch is a Kroll type clickie. How hard is it to replace? If not, where can I find the twist style tailcap to replace it?

I haven't really looked at my Micra switch very much. I had some problems a while back that I solved ( I have a McCapsule and the solder blob was bad). The twisty switch is nice, it cuts about .4 inches off of the light, but it takes a it of torque to use. I Suggest posting in the Buy forums under BST.

Bugout gear sells them, but it looks like they are out of stock ATM, you might send them an email.
http://store.bugoutgearusa.com/loac.html

I purchesed my twisty from Bulldog Enterprises, which right now seems to have lost their domain.

Anyway Good luck!

No problem to replace the switch, just get a kroll from somewhere and exchange it. The Sandwhich shop and flashlightlens.com used to carry them.
You could even try to repair the one you have. The Kroll's construction is easy.

Chrisse

chrisse242 said:

No problem to replace the switch, just get a kroll from somewhere and exchange it. The Sandwhich shop and flashlightlens.com used to carry them.
You could even try to repair the one you have. The Kroll's construction is easy.

Chrisse

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Chrisse. I do happen to have a couple spare Kroll switchs, but how would I go about removing the switch so I can at least inspect it to see what the problem may be?

Thanks for this info, the switch in mine is kind of tough, I might try this..

You might try the diagrams. I believe you can just push the whole assembly out, and then unscrew the sleeve from it.
http://www.longbowgear.com/images/longbowmanual.pdf

I have two Micras with the Twisty switches installed, and a spare Clicky. I really do prefer the Twisty as it makes the light much smaller. One is my EDC and it's actually very very smooth and easy to twist on with a single hand. The other is barely used and requires more torque. The Twisty definitely benefits from good lube (I used Radio Shack Lube Gel with Teflon).

what Skyline said, unscrew the tail, push out the assembly und unscrew the plastic switch from the sleeve. You can now check the springs, if doesn't work at all, something probably doesn't make contact like it should.

Chrisse

I am having problems with my micra clicky... it is a POS. I tried to fix it for hours... but it just doesnt fix. It lights for momentary, but once you click it, it goes out.

-David

chrisse242: Thanks for the tips.. couldn't find my instructions, but I did manage to pop the Kroll switch out. Unfortunately I think it's DOA...

cheapo: You're right.. the Kroll clickie is a POS.. oh well.. time to look for another mini flashlight.

I believe the Longbow products have a warranty that can be of help??
Just send it back to them. Part of the reason why we paid so much for these flashlight is also because of the service right?

Anyway, just a small bit of warning: if you decide to get a new twistie, do watch out for the threading.... Longbow has released a different type of threading for their newer batch of flashlights which might not be compatible with their older ones.

mokona2 said:

chrisse242: Thanks for the tips.. couldn't find my instructions, but I did manage to pop the Kroll switch out. Unfortunately I think it's DOA...

cheapo: You're right.. the Kroll clickie is a POS.. oh well.. time to look for another mini flashlight.

Click to expand...

mini flashlight huh? Fenix or Amilite are my recommendations.

-David

I have a micra, and I find the Clickie to be quite easy to dissassemble and find the problem. Since the parts made by longbow only consist of the brass sleeve and the rubber boot, you can easily tell whether the problem is the kroll, or the sleeve. You cant blame LongBow for a crappy kroll. You can only blame them for choosing it as their switch for their lights. As for the kroll, you can buy one with a normal rubber boot for 5$ off the sandwich shoppe. Just pull off the rubber boot, and you have a kroll like the one that came out of your micra clickie.

I dont think we should have to pay for their mistake... IMHO.

-David

A working Kroll is about the best clicky I've ever seen. Given the number of kroll switches out there, and given the price, I don't think there are too many of them actually failing.
I always thought it was a clever move from longbow to use an existing switch that is easy to replace and even repair most of the times.
I'd never give up my micra with the kroll, I simply love it.

Mokona2: I still think it should be possible to repair your kroll.

Chrisse

chrisse242 said:

A working Kroll is about the best clicky I've ever seen. Given the number of kroll switches out there, and given the price, I don't think there are too many of them actually failing.
I always thought it was a clever move from longbow to use an existing switch that is easy to replace and even repair most of the times.
I'd never give up my micra with the kroll, I simply love it.

Mokona2: I still think it should be possible to repair your kroll.

Chrisse

Click to expand...

well...... my micra clicky has failed TWICE already... it is no good.

-David

Have to agree that the Kroll is pretty much garbage. I've had tons of issues with the Kroll in my Arc LSL. Took lots of adjustments to the coils before I could get it working reasonably reliably. Kroll distrust and preference for a smaller form factor leads me to use the Twisty.

I tend to think the Surefire Clicky on my L4 is the best I've ever seen. Never ever an issue (knock on wood), and it's sooo smooth.

I agree, the z57 clicky is really nice.

-David

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions. I've had my Micra for more than a year, so I don't think it is still under warranty. I have pushed the Kroll switch out, but have not been able to determine where the problem may be (possibly the spring that contacts the brass sleeve? It seems to bind up when I thread the sleeve back on). I could just put my spare switch in and see if that works, but I may end up with a problem later on.

cheapo: finally caught up with the discussions regarding the Fenix L1P (been away from CPF for about 4-6 months). Patiently waiting for my package from 4seven to arrive. Not sure about the L2P, but would like to see how the Falcata series works out (looking for a 9V system to compliment my 9P and M3).

nice call on the L1p... it has more output and throw that the micra. I got my light to stay on after clicking it multiple times, and now I just use it as a twisty so that I dont have to keep clicking it.

-David

Update: should have thought of this sooner.. replace the battery (duh!). Since I hadn't used my Micra for some time, I didn't realize that the output was rather dim. Swapped out the Kroll switch and replaced the battery.. voila! Back in business, but will probably just stash it as a back-up light (along with a pair of Q-III and about half a dozen Surefires...)