>>> Questions about Mag2C mod. <<<

I've been thinking about modding a Mag2C, but I was wondering how you fit the 3X123's in the body? I've heard of people clipping the spring off, but then how does the small round connector make contact with the batteries? Just doesn't seem right. 3 123's seem to be about 2-3mm's longer than two C's.

What do you prefer, PVC or Heating hose? Seems to me like heating hose would be more rattle free. I don't know how you would wrap electrical tape around each end though to make it fit the tube??

Basically I was thinking of 3X123's with a LOP reflector, glass lense, hi-temp socket and a 1499? Does that sound like a good combo?

I used clear plastic tubing from lowes and just cut it to length.
I believe I used a kpr 112 bulb.

Even with the old stock lense and a poorly stippled reflector there is a big difference.

It was my first mod and the best so far. The difference is like comparing a MM to a 2d or 3d light.

A good lense and reflector would probably help noticeably.

Someone else may know of better bulb also.

I didn't even have to change my spring in the tailcap. It was just a little tighter than stock but no problem.

Internal length wise, you'd need to de-anodize the tailcap cavity and put a slightly smaller diameter spring in it or just cut one and a half turns off the bottom of the original spring and use that.

I have done two of the 2c Mag (3XCR123) mods and they work great. I used 3/4" PVC from Home Depot. this is the off white color PVC and the inside dia. is .680 and OD of .880. Then I used heat-shrink around outside to take up for too small outside OD. When the tube is in place the batteries just slide down the tube. The outside can also take up by just wraping with electrical tape. The only mod I did to the end cap spring was to make the last (small) coil smaller by bending it (with pliers) to smaller diameter, then it fits the bottom of CR123. The spring pressure is only slightly more than if normal 2c cells. I have used several bulbs, but like a bulb I found at sears for the Sears re-chargeable hand held 6V latern. It is part number 34932304. This is really a bright bulb and I have long times without failure. Also, I have been frosting the bulbs by using Dremal and abrasive pad (also from Sears). This removes artifacts and smooths beam without much loss to throw. Also, KPR112 works and Browning Black Ice for 9V from Bass Pro Shops. I think you will be surprised and happy with this mod.

MadMag

I use the 3/4 inch "CPVC" -- this is the tan colored pipe for hot water. I use tape to build up the o.d. at each end so it's snug in the M2c tube. No change to tailcap or spring.

Quick, easy and not too expensive mod. Great return for the time and money. Makes good gift.

A 2D with 3aa to 1d holders is also a good and not too expensive combo. Mine has heavily stippled reflector and makes a great flood.

Lazy man's technique:

Tear off a small piece of cardboard from any box you have laying around...one of the top flaps will often do it. Reduce the size of the cardboard piece to a little less length than the battery tube, and just wide enough to wrap around once when shoved inside the tube. Stretch the stock spring a little to make good contact with the negative contact on the bottom battery (usually necessary on a 2D light). That's it. I use the KPR112 bulb also...works great in a 2D.

Did I mention it's cheap too?

I've done probably 25 mods using the 3x123 + KPR112 or KPR113 bulbs. I've never cut down the spring or removed the anodization from the tailcap. I've used heater hose split down one side, but I prefer to use PVC... Takes more work because it needs to be sanded down to fit in the C body, but if you take your time and keep checking until it's just right, the PVC stays in perfectly and allows you to just remove the cells whereas with the heater hose, you need to remove the hose and the cells each time. Even with the PVC, the 123 cells are totally rattle free because of the tight fit with the spring. I've never used the CPVC pipe but I will definately try some the next time I build one as adding a bit of tape would certainly be easier than sanding down.

The C-size spring seems to always contact just fine for me... the last couple curls on the spring are quite a bit more narrow than on the D-sized spring.

The 1499 build sounds like a good one. You could also use 2 18650 cells for a rechargeable option and longer runtime. Not sure if you could use protecteds or if you'd need to go with unprotecteds in order to get the light to kick on.

I've been considering a 2C mod too. From what I gather so far you need unprotected 18650's to light the same bulbs you'd use with 3x123's. Personally, I'd rather use protected 18650's even if it means a little less light. Are there bulbs that work with protected 18650's?

I don't think running 3x123's requires much if any spring modification. Using 18650's requires major cutting back of the spring and removing the annodizing from the tailcap if I recall correctly.

How would a 2C with 3x123's compare to a Surefire E2D? How long is the runtime?

Well, the protected vs unproteced LiON cells isn't an issue of dimmer or brighter... just any given bulb requires a certain amount of current to run at spec and a certain amount of current to actually turn it on initially (which is more than is required to run it.) Some lights will run fine with protected cells (such as the Streamlight TL-3) but some lights on protecteds, you need to double or triple click the switch to get it to come on. I've just never personally used the 1499.

Using 2 18650s in a 2C isn't that much of a problem. There's no cuttin of the spring involved... You don't use the spring at all... you DO need to remove the anodizing from the inside bottom of the tailcap and then use one or two itty bitty magnets to make contact. This is also what needs to be done to use 4 123 cells in the 2C body.

To remove the anodize, you can just use a dremel or drill with the dremel pointed grinding bit that costs about $3 at Lowes. Takes maybe two minutes.

cratz2 said:

Using 2 18650s in a 2C isn't that much of a problem. There's no cuttin of the spring involved... You don't use the spring at all... you DO need to remove the anodizing from the inside bottom of the tailcap and then use one or two itty bitty magnets to make contact.

Click to expand...

Ah, yea...It seems my 2C is different than yours in that when I use a pair of 18650's I need to use a small spring at the bottom of the tail cap. A very low profile spring to be sure, but still, a spring that contacts the endcap and bottom battery terminal. How can I retro fit in order to use the small rare earth magnets you mentioned?

When I did the C to 123 mods I used CPVC pipe in as I recall 3/4" size with tape wrapped around each end. I don't recall needing any spring mod.

On D lights I use pliers and make the end of the spring smaller.

That said, I don't use 123s much any more. Instead I use mostly AA NimH. And I'm just getting into Li-Ions...

LumenHound said:

Ah, yea...It seems my 2C is different than yours in that when I use a pair of 18650's I need to use a small spring at the bottom of the tail cap. A very low profile spring to be sure, but still, a spring that contacts the endcap and bottom battery terminal. How can I retro fit in order to use the small rare earth magnets you mentioned?

Click to expand...

I honestly can't envision how small the spring must be that you are using... In my several 2Cs, 2 18650s come about 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch from the tailcap. In one light, it literally only needs on 1/64" magnet to make contact and on the other one, two of them makes contact and stops the tailcap from fully seating against the body of the light so I use one 1/64" and 1 even smaller magnet.

My AW cells must be a bit shorter than your 18650 cells. Close tolerences for sure. I guess my aplication with the 2C comes in on the slightly shorter length overall.
My cells measure 130 mm in length on the dot.
What do you get?

I haven't measured them but the ones that only need 1 magnet are the 2400 mAh cells and the ones that require the 2 magnets are AWs unprotected cells.

No big deal... there are likely production variances both on the cells and in the lights.

Ah, I see, the cells I have are the latest unprotected 2200mah cells from AW. Perfect for a ROP-LE.
I got a bunch of those magnets with the purchase of AW's batteries, I didn't know they made a difference to the un-flashaholics.

Have you actually built the ROP 2C with 18650s or is it a plan at this point?

That is one of my very next projects!

Yes, I have. I have it in hand. It's very bright. The 350 lumen low power bulb works well for the gentry.

LumenHound said:

I need to use a small spring at the bottom of the tail cap. A very low profile spring to be sure, but still, a spring that contacts the endcap and bottom battery terminal. How can I retro fit in order to use the small rare earth magnets you mentioned?

Click to expand...

I stopped using a spring because it would drop off every time I open the tail-cap. Now I just fold a small piece of aluminium foil and tuck it at the bottom of the tail-cap.

metalhed said:

Lazy man's technique:

Tear off a small piece of cardboard from any box you have laying around...one of the top flaps will often do it. Reduce the size of the cardboard piece to a little less length than the battery tube, and just wide enough to wrap around once when shoved inside the tube.

Click to expand...

I roll my cells in one of those anti-slip mats that are usually placed on car dash-boards. They are heat-resistant and because they are compressible, it's easy to squeeze in the cells after they have been wrapped; the expansion then holds the cells in place without much wobble.

I note folks concerns over the spring issue and haven't found it to be a problem. My mags (C & D) use LEDs (EverLED's) which are able to accept either alkaline or lithium cells as the source of power. I've used pvc pipe with tape applied to the the outer surface to make the pvc fit snugly (but not overly snug) inside the mag body. I then made sure that the pvc tube was cut so that the last lithium battery fitted inside the pvc pipe protruded at least a third of its length outside of the pipe. This allows the correct fitting of the Mag tailcap and spring.
This works in both C & D size Mag bodies and I haven't had to modify the springs in any way to ensure correct contact with the battery.

IMO the great thing about not altering anything on the Mag other than what batteries it's using is the quick reversion to alkalines if needed in an emergency.

Of course if you carried a spare incandescent bulb of a different rating to the ones you propose to use with Lithium cells then the ability to revert to normal is just as easy?

Hope this is of some help?

Doug