feedback on lighthound "G&P" surefire parts

GWC3

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lighthound has drop in LED heads for SF C2/D2 etc. Any experience and recommnedations? I have a D2 I'm considering converting to LED
 

LEDcandle

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Are you talking about the G&P Lux drop-ins?
The reviews here :-

Lux III - http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/gp_p60lux3.htm
Lux V - http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/gp_p60lux5.htm

I don't have either; I am using a Surefire KL3 (gen 2) which is a super-tight beam with no spill. I've read that the G&P Lux III has more spill and thus produces a more balanced beam than the KL3.

The Lux V is an entire head replacement and not just a drop-in. Heard its mighty bright. Check out the reviews for more info.

These are good, budget replacements of the KL3 and KL5.
 

cratz2

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I've never compared them directly but the L5/KL5 has decent spillbeam... Again, there was over a year inbetween using a KL5 and getting my TW0K-modded BOG module but I think the BOG/G&P module has a bit wider spillbeam.

The KL3 is pretty much a very tight spot with spillbeam not in the same class as the KL5 or BOG module.

For what it's worth, I've tried a lot of different combinations and right now, a 2 cell Vital Gear body with the TW0K-modded BOG module run on 3.7V R123s leaves me completely satisfied.
 

weaponlight

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cratz2 said:
For what it's worth, I've tried a lot of different combinations and right now, a 2 cell Vital Gear body with the TW0K-modded BOG module run on 3.7V R123s leaves me completely satisfied.

I used a Surefire C-2 as my main tactical light in Iraq. The BOG 3 watt drop in with rechargeable 123's from Battery station as above pretty much completely replaced the incan lamp assembly which stayed in the spares carrier. I like its throw, and beam. The color of mine is a little purple. The runtime vs the Incan is alot better. I would still keep the incan lamp assembly around for when you want more throw than the 3w gives you.
 

cratz2

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Glad to hear you're alright, weaponlight!

Yes, the first couple non-modified BOG modules I used were both quite tinted, one yellowish and one violet but the particular TW0K on this modded BOG gives the best color rendition I've ever had in an LED light. I absolutely will never sell this module.

It is absolutely outstanding!
 

Paul_in_Maryland

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Yes, the G90 high-pressure is my everyday lamp, used in a Surefire Z44 head with a Surefire orange traffic cone on my "crossing the street in DC" flashlight. I power it with a pair of Wolf Eyes 168B cells (1400 mAh).

The G90's beam is whiter than Surefire's and just as round. I'd say it has about 80 percent the throw of a Streamlight TL-3, 75 percent the beam width of a Wolf Eyes 9V. In output, it's more than a P90, less than a P91. For a 9V xenon light I'd never go back to 105 lumens.

G&P uses the same name (G90) to denote the original 9V lamp assembly (105 lumens) and the high-pressure (175 lumens). It's ridiculous! Lightound and Emillion sell the 105-lumen version. The high-pressure G90 won't say "high pressure" or "HP" on the reflector flange unless you buy the Digilight version. The cheapest way to buy a 175-lumen G90 is to order one from TradeDigit's eBay store; about $16 shipped, I think.

I also like G&P's G5r 3.6v 70-lumen lamp. I use it in a 2-cell body with a single 168B cell. Think of it as the little brother of the 175-lumen G90; same characteristics, but it draws more current and can't be run on an AW protected cell.
 

adirondackdestroyer

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Paul (or someone else who knows),

I have a G2 with a stock bulb (65 lumens), can I use the 175 Lumen G90 in my G2?
If I can, what type of batteries would I need to run it with? Also, how is the battery life with the 175 lumen G90?
 

Paul_in_Maryland

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adirondackdestroyer said:
Paul (or someone else who knows),

I have a G2 with a stock bulb (65 lumens), can I use the 175 Lumen G90 in my G2?
Yes, it will fit, and the plastic lens will not be a problem.

If I can, what type of batteries would I need to run it with? [/QUOTE]You'd need two rechargeable 123A cells (RCR123A). I can't recall whether protected RCR123A cells will work; the lamp draws about 1.2 amps, I think, so probably not. In that case, you're stuck with unprotected lithium ion cells, something I personally wouldn't do.

adirondackdestroyer said:
Also, how is the battery life with the 175 lumen G90?
I've never done a controlled runtest, but I'd say about an hour on my 1400 mAh Wolf Eyes 168B cells. No, that doesn't contradict the 1.2A figure above; the 1400 mAh rating is provided at the 0.2C discharge rate. Discharged at 1C, capacity will be less.

I feel that the G90 high-pressure lamp assembly is the default choice for an everyday 9V xenon Surefire-type lamp assembly. It's white, it's bright, it's even, it's less than $20 shipped, and you can move it to a G&P miniturbo head for better throw. If you need more brightness in a P- or C-style body, go with the Surefire P91 (and about 60 percent less runtime).
 

weaponlight

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cratz2 said:
Glad to hear you're alright, weaponlight!

Yes, the first couple non-modified BOG modules I used were both quite tinted, one yellowish and one violet but the particular TW0K on this modded BOG gives the best color rendition I've ever had in an LED light. I absolutely will never sell this module.

It is absolutely outstanding!

Thanks for the thoughts cratz2, who modded your BOG drop in? Sounds like something I would like to have done for my C-2. Sorry for the hijack GWC3.
 

Bryan

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Paul_in_Maryland said:
Yes, the G90 high-pressure is my everyday lamp, used in a Surefire Z44 head with a Surefire orange traffic cone on my "crossing the street in DC" flashlight. I power it with a pair of Wolf Eyes 168B cells (1400 mAh).

The G90's beam is whiter than Surefire's and just as round. I'd say it has about 80 percent the throw of a Streamlight TL-3, 75 percent the beam width of a Wolf Eyes 9V. In output, it's more than a P90, less than a P91. For a 9V xenon light I'd never go back to 105 lumens.

G&P uses the same name (G90) to denote the original 9V lamp assembly (105 lumens) and the high-pressure (175 lumens). It's ridiculous! Lightound and Emillion sell the 105-lumen version. The high-pressure G90 won't say "high pressure" or "HP" on the reflector flange unless you buy the Digilight version. The cheapest way to buy a 175-lumen G90 is to order one from TradeDigit's eBay store; about $16 shipped, I think.

I also like G&P's G5r 3.6v 70-lumen lamp. I use it in a 2-cell body with a single 168B cell. Think of it as the little brother of the 175-lumen G90; same characteristics, but it draws more current and can't be run on an AW protected cell.

A big help as always Paul, thanks! :thanks:
 

cratz2

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I'll send a PM weaponlight.

On the protected vs unprotected cells... protected 17500 cells work with the TL-3 bulb. When I get the cells in and light in, I'm going to try the TL-3 bulb on unprotected in a Dorcy Spyder just to see how it looks.

The protected 17500s supposedly give an hour with the TL-3 bulb so I'd imagine protected R123s would give about 40 minutes of runtime on the TL-3 bulb.
 

lexina

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Paul_in_Maryland said:
You'd need two rechargeable 123A cells (RCR123A). I can't recall whether protected RCR123A cells will work; the lamp draws about 1.2 amps, I think, so probably not. In that case, you're stuck with unprotected lithium ion cells, something I personally wouldn't do.

I run a G&W G90 on 2 protected RCR123A (750mAh) from Dae with no problem. No need to double click and run-time is about 35 mins.
 

Raoul_Duke

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Thanks, Do you think a G&P's G5r 3.6v 70-lumen lamp would work on one unprotected AW 17670.

As I would only be running one Cell, It should be safe(er)

Does this make sense?

And the only thing I have to worry about would be to turn it off when the output plummets.
 

chrwe

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Hi GW3C,

I got the 3W module from Lighthound and have a few additions to FLR's great review.

I use it in a C3. As with the G2 the bezel cannot be fully tightened down anymore (waterproofness shouldn't be affected BUT the removable clip now can slide back and forth around 1mm should it bother someone).

I found that the tailcap button is harder to press with the drop in than with the P90.

There's also a little issue with changing the batteries. Sometimes after changing them it seems the modules doesn't make contact, so you have to put in the batteries again (maybe the battery pin doesn't hit the hole in the modules protection plate).

Output, as FLR's numbers suggest, is greatly reduced in comparison to a P90. It's still pretty good (and pretty white) for indoor use. Really lights up even large rooms, great sidespill.

For outdoor use it's great for lighting up your path as long as it's not foggy! Fog really kills the modules throw. Also if you need to light up a dark road some 70 meters ahead you are way better off with the P90.

Looking into the module while lit seems to be more annoying than looking directly into a lit P90.

Conclusion: It's a great module. Those little issues aren't really any issues in normal situations. For outdoor use in unpredictable weather you might want to keep the P90 around.

Service from Lighthound is great btw.
 
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