Sorry to hear about that Raggie,
A Physical Therapist friend of mine had her Cannondale stolen, the large chain and lock were cut. She was not very happy about it and replaced it with a Trek. Told her Cannondales are the #1 targeted bicycle for theft and Treks are up there also.
I pointed at my bicycle (a fully suspended recumbent) and asked her to guess how much it costs and why. She noted that there are no labels, names or any identification on the frame and most of the components she has never heard of. The only thing she could identify as "expensive" was the rear derailluer (Shimano XT) and everything else confused her.
My reply was the recumbent cost more than her Cannondale and Trek combined and she almost fell over! Then I told her the "trick" to how bike theft works. Bikes are "cased" by their manufacturer or component group. They are either stolen and resold as an entire bike or stolen and stripped of their components. The frame is junked as it is generally the cheapest part of a bicycle and easily traced.
If the frame does not have a manufacturer listed it is much less desirable and a recumbent more so. Recumbents are not easily re-sold as they tend to be unique (Imagine trying to sell a recumbent in Turkey!) The only thing they would steal my recumbent for is the components. My components are a mixed bag across four different styles (Touring, MTB, street and BMX) Then I mix the styles together to make unique assemblies that must be broken down to their parts.
For example: my front wheel is a 48-spoke 20" (406) laced to a BMX freestyle rim. OK, it can be stolen to be used on a BMX bike. Wrong! The hub is a touring Phil Wood hub with quick release axle. Most people don't know what a Phil Wood hub is but the quick release axle is NEVER used on a freestyle BMX bike. It can't take the pounding so remains an odd-ball useless wheel (unless you have a fully suspended, touring recumbent that you take off-road)
The rear wheel is a 36 spoke Shimano 105 road racing hub (markings removed) a MTB 11-34T wide-range gear cluster and a touring double-walled rim (Mavic T520) Finish it off with a kevlar-belted 35x700C almost slick tire so it looks rather "slow". It is a very strong touring wheel but touring parts are not in demand and it won't match the front for a wheelset.
The crank is even worse! TruVantiv Elita road racing crank, ISIS drive MTB heavy-duty downhill type axle (bottom bracket) mixed with 45/42/26T chainrings setup as a "half-step plus granny" touring setup (common in the 70's) Throw in Bebop pedals and the parts confusion gets even worse. The crank is strong as sin and very stiff but can't be used on a road bike, MTB or anything "normal".
The shifters are Dura-Ace barcon (bar end) "touring" shifters with a MTB long cage rear derailluer. Shimano Deore LX brake levers (no markings) to ensure they don't match Cane Creek Direct Curve brakes. The front derailluer is a road derailluer which does not match the MTB rear derailluer. Finish it off by removing the markings from the suspension, throw a rear rack, front fender and weird LED lights. Mix wheel with reflective tape and top off with dirt on the frame.
99% of the public thinks I welded it together myself and I have never met anyone that has correctly identified all the components. The beast has been giving me smiles for 7 years and has been the most reliable bicycle I have ever used.
I would love a custom made titanium recumbent trike complete with primer brown "paint" and sandpaper taken to the model markings on the components.
Recently sold my "#1 most stolen car in the US" a Toyota Camry. Got a good deal on it since it was hail damaged... all the body panels were dinged up so useless to chop shops.
Then there are those Peak flashlights... sure don't look expensive with their "non-tactical" plain look... the $150 modded 2D Mag...
Wish you lived near me Raggie, I have a nice Scott mountain bike for you (if you remove the duct tape)