Sold/Expired WTB Mint Aleph1 - 1 cell body 1000mah

I'm looking for a mint condition Aleph 1 with a 1-cell body and trim
2-stage tailcap that can drive the led to 1000ma and work off a
rechargeable RCR123.

I'd prefer HA-Nat, and for the luxeon to be a low Vf T-bin or U-bin.
- especially TXOH/TWOH/UWOJ/UX1K
(but if these are jokers, for the reflector to be adjusted for optimum focus)

I'm also more than happy to pay for someone to build the above.

I think I'd prefer a Wiz2 converter to be used as I believe the NexGen sometimes suffers from flickering between high and low settings and I don't
think the DB917 or 1000 would work efficiently off 4.2V or less from the
rechargeable.

If anyone is looking to sell a combination like the above, or is willing to build
me one, please let me know.

Nice light I just built one last night but not for sale. DB 917, TXoH, aleph 1,

Single RCR123, Vital Gear FB1 at first but switched to Aleph and two stage
switch. Very bright but don`t plan on running on high for too long. Turned mine on and walked away for a while, not a good idea. A lot of heat comes along with all that brightness. I wasn`t sure if you knew this, thought heat info might help. It is just what I wanted.
Ken

If it is your intention to build this light on a single cell body, a wiz2 is not needed.

It has been my experience that the wiz2 generates more heat than a nexgen does, and this makes more of a difference in smaller lights.

If the flicker is what you are worried about, it's really a non issue. I think that the flickering has more to do with the actual Vf of the luxeon (in conjunction with the characteristics of the nexgen converter). All I've done in the past to "fix" the flickering is to go with less resistance in the two stage switch. As a matter of fact, I believe that I had gone to 10 ohms of resistance as the standard in my builds, unless the customer specified something else. Besides, if you think that finding the proper resistance for a nexgen is troublesome, you should try doing it for a Wiz2.

You should just keep in mind that (someone please correct me if I'm wrong, it's been a while) you will NOT get 1000mA to the luxeon from a single primary cell whether using a nexgen or wiz2. I think that the most you will get is around 700mA or so. To get the full 1A, you'll need to feed it with a li-ion cell.

The only downside to using the nexgen rather than the wiz2 (can you still get these?) is that you won't be able to go with 2X123, if you choose to in the future.

With the nexgen, you'll be safe running the li-ion cell if you go with something in the flavor of a J Vf luxeon. With the Luxeon having a Vf of J working in conjunction with the voltage drop of the battery under load, the battery voltage will fall to a level that is within the overhead tolerance of the nexgen driver. I've built countless light engines for this purpose and to my knowledge none have had any problems.

Thanks for the info Chop,

Great to see you're back again.

I'd be really happy if you were able to do this build for me.
(maybe you can PM me to let me know).

I don't intend to run it on normal CR123s - only li-ion RCR123s if in a
1-cell body or a Pila 168s or equivalent if in a 2-cell body.

I would ideally like TXOH or UX1K at 1000ma with a converter that's suitable with Aleph1 Head, one-cell body and 2 stage tail-cap.

You say the NexGen converter would be best for this? So if I understand correctly, if I interchanged to a 2-cell body, I'd have to use the Pila 168s -
NOT 2 CR123As or 2 RCR123s - that's no problem since I have plenty of li-ions of this size.

easilyled said:

I don't intend to run it on normal CR123s - only li-ion RCR123s if in a
1-cell body or a Pila 168s or equivalent if in a 2-cell body.

Click to expand...

This usage typically calls for a Wizard boost/buck converter. Li-ion cells start out at 4.2 V when fresh off the charger and later settle down to 3.6 V. A combination boost/buck converter will maintain a constant current to the Luxeon despite all that variability.

And if you are using a Wizard, you will have the option of using two standard 123A cells.

If you have an relatively low Vf bin Luxeon, and you won't ever need regulated output on a standard 123A cell, then you should be able to get away with a straight buck converter like the Downboy. My Aleph 1 w/ DB917 & TW0K runs just as bright on a non-fresh Pila 168S cell as on two 123A cells. This fact surprises me a bit, since the K Vf bin is right around 3.6 V. You should definitely be okay with an H bin, though.

However, I should warn you that only one of the two Pila cells that I own actually fits inside the Aleph body. (Both will fit easily inside a Surefire L4 body.) I don't know how typical this variation in width is.