Bike handlebar mounting of flashlights?

I've seen that many people, rather than using bike specific lights, use their regular flashlights mounted to the handlebars. My L&M Vega just broke (sheared the screw that holds the mount to the light), so it's out of commission until I send it in and get it back.

In the meantime, I'm either stuck with my old Cateye HL-EL500, which I hate beyond human comprehension, or finding some way to mount one of my flashlights to my handlebars using some method that's better than ducttaping it. I'll probably be using my Fenix L1P since I've got several NiMH AAs lying around, and the runtime is enough on 1 battery for me to get home at night.

I've read about some sort of strapping system, but I can't remember what it's called (and using Search doesn't turn up what I'm looking for). Or, is there some sort of universal mount that can clamp a flashlight inside? Whatever method I use, it must be aimable.

Thanks.

A guy I work with uses Twofish lockblocks and a VB16 to bike an hour one way to work. He says it works OK. I believe he actually uses the cyclopblock because I could not find where to find the one specifically for flashlights. I own the cyclopblock also but have not used it yet.


http://www.twofish.biz/


Good luck,
rob

The Twofish cyclopblock is available here: http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=&subcategory=&brand=&sku=3203&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename==

They work well (I have four of 'em!). A Fenix L1/2 is about the minimum diameter light I'd want to use, and I think they say that C size lights are about the max. I use two on my bars, one w/ a Fenix L1P, one with a Strion, and a third on my helmet with another Fenix. The two Fenix's are more than adequate for me to ride in dark areas up to about 20 mph. The Strion comes in to play during the urban section of my commute, and during high speed descents. I also use a bar mounted 2AA LED on flash mode, plus 3 rear red LED blinkies, plus lots of reflective tape.

Note that the Cyclopblock may not work well on all helmets--it just depends where your vents are.

There are some great bike specific light options out there, but the good ones come with a high price tag. At those prices, I want lights that are more versatile. The Fenix/Strion combo gives me that, and given that I use NiMH in the Fenix's, I don't have to buy new cells every week.

I had some of those chinese things and they broke quickly so I recommend the twofish blocks.

The Fenix L1P I use as a helmet light is on a modified version of an old incandesent system and it works OK. In a week or two my MillerMods 1.7 watt L1P should arrive and I'll see if that works better.

Later, a BAM 400 lumen 8AA to 2D Mag will be my frame light but I ride a recumbent so mounting is going to be different. The twofish block for those large U locks might fit correctly so I'll give that a shot.

Twofish was the company I couldn't think of (I knew it was something aquatic). I'll probably order up a couple of them (they're cheap!). Maybe a L2P while I'm at it. Thanks guys.

I second the quality china goods bike mount.. cant be beat for the money.. and they have mounts for weapons too which are also very inexpensive but well made.

I had heard that some of these clamp type bike mounts tended to break rather quickly. Although, I don't know that anyone was referring to the "quality china goods" version. Have use used them on a mountain bike for any length of time and how have they held up? Thanks.

carbine15 said:

I second the quality china goods bike mount.. cant be beat for the money.. and they have mounts for weapons too which are also very inexpensive but well made.

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:wave: Don't waste your money on the qualitychinagoods light clamps. I bought two; one broke within a few days of riding - I tried the spare and it broke while tightening on my handlebar. Also, they're sized so that only a 123-sized light fits in there; you need rubber spacers to make thinner lights (and even some 123-bodies) fit. The concept is really cool, but the plastic is too brittle.

Look through my old posts; I did a group buy for twofish lockblocks and the thread has lots of comments, reviews and pics that'll help you. If you get the "Lockblock" set, you'll get 3 "locks" for the price of a single "Cyclopsblock" (webbing-reinforced version). The lockblocks work as well as the cyclopsblock, and/or you can reinforce them yourself (which I did ).

greenLED said:

:wave: Don't waste your money on the qualitychinagoods light clamps. I bought two; one broke within a few days of riding - I tried the spare and it broke while tightening on my handlebar. Also, they're sized so that only a 123-sized light fits in there; you need rubber spacers to make thinner lights (and even some 123-bodies) fit. The concept is really cool, but the plastic is too brittle.

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Dammit.

I never bought one, but was planning to.
It looked neat.

I think it's better to buy the lockblocks than a hard plastic mount. The hard plastic mount can break, while the lockblocks can't. Each lockblock exists of a rubber block and 2 velcrostrips and it will work fine! I have used a lockblock to mount a lot of different flashlights on my bike : Fenix L1P, Fenix L2P, Streamlight PP 4AA, Surefire U2. They all fit fine and I don't have to be afraid the mount can break

They are indeed neat, SuperNinja. The design is nice, and they swivel (side-to-side). Too bad the plastic is too brittle.

Like Erasmus mentioned, you can use a variety of lights with the lockblocks (up to C-sized), and if you're handy with a needle, you can make straps that'll take up to a D-sized light (I did ).

greenLED said:

They are indeed neat, SuperNinja. The design is nice, and they swivel (side-to-side). Too bad the plastic is too brittle.

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Maybe if someone contacts Dae about them, he can talk to the manufacturers.

Anyone know if you can get those twofish blocks in the uk? I tried the chinese thing on my MTB, and the plastic thread snapped.

Not seen any myself Mike, but I've decided that a flashlight is no replacement for a decent HID so I've bought a Solstice (i.e. rebranded Trailtech 10W HID) from the Rush for £130 plus £5 postage and I've got a 4.8aH Li-ion battery pack and 1.5A fast charger on order from Batteryspace (About £60 from memory).

http://www.therush.uk.com/index.php?module=announce&ANN_user_op=view&ANN_id=2&dc3a4b181aae51c96006452e91f41c39=a34d3c5ab4a50558031b8601477f89cd

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2000

I suggest you just buy a bike light system, instead of mounting a flashlight on your bike. You can pick-up used halogen-bulb Nitesun or Niterider rechargable systems very cheap on eBay. They are much brighter and longer running than a flashlight on a handlebar.

Doing this is quick and easy:
take a beefy rubber band (such as ranger band) and loop it over the light towards the front. lay the light on the bar, run the band under the bar, and loop it over the back end of the light. it also adjusts the angle very easily

Hi there, the Cateye HL-EL500 you mention is the way it is for a particular reason. 1st of all I dont know about you but the last thing I need to bog my superlight bike down is a chunky heavy, non-aerodynamic flasher.

It maybe made of plastic and rubber but its to keep weight down and water out. Also you want Motorists to know your there and not to blind them with you monster flasher. For example the dipped beam in cars, its there for a reason...etc. I use the Cateye Opticube and it serves well. Would recommend you check it out!