Switches

I've read countless posts here about people having switch failures, SL PP 4AA Lux, SL Jr. Lux, Kroll problems, on and on. It seems like the switch is the one component that fails in a flashlight the most (aside from incandescent bulbs burning out). This leads to my question: why aren't companies putting more reliable switchs in their flashlights? I know most lights you buy don't have problems, but it just seems like there are far more problems than there should be with such a simple component. All it's suppose to do is close a circuit, for pete's sake...

Switch reliability is one reason Surefire uses twist tailcaps for switches on many of its lights, instead of clickies.

A switch is usually the only moving part on a light, and because of that is a component most likely to fail.

Even military grade switches sometimes fail in their intended applications (see unexploded bombs).

I've not had a light switch fail myself. And I don't know what the actual incidence of failures is - I'll bet it isn't high. Naturally, failures will be posted and talked about a whole lot more often than non-failures. I guess it largely comes down to how much do you want to pay for a switch to get 1 failure in 100,000 vs 1 failure in 5,000 (just to throw some numbers with no factual basis out there).

Yeah, I can't think of a light I've owned by a reputable company that had the switch fail, but even counting the junk lights I've owned, other than a few 5mm LED here and there, the switches are the only pieces I've had issues with.

I can accept switch failure in a $5 chinese super duper discount light, but on a $25+ light, I would be somewhat upset. As I said in another thread, it seems like someone could build a reliable $1 or $2 switch.

I do think this issue may be more prevalent on a forum such as CPF because in all honesty, we literally probably use the switch more in the first 24 hours than the average user will use in a lifetime worth of use. That's no 'excuse' but it could be a contributing factor.

I've had a lot of cheap switches go bad, like the ones in those MX-99/U Army lights. As far as quality lights I can only think of one two, and not brands being made any more.

Surefire's traditional twist switch is so reliable because it's hardly a switch. Just an solid inner tailcap that gets screwed down a little more. Great idea.

My favorite switch is still the old version crush-your-battery type twisty - preferably a front version - exactly because it has that last 0.1 (or .001) % of reliability over any clicky. Wish the Fenix's came in the same form factor as the old CMG Infinities, and maybe the new AAA version does!

I'm pretty sure the new AAA Fenix is a twisty, though I don't know if it's the "crush-your-battery" type or the Gerber Infinity Ultra Type.

i like the twist better but it always makes me wonder how it can be really water proof in the off/somewhat unscrewed position <shrugs>


seems that when things are all screwed down tight, water, dust etc wo'nt get in but then the light would be 'on'