Fenix L1P Switch Failure

The switch on my L1P has failed! The button does not retract any longer. Every now and then the button will pop back out, but the "off" function of the switch doesn't work. Fortunately, it failed in the "on" position so I can use the L1P in the "twisty" mode.

Use the spare one that came with it?

how often did you activate the switch...is it used frequently?

Along with the less than stellar performance of the Fenix converter the clicky tail cap is a known and repeated problem. Like Roy's Fenix, the tail cap on one of my lights is 'iffy' and the second one has quit. The Fenix company and its customers have a problem.

Not counting the batteries used for the runtime plots, the L1P is still on it's first battery.

ok it seems that the fenix has a problem, ok what is THE generic fix for the switch problems? what can you do about it?............does kroll make a switch that will fit the fenix..

Roy said:

The switch on my L1P has failed! The button does not retract any longer. Every now and then the button will pop back out, but the "off" function of the switch doesn't work. Fortunately, it failed in the "on" position so I can use the L1P in the "twisty" mode.

Click to expand...

I bought 4 Fenix's and one light had this problem. I screwed off the back and tightened the ring that holds the switch in. (On the inside) I screwed the ring tight. I had to turn my ring 4 turns to make it tight. I used a pick to do this. Now the switch works.

ernsanada said:

I bought 4 Fenix's and one light had this problem. I screwed off the back and tightened the ring that holds the switch in. (On the inside) I screwed the ring tight. I had to turn my ring 4 turns to make it tight. I used a pick to do this. Now the switch works.

Click to expand...

This is what I did also works great now.

I completly disasembled the switch assembly. The actual push button switch has failed. When you push the button in, it does not return to the out position....even if the ascual switch is out of the housing. If you full with it long enough the button might come back for a couple od cycles then stick again. I tried some silicon lube with no luck.

This does not seem to be an elictrical problem, but appears to be a mechanical problem.

My Fenix L1P switch is starting to act up too -- intermittent operation, sometimes turns on, other times not. I've tried tightening the switch hold-down ring, and it tightened, but didn't solve the problem. The ratchet mechanism seems to have a bad contact on certain positions.

I'm getting a little concerned about EDCing the L1P. My Nuwai QIII switch doesn't feel any more substantial, but has not failed yet. I may have to return to my trusty Surefire TW4 (E1e/KL4) or E1e/KL1 (4th gen) -- rock solid light with a rock solid switch.

alberto: have you checked to see if the soldered connection on the switch has broke? I'd try that first. I know some weren't soldered well or was weak.

Roy: hmm. looks like your switch is just plain bad.

I just started having problems with mine tonight and then I find this thread. Wow, what are the chances. I can get mine to act up, on occasion, by banging the switch end with my finger so I'm assuming something is a bit loose. I tried moving the ring on the inside but it seems tight. I couldn't move it either direction. I suppose I could try harder though. It is kind of a sickening feeling to turn it on and nothing happens. I took it apart and put it together 3 times before it came on and then it was very unsteady. After fiddling with it for a bit, I haven't got it to blink again. I'm sure I didn't do anything to fix it.

Ohhh, life is so hard! :mecry:

IsaacHayes said:

alberto: have you checked to see if the soldered connection on the switch has broke? I'd try that first. I know some weren't soldered well or was weak.

Click to expand...

That's one possibility. One of my switches had that problem.

However, even if the switch has broke, isn't it possible to bridge the switch by soldering a piece of wire between the two connection points? Rather like simple mod where you solder a resistor between the two connection points, turning the Fenix into a 2-stage light?

If that works you have in effect a simple twisty, and that should prove very reliable ...

Hans

alberto said:

I'm getting a little concerned about EDCing the L1P. My Nuwai QIII switch doesn't feel any more substantial, but has not failed yet. I may have to return to my trusty Surefire TW4 (E1e/KL4) or E1e/KL1 (4th gen) -- rock solid light with a rock solid switch.

Click to expand...

Same here. But ever since one of my Z57 tailcaps stopped working without warning I think I'd prefer the old twisty or one of Don's 2-stage tailcaps over the Z57. Alright, Surefire replaced the Z57, but this and similar problems reported here don't exactly inspire confidence in the Z57.

Hans

Buy a Coast Led Lenser Digi-Tac (David) and see if the switch from that fits the Fenix L1P, more reliable IMO plus a positive / forward function clicky rather than the original negative / reverse. The David itself is a quite a nice light too, I must add. (nearly the same total output with over twice the runtime)

Yeah, I only have two Z57 switches and haven't had a problem but it's not on the smaller SF lights I use the most, which have the older momentary switch (Z52?). I guess what I'm finding out, by my useage patterns, is that down-deep I trust the reliability and solid action of twisties over clickies.

Even before I became an admitted flashaholic in my Mag 2D, 3D, 4D days, it was nearly always clickie switches that caused problems.

How do Don's 2-stage switches feel? Have they been reliable? I'm almost afraid to try one, given my apparent subconscious distrust of all things clickie.

I bought three of the L1ps. One had a sticking switch problem. Warren from Lightmania promptly sent me a replacement switch. I have little doubt that there will be a day when I will have to bypass a broken clicky so that my L1p will work only as a twisty. Thank goodness for this option!
"Lifetime warranty"? What a joke! Where you gonna send these things in for repair a year down the road? China? Good luck. The retailers can only do so much to back these up.

i hope this will not be an issue with the newest batches of their lights....i just ordered one about a week ago and reallly looking forward to it. Its going to be my first plunge into this flashlight thing, i hope im not dissapointed by a faulty on/off button

Roy,

Did you get the fenix from me? I'll send you a switch module replacement.
I have a new batch of fenix's that use a NEW switch. The new switch
though is still reverse clicky has about 1.5mm MORE TRAVEL and makes a world
of difference. The old switch has a yellow button, whereas the new one has a
red one.

4sevens:

That's good to know about the new switch. Unfortunately, I didn't get mine from you but I'll go to my source and inquire. Thanks for the info though.