I need help choosing a SF

I've been browsing this forum for quite a while now. And have searched for the life of me. I am looking for a led sf light mainly for poweroutages, and some outdoor work. I have a G2 and i'm thinking of getting a drop in for it, but part of me says to stick with the incan. But I want something a little brighter with a little more runtime. I was thinking either L1, L2, or A2. Throw or flood is the usual dilema here. I would like to have both, but we can't have everything... It seems to me the A2 might be my best bet. But the L2 on high can really light things up indoors. I like the L1 for its size, runtime, and brightness. (even though it's not very bright, but can be useful for certain situations) It's a shame I can't get them all. I could get a whole other light for runtime and replace heads for brightness? Help is appreciated here.
BTW: Does anyone know what the rated lumen output is for the bugoutgear drop in is?

I think the BOG 3watt drop in is close to 40 lumens. You can also get a two-stage tailcap switch for it too. http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_56_70

But I think you'll be happy with either the A2 or L2.

skrie said:

...looking for a led sf light mainly for poweroutages, and some outdoor work. I have a G2...

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For power outages you generally want a multi level light, since it greatly stretches the run time.

Good possibilities are the A2, L2 and U2. The U2 will run for 40 hours on low (2 lumens) which is still enough light for many tasks. The U2 beam pattern is a good mix of throw and flood. It has a very bright spill beam, so at close range it's almost a super flood, yet a longer range the hot spot throws fairly well. However it is expensive. Call www.opticshq.com for a good price.

The A2 is also great light. Output on LED mode is about equal to the U2 at +1 from the bottom. Run time on LED mode is 15 hr + 30 diminishing. Max output and throw is roughly equal to the U2. The A2 is a little shorter and the bezel is smaller diameter. It only has two output modes (vs the U2's 6), but two covers most of your needs.

Personally Id take the A2 or U2 depending on your preferences.

The HDS EDC series are also options at that price point. On the lowest setting they'll run many hundreds of hours. They're more compact the the A2/U2. But on max output they only run about 1/2 as long.

An advantage of variable output lights like the U2 and HDS, you can back them down just 1 level, and run time jumps, but visual output doesn't drop much. Just an artififact of how our vision works.

They're all three great lights: HDS, A2, U2. You can't go wrong with either one. My personal favorite is the U2, but they're all good

joema said:

For power outages you generally want a multi level light, since it greatly stretches the run time.

They're all three great lights: HDS, A2, U2. You can't go wrong with either one. My personal favorite is the U2, but they're all good

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I would also endorse the HDS 60 lumen models. They are fantastic lights with multiple, programmable brightness levels.

Within the SF constraints, I would endorse the L2 (although, to be honest, I've never used or seen a U2). The low brightness level gives you 8 hours, and it's fairly bright...during a power outage it would seem very bright and probably be all the brightness you need. Just in case, you can go to 100 lumens in a flood pattern, which I find great for inside a house: it lights up the whole room.

you can always add a beamshaper to your LED head...

Hi skrie!

I would recommend the U2. Firstly, its Surefire, and it uses Luxeon LEDs. This is important for one very good reason. Although SF lamp assemblies are highly reliable, Luxeon LEDs are even more so (IMHO). And in times of crises, the less things to worry about, the better. Also, in my experience, the second brightest level of the U2 puts out as much light as the G2, and at least twice the runtime. Plus it is regulated very well at that level.

A word about reliability. According to Lumileds, almost all Luxeon LEDs that fail, fail within the first few minutes. So in practice, if you put the U2 through one battery change with no problems, then it should last a lifetime (or two...).

The clickie tailcap of the U2 is another plus. Just grab and push the button and you have constant light.

The U2 also has the added advantage of being a blinding light, so it can double as a defensive weapon. The L2 does not blind as well as the G2 or U2.... (YES, I have tried on myself.......!)

Don't worry about the flood light though, the U2 puts out a very nice corona. And if you really want it to flood the room, just point it upwards toward the ceiling and the reflection should be sufficient. The L2, like Size15s said in another post, can be considered a low level light with a high-level option.

As for me, there's a reason why the SF U2 is named the Ultra!

But to be fair, here are several advantages of the L2 over the U2:
1. L2 is cheaper
2. Two levels of light are really quite sufficient
3. It is easier to manipulate the L2 to get the level of light you want (simple one handed operation) compared to the U2 when you sometimes have to use both hands (but one handed operation is possible).
4. When the U2 drops out of regulation due to weak batteries, you can only get the lowest level of light (about 5 lumens I think) and you have to manipulate the selector ring to the lowest level and turn it off and on again. With the L2, with weakening batteries, you get the first level, at least 15 lumens for about 15 to 30 minutes, so you are assured of at least 15 lumens of light anytime you grab the L2 (provided you don't deplete the batteries completely).
5. It is easier to carry the L2 in the pocket. So if you get the U2, you'd want to consider some holsters or a lanyard.
6. The "Wall of Light" from the L2 is true.

As always, try it out before you get it. With Luxeons, you need to be slightly concerned about the tint, so try different models and see which one you like.

As much as I have considered the U2, the price is well.. a bit too high. I would prefer something under $100. But seeing as the lights in that price range do not exactly fit my needs, I have to up the price range.

Yeah, Surefires are wallet-busting!

How about another G2 with a BOG 3W drop-in? I haven't tried it personally, but the reviews of it are pretty good. You can also keep the P60 the new G2 comes with as a spare.

I was under the impression that the L1 is also two-stage.. and it's low output (1.1 lumens?) runs for a very long time.

While the A2 is a great light, it's not really brighter than your G2. It will run considerably longer if you just use the LEDs. The L2 on high is quite bright but all flood. The low setting is still pretty bright too.

If you want something that is both brighter and longer running than your G2, you'll have to go with at least a 3 cell light. Even then, your not likely to find anything brighter that will run more than an hour. None of the lights you mentioned will be significantly brighter than your G2. you'll need to step up to the M3, M4, M6 to get noticeably more light. None of them are LEDs and they're (M4,M6) major $ too.

I think the L2 comes closest to your needs. It's brighter on high and longer running on low. It's also and LED which you said you liked. Just be aware that it has 0 throw (but you have the G2 for that).

I think the best thing you can do is find a stocking dealer and check out all the beams. Then pick the one that falls within your budget.

All just my opinion...

JimmyB

I was in the same boat. I've bought a couple cheaper lights, then the Fenix for my pocket, but I bit the bullet realizing the U2 is probably what I need. Reasonable throw, very bright but with lower levels available, waterproof. Mine arrives tomorrow!

Lucky. Wish I could buy a U2. JimmyB, thanks for the info and suggestion. Your opinion makes the most sense to me, and I think ive decided, and I probably will get the L2. I just wish the G2 had a longer runtime without the AN14 extension. While the BOG drop in will solve that problem, the lumen output is lower. :shrug:

E2L is a great choice...

TB